Molly Grad's s/s2011 Gottex Collection

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY


I first met Molly Grad at Mercedes Benz Swim in Miami last year, when Lou Iacovelli introduced us, telling me she was stepping-into Gideon Oberson’s shoes at Gottex. I wondered if she shared Gideon’s point of view - that one should dress for the pool.
I was dubious. Gideon Oberson was the Karl Lagerfeld of swimwear. I wondered if Molly [or anyone for that matter] could live up to his high standards. My guess was that Molly would go for a harder, more avant-garde take on Gottex. I envisioned lots of shiny latex, something Helmut Newton-esque, perhaps. This, I based on research, in which I discovered that the Central Saint Martins grad had some beautifully edgy demi-couture collection under her belt. The collection dated from London Fashion Week 2006, but the exaggerated silhouettes and glam factor were already in place.

After viewing Molly’s first Gottex collection at NYFW, I stopped doubting.
The first show she did featured just such a Newton-esque suit, and I loved it, as did every editor I spoke with post-show. While more “modern”, like Gideon’s Gottex, Molly’s Gottex was about suits made for posing and partying- not do laps - in. In that sense, she’d succeeded, on her first outing, but I wanted more of those sexy suits. They fit the Gottex brand, but they were younger, more modern.
My wish was granted at the s/s2011 show.
The models looked as if they were on their way to a night of parties, in which they’d hop from yacht
to yacht, moored on the Pointe Croisette.
Maybe the night’s festivities would include stopping-off at the bar at the Hotel Majestic Cannes, for drinks and then finish-up at someone’s fabulous villa for some pre-dawn
partying. The music at the show, [watch video], the gorgeous red sun at the top of the runway, the done hair all added to the louche fantasy.

Swankini’s Vargas Girl Swim Suits

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
I’ve already packed the most important item for our Thanksgiving weekend get-away to somewhere warm and sunny: the bathing suit. I’m not usually that ahead of the game when it comes to matters such as packing, but I liked my new Swankini Suit[www.swankini.com], so much that it was a definite “yes” on my vacation wardrobe list. In my quest to be as the late C.Z. Guest
so aptly said, “well turned-out”, I’ve worked-out some of the matching accessories, using the suit as my anchor.
Packed-away In my Pucci-patterned cosmetic roll: a giant paste green and purple ring that looks like Verdura’s classic three stone ring, but on steroids, and butter London’s ‘British Racing Green’, [www.butterlondon.com], which perfectly matches the Swankini Suit.

I’m not usually this excited to pack for a trip to Miami. No woman really enjoys bathing suit shopping, with the possible exception of the glamazons my former boss, Michael Kors, tagged as “beautiful freaks of nature”. On the list: Naomi Campbell, Giselle Bundchen,
Karmen Cass.
That leaves the rest of us. American women’s sizing has polarized into the super tiny [sizes 0 and 20] to the zaftig size 12/14 and up. Retailers have finally gotten it through their skulls that “big girls” want to look good and so have fashion designers. There are now swim suits that flatter the woman with a size D bust, who’s a size 12/14. Last winter, I helped just such a friend put together a Caribbean get-away wardrobe. There were options galore on the floor at Macy’s. We went home with some nice one pieces that really did “take 10 lbs. Off”. I wish I’d known about Swankini when I went on this shopping expedition. I was strangely jealous. Where were the flattering suits for tiny women my size, with absolutely no chest?
Nine months later, I connected with Lois McCourt, through a friend of hers, Helen Miller, of Clarisonic, [www.clarisonic.com], whom I met and enjoyed sea breezes with while learning about the the skin care system at Mercedes-Benz Miami Swim. Lois and I started a Face book dialogue. I liked what I saw on the line sheets and told her that I wished there were something like this for girls like me, who are size 0-2 and with a size AA bust, who want to wear a one-piece - and look glamorous, minus the usual cheesy padding. Yes, I can and do, as the late Nan Kempner
did, wear tiny bikinis, but I longed for the ease of a tankini. Lois said she had a friend who had the same problem, and that the "twisted" Swankini model looked great on her. When the package from Lois arrived, I immediately picked-out the hunter green twist front halter-top and bikini brief. I chose it over the black, for two reasons. Firstly, green is a hot color in RTW, and secondly, it matches “British Racing Green”.
The fabric is of a far greater quality than what’s used for the run of the mill designer swimsuit. It was of the same caliber as the ones Gideon Oberson and Amir Slama
design, ie: well constructed and versatile enough to wear as a top with RTW pieces I owned and ones I’d seen at the NYFW s/s2011 collections. Many Miami Swim fashion weeks ago, after Amir showed me an incredible bustier he’d created for Rosa Cha, I realized the styling potential these pieces had. The next day, I wore my black and white Missoni knit wave print tankini top over a white tee shirt with white cotton trousers, to stroll down Lincoln Road on my way to the Oribe Salon.

Taking it back to the present, I set about using my new Swankini suit as the anchor to my Miami wardrobe, and started researching what else to pack in my small carry-on bag. I consulted a stylish friend, Sarah Barton King, over lunch at an uptown French Bistro, Pascalou. Sarah
resembles the late Audrey Hepburn, in voice and manner She makes a Petit Bateau navy and blue sailor tee and skinny black capris and Supergas look incredibly chic. We were in the midst of a catch-up session and inspired, I whipped the Swankini suit out of my L.L. Bean Boat and Tote bag and told her in reminded me of old Hollywood glamour, and of the wonderful black and white photographs in the lobby bar
at the Raleigh. I was stuck on coming up with a more specific reference, though. She immediately came-up with Betty Grable and Vargas Girls, and maybe a little Marilyn [Monroe]. Vargas Girls - bingo! After a quick mental inventory of my walk in closet, I decided on my black vintage jersey Michael Kors palazzo pants. Sarah Okayed that, and suggested taking it further, and playing on the popular jewel tones in the recent RTW collections. On my wish list, the royal purple pant Diane Von Furstenberg showed at s/s2011 NYFW.
Lois, Diane, and Michael have really scored a home run, in that these two outfits would look good on a woman whether she’s a size 0 or 12. With the right accessories - I just added a vial of Pink Room Eau de Parfum,
'Pour Toi' Sarah gifted me to my travel bag.The shoes and sunglasses - still to be determined, [suggestions are welcome!]. Once I get those sorted, I will be “well turned-out” for this Miami trip.


Endnotes & Resources:
Sniffapalooza takes place in NYC, the weekend of October 23rd. Sarah will be lecturing and revealing her exciting new Pink Room UK fragrance then.
The Pink Room UK fragrances are available on www.luckyscent.com

The Trina Turk swim and resort 2011 Collection Show at the Raleigh

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Prior to the show we chatted w/ Ocean Drive's Publisher, Courtland Lantaff, re the state of the magazine biz. It’s not often I have the opportunity to sit next to one of “the suits” at a show, as in New York, there’s a “Business” section vs. the “Editorial” section I’m seated in.
Said Courtland, "We're not changing the world but our book gives people pleasure and this situation is not unlike that we experienced with radio year ago, the strong will survive".
Rapper Bow wow sat directly across us, with Kimora Lee Simmons' daughter, and the photographers snapped happily away, as BW was one of the few celebrities in attendance at these shows.
The vibe was good mood retro music, which worked perfectly with the expected bright retro graphic print bikinis for the girls and teeny Euro style bikinis for the guys.
Best in show goes to the oversize leather drawstring floral print duffle and the matching floral halter dress which would have made for a strong finishing look. I wasn't on board w/ the numerous lame pieces, but kudos to Trina for piling on her accessories w/ each + every look: go girl w/ that merchandising! Don't need a suit? So what? You may want a pair of cork wedges, a big hat, enamel stack bracelets, a bag or a head scarf.

All Images of runway show, Richard Spiegel
Image of Bow Wow, VK

Fun & Sun in Oleg Skirda’s OC Swimwear

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY & SOFIA SHERSHUNOVICH


Sometimes a swimwear line is more than just another swimwear line. One example is Rosa Cha by the super talented AMIR SLAMA, who’s pictured here with model Ana Beatriz Barros at his after-party at the Maritime Hotel. To read more about the party, visit www.nymag.com. Four years ago, Amir showed me the workmanship in a bikini top he’d created, a few minutes before his Miami Swim show went off. I was stunned by the level of workmanship and detail that went into a mere bikini top.
While I’ll always love Amir, I’m always on the hunt for new blood-new talent. I sat up straight when blogger gal pal, SOFIA SHERSHUNOVICH sent me a post about a hot new swim talent who’s just gotten on her radar screen. After reading her post [I’ve posted excerpts here for you to enjoy] I’m wishing THIS designer would show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Swim. Maybe next year.

Writes Sofia: Kiev native Oleg Skirda is a purist in his own right. His craftsmanship is impeccable. Every stitch is measured by the millimeter and sewn by hand. His self-taught skills in rare French techniques are not only perfected but also improvised. Oleg has also taken it upon himself to defy gravity and give us a breast lift using only his own developed push-up cups, which he has perfected to a science. OC has two swimwear lines - swimwear and haute couture swimwear as well as beach cover-ups, jewelry, and accessories to complete the look.
Haute couture is hand-sewn with Swarovski crystals and pearls, Japanese beads, and vintage Italian beads and sequins. The design can't be duplicated, as there’s no initial drawing. The garment is sewn directly on the model. OC suits are made for fun in the sun - you can swim and even wash them without worrying about damaging precious details. "The real bikini is what Mother Nature gave a woman - her body, I'm simply accentuating her work".

To read Sofia’s entire article and other fun pieces from her fashion travels, visit www.frolic72.blogspot.com

To see more of OLEG SKIRDA’S work, visit www.olegskirda.com
*Don’t panic – there’s a “translate to English” button, if you don’t happen to read Russian.

Welcome To Miami – Kicking Things Off With TRINA TURK’s Swimwear Line

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

It’s here, my favorite time of the year, sweet, sweet summertime! My absolute part of the summer is the month of July. Firstly, it’s my Birthday month [Yes, I continue to celebrate, age, my damned]. Secondly, it’s Mercedes Benz Miami Swim Wear at the Raleigh. Even on years that the shows aren’t so great, the Raleigh is a joy to behold and to hang out at.
This year, things are looking decidedly up. One of my favorite designers, TRINA TURK, will be kicking things when she debuts her Spring 2011 swimwear collection on Thursday, July 15, 2010 – the day we fly in, and my birthday. Seeing a great collection is one birthday gift I’m ALWAYS happy to receive.
According to her PR’s press release, we can look forward to lots of yummy gold hardware on the suits. Face it, swimsuits are kind of boring without some quality hardware to add a touch of glam. There will be black and white, which is always chic, as well as some vintage inspired prints. Trina was inspired by the city of Acapulco in the 1960’s & 1970’s. It’s hard to get more glamorous than that. Back the, Acapulco was one of the international jetset’s go-to getaways. Makes me think of The Taylor-Burton VILLA SCALA - I couldn't resist putting up an image of their famous lovenest.
Trina Turk is one of those designers you should know about, so here’s a thumbnail sketch. She started designing in 1995, when she introduced a collection of contemporary clothing for women which she’s carefully grown into a successful lifestyle brand which includes: women’s apparel, swimwear, accessories and home furnishings.
We were toying with the idea of making a trip over to the Bal Harbor Shops to check out the retail scene. Now that we’ve found out that Trina will make a personal appearance in her store there, on Saturday July 17th, 2010 from 4-6p.m., we’re there, no ifs ands or buts. There’s also an extra reason to attend – spend $300, and you’ll go home with a raffia clutch purse as your special gift. See you there!
To view Trina Turk’s brand, visit www.trinaturk.com

AGENT PROVOCATEUR'S Sexy Swim Line for summer 2010

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN
Images of the Agent Provocateur Collection, Courtesy of Peoples' Revolution

One of my major pastimes as a teenager growing up by the beach in Old Greenwich, was to hit Tod's Point at every available opportunity, and hang-out with other teens and people watch. While the other girls' were busy criticizing the nearly "10" figures of fellow classmates, I was busy dissecting the bikinis and one-pieces they were wearing.
One of the most popular styles back then was the keyhole bikini halter, popularized by the iconic BAIN DE SOLEIL woman. Naturally, I had to have one too, in that same chocolate brown. Since then, swim styles have veered from the cheerfully sleazy BodyGlove to bikinis the size of dental floss to one pieces that have so many cutout that they look like a block of swiss cheese that's been attacked by a mouse family.
I gave a big sigh of relief when I took a look at the images Peoples' Revolution [the NYC PR firm headed up by Kelly Cutrone of Bravo's "Kell on Earth"] sent. For summer 2010, Agent Provocateur presents a bold swimwear collection in punchy tones and figure-defining forms. Hopefully, these are a portent of what's to come once we make our annual trip in July to cover Mercedes Benz Swim Fashion Week at the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach. *

THE COLLECTION STARS

The ‘PORTIA’ swimsuit and bikini relive 1970s glamour. These slinky black and silver wet-look snake-print numbers are made for lounging about poolside. The chic bandeau bikini top has a halterneck rouleau that can be tied under the bust or around the neck, and is paired with a ruched hipster brief. If you think a bathing-suit doesn't need to have any construction features, forget it. Only the most perfect of bodies don't need a little bit of help in this department. Both of these have inner wiring that help to create and enhance shape.

For you more tailored types, there's the ‘TATUM’ - a cut-out matte black swimsuit with a waist belt that creates an hour-glass illusion. Gold ring detailing adds further glamour and is placed strategically on the bust apex and breastbone. If you're wanting color, try the ‘TATUM BIKINI’ in shocking cerise pink.

For classic and classy vamps, there's the matte black ‘RISA’. The combination of a plunge-line bikini top and hipster hot pant make it a figure-fixing classic. The pink stitching and gold Agent Provocateur buttons are nice signature details.

If your M.O. is to make an entrance, you're going with ‘ZAHARA’. This is" one of Agent Provocateur’s most seductive silhouettes to date." This look-at-me suit has laced corsetry down the front and a ferocious red underlining. Throw-in cleavage enhancing collar-style bust cups, a boned structure and a vampy back zip detail. Yoohoo, Kim Kardashian, we'd love to see you in this one!

Regardless which style is "you", don't forget to spritz on some Agent Provocateur fragrance to complete your look. As Rachel Zoe says, fragrance really is "the finishing touch to your outfit".

www.agentprovocateur.com

The GOTTEX spring 2010 Collection -Designer Molly Grad's 1st showing

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY
Photos by Kristian Dowling, Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz

TIME & PLACE:
Monday, September 14, 2009, just before 7:30
The big Tent at Bryant Park, NYC


The suspense is finally over, we’ve been waiting since July to see what Gottex’s new Design Director, MOLLY GRAD and LISA F. PLINER put together for this debut collection. Apparently, so did a lot of other fashionistas – the big Tent was 100% full and then some with the overflow crunched into the sparse standing room.
The program notes promised “ a modern interpretation that would take a modern direction without forsaking the brand’s DNA”.
The 1st set – an exclusively white collection of graceful Grecian inspired maillots and bikinis accessorized with gold mesh ankle strap cone heeled sandals and headscarves did just that. The 2nd set of nude and gold suits and cover-ups make for easy solutions to warm weather dressing. We’ve always love Gottex’s matched cover-ups and happily, they remained part of the equation. The butterscotch patent leather one shoulder maillot is a show stopper as is the battle ship gray one, especially if you’ve got a good tan going. The paint spatter print was less effective in blue suit wise but worked well as a chiffon cover-up. The wide belts with large hammered gold buckles added some zing to the well-cut navy and black solid suits. Our favorite, the black shirred strapless suit that had cutouts under the bra and the 2 piece high waisted bottom with underwire top with cap sleeves. The heavily ornamented black suits at the end called for a full ball gown skirt or satin tux pants to go with them. Perhaps that is how the designer intends us to wear them. WE left wondering if this was Gottex dipping its toes into something new – perhaps a small evening wear collection in the future?

To view more of Gottex's designs, visit www.gottexswimsuits.com