Backstage with AMY SMILOVIC at the TIBI fall 2010 show

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN
Runway Images: courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2010
[Photo by Jemal Countess/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz)
Backstage Images: VGK-VZ & Mark Behnke

BACKSTAGE WITH DESIGNER, AMY SMILOVIC PRE-SHOW

A few hours before the show, while waiting to speak with Amy Smilovic, we fell in love with a little pleated burgundy cocktail dress that had a metallic jacquard top. Glitter has replaced ostentatious blinged-out pieces weighed-down by chunky Swarovski crystals, for the most part. This piece was in the same vein as many of the pieces in CHRISTIAN COTA'S COLLECTION.

Backstage, Amy said, "This collection looks like me". She continued, "I'm trying to take it more about what I want. The biggest compliment was when my Production Director whose been with me since 2002 said, "Everyone looks like Amy on this collection's boards."

THE FE: You have a lot of clients from wealthy enclaves such as Greenwich, CT. I'm amazed at some of the outfits the women wear while out - Merrells, sweats, Uggs..."

AMY: Yes! When you go out you should dress. I think A LOT about how I'm getting dressed every morning. I try to lead by example, I don't want my staff coming into work in just a tee shirt and jeans."

THE fall 2010 SHOW

The slender blondes striding down the runway had Amy's insousciant cool woman -[ not girl] style. Being dressed and looking like a woman does NOT mean you have to have frumpy Congressman's wife style. We're not talking about matchy-matchy suits, and panty hose or a throw-back to Babe Paley either.
Instead, Amy accessorized the collection with berry and burgundy tights paired with platform stilettos that will keep you warm sexy looking. There's a long purple grape wool jersey dress for cold days and a silk splatter paint gown that's just right for an art opening. For the big museum or Red Cross gala, wear the ballerina pink gown and little black faux fur short sleeve jacket.
Ladies, take a page from Ms. Smilovic, take some pleasure in getting dressed in the morning, and PLEASE, lose the Merrels, save those for making snowmen w/ your kids.

EMU's latest for fall 2010, The Wonder Girls, Toni + Guy haircare

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN

WHEN and WHERE: NY Fashion Week, Downtown, West 18th Street, the Style 360 Lounge space

The walk-through presentation style event was spiced up by the presence of The Wonder Girls the glam pop group from South Korea. The girls wore adorable Mondrian color block dresses in bright primary colors.
The other draw, the expansive EMU collection was shown on models staged on a platform wearing vests, coats, some knits, and of course the boots that have put them on the map.
We still maintain that Emus are better than Ucks. For one thing, there's more variety for kids + women + the ARE really made in Australia. We could NOT have gotten through this brutal winter with out our tall KINGS CROSS EMUS in "sable" that are elegant enough to wear while not wading through the snow or coming out of the surf.

Uggs have been produced in China for quite some time, and we take umbrage with them because they continue to represent themselves as "Australian". If a product is made in China, as they are, it's a well-known fact that the manufacturer is paying less to have them made - the point of going to China in the first place. Thus, the savings should be passed-on to the consumer. The opposite is true, and Ugg prices have been consistently high and are very rarely on sale.
Enough about Uggs and back to EMU. In addition to adorable booties for kids, we were surprised to see some great knits.
The bright orange cable vest makes a cute addition to the typically drab black and gray winter wardrobe.
Claudine Gumbel, of THINK PR always organizes some other interesting company booths to check out. This time, the British Hair chain, TONI & GUY had a rep on hand who showed us the 2 runway inspired lines they've just debuted. The 1st Toni + Guy salon will open in Hoboken New Jersey later this year. In the meantime, you can buy the CATWALK collections at the TIGI Academy at 61st and Madison Ave, across the street from Barney's NY.

The DOUGLAS HANNANT FALL 2010 Jean Paul Basquiat COLLECTION

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN
WHEN & WHERE: NY Fashion Week, Hunter College, NYC

The scent of the world's most expensive fragrances wafted thru the air. It seemed as if every wealthy beautiful blonde woman in New York had congregated outside the doors of the Kaye Playhouse on East 68th Street to see what one of their favorite designers had on tap for them.
Inside we took a seat on a red velvet chair in what we jokingly refer to as "the blogger section".
Dead center, front row was CECE CORD, one of the reigning queens of the 21st Century jetset holding court looking trim in a navy sheath dress.
Many designers were inspired by famous artists. Mr. H's choice was eighties bad boy Jean-Michel Basquiat.
Scanning the program we noticed lots of emerald green, and metallics on the 41-exit collection.
He took the ref all the way w/ panels of graffitti, Blondie singing Rapture"and a smoke machine. There were oversize houndstooth pieces, giant puffy sleeves, and turquoise dyed chubbies.

What we were having trouble wrapping our head around was why such an accomplished "Uptown" designer would choose to go "downtown". This was somewhat clarified after we spoke to fellow blogger, Judith Ecochard of lyramag.com who spoke with Douglas backstage. It seems he'd been inspired to create this eighties' style collection after attending a party downtown, which perhaps reminded him of being very young and participating in the now-legendary eighties' party scene.
The trick with carrying out these inspirations is TIMING - as with pretty much everything in life. Fellow designer, Marc Jacobs, took a trip back to CBGB's etc., but he did it a year ago and the crowd he plays to is more downtown than Mr. Hannant's well-heeled ladies.
Mr. H. hit some notes just right at exits 8, 14, 16 and 26. He did a beautiful job w/ the teal organza blouse and slim trouser - but in our book, that's an "Uptown look" and a bronze coat that looks great for day or evening. We also liked the new super lean stovepipe pants that only the thinnest of the "social Xrays" could wear well.
For evening, we're going w/ the black mink trimmed tux or the violet crepe gown w/ a deep sexy back. We're on the fence about the sparkly Basquiat print column gown. The art's a definite for the walls, but it would take the right woman to pull it off.

IMAGES:of the collection - Courtesy of Douglas Hannant
Images of the crowd - VGK-VZ

The Custo Barcelona "Hairy Metal" fall 2010 Collection

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN

We had a seat for this big-time show but got shut-out anyhow. As we stood in the Bryant Park Lobby watching the show on the monitor, we reflected on WHY this SPANISH brand is such a hot ticket here in the USA.
The Dalmau brothers have successfully captured and held on to the laid-back Californian style they saw on the surfers who lived in Southern California and the psychedelic look that plays in Northern California.
We applaud them for their consistency -you expect + you get: wild cartoony prints, peacock worthy color and umpteen texture combinations. We loved the paillette mini dress with cap sleeves and the rich hues of green. For him, our top pick is the black sequin or leather suit worn with a seventies' style smiley-face tee.
Overall, there were far fewer layers and an abundance of texture mixing shredded fabrics and lots of metallics - hence the title, "hairy metal". True there was a dose of black and grey but they were over the top and all shined up in patent leather treatment that kept our eyes glued on the screen.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER - the fall 2010 RTW collection

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN
Images, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week





THE INSPIRATION: "Chinese Warrior and military suits...almost soldier like."
The military inspiration was carried-over into the soundtrack, the steady military beat went from start to finish.
Texture was important from the jeweled accents on the hem, waist, shoulders and cuffs created by pleating. The embroidered tights added even more cozy luxury. Ms. Lhuillier is not afraid of color, red predominated. For day there was a short and sexy dragon lacquered mattelasse dress and for evening a number of Red Carpet choices for front row stylist, Phillip Bloch to consider for his celeb clientele. The shanghai red chiffon gown with an interesting asymmetric neckline and the red duchesse draped gown with a skirt composed of oversized flowers would make excellent choices.

THE ECCO DOMANI FASHION FOUNDATION - Prabal Gurung

TEXT, VIVIAN G KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN

WE went to Ecco Domani last night to see what the winners had on tap. There were seven young designers.

While all good, the one that excited us the most was PRABAL GURUNG, who got on our radar screen last year.
Blondes - Swarovski everywhere, the best was the 1st look on a ring maille chain corset. The rest of the collection was all black.
Prova - This accessory collection's star piece was a Mary Celeste silk scarf with gunmetal and silver. It's going to add some needed sparkle to the overwhelming amount of black and gray we've seen in RTW thus far.
Siki Im - Brought back men's skirts [yawn]. The most interesting was an ankle length Japanese poplin long skirt. It's going to take the right guy to wear it, but for the most fashion forward guy out there - a great look..
Altuzarra - Dazzled with buckles on 5/7 looks but it was the last look, a red acid washed tuxedo dress with no buckle in sight that caused our knees to buckle.
Salbor - Managed to make the black and white themes we've seen all week look new. The best - a white zebra patchwork top with a great tonal quality that looked like we were watching a TV set as the model approached us.
Organic by John Patrick - the most colorful + cohesive collection of the 7. There were bright plaids and Harris Tweeds galor. All of them seemed to build on each other and created a complete message.

It was Prabal Gurung who swept us away. He started out with a great white + black 2-tone seam coat. It's white in front, jet black in back. The 2nd look was a camel and white wool hooded coat. The two best were his two dresses, an oxidized silver stretch lace and black wool faille dress. The tarnished look made the silver look alive. The bottle green [we're saying "emerald"] green viscose draped sleeve dress is the kind of dress and the kind of color we want to see more of.

The ARISE MAGAZINE AFRICAN COLLECTIVE - PART III - the fall 2010 collections

TEXT, VIVIAN G KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN & LAURA WOOD
Saturday night, Feb. 13, backstage at the big Tent, Bryant Park, NYC

WE interviewed NDUKA OBAIGBENA and two of the three designers pre-show.

First up was ANISA MPUNGWE, designer of the LOINCLOTH AND ASHES Collection. We asked her about the unusual name she chose for her company. She was raised in the Anglican Church and chose this biblical reference [Sackcloth & Ashes] which she adapted to her own culture, hence LOINCLOTH and Ashes.
We saw this combination of cultures in one dress with a very subdued, heavily textured fabric. The surprise was the colorful lining using traditional African pattern.

Next, we chatted with DEOLA SAGOE, the rising star discovered by ANDRE LEON TALLEY. Like Anisa, she combined European and African influences in her designs. She's drawing on military and aristocratic styles from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries such as mutton sleeves and military style buttons. Within the same piece, she incorporated embroidered designs based on Masai warrior body paint. The result was a collection that was strong and feminine - just like she intended. She is very interested in expressing the newfound independence African women are coming into today.

Our last stop was the man himself who was besieged by admirers but was nice enough to give us one last interview. He spoke about his philosophy of investment rather than foreign aid and when asked "Why fashion?" we discussed how this show is the perfect platform for Africa's modern creativity and relevance today. Says NDUKA, "It's a marathon not a dash." He is determined to persevere in promoting his beloved homeland in the USA and around the world. He will be showing in Paris next.

THE ARISE MAGAZINE AFRICAN COLLECTIVE AFTER PARTY AT THE PLAZA

TEXT, LAURA WOOD
Edited by Vivian G Kelly-VanZutphen

The 3rd floor Ballroom at the Plaza was a swanky place to have a party, vaulted ceilings, the gilt, everything that makes the Plaza the classic it is.
What we walked into was the hippest party of the week at New York's most classic venue.

The crowd spilled out of the room and there was a full-on Plaza style food spread and waiters buzzing around with white gloves and silver platters, like in the old days ie: pre-recession.
CEO and Chairman NDUKA OBAIGBENA put out all the stops. The notion of embracing the aristocratic British aristocracy yet putting their own distinctive spin on it - as at the show a few hours earlier - was exactly what was going on here.
We caught up with designer JACQUES VAN DER WATT, half of the BLACK COFFEE team, who we hadn't been able to interview pre-show. He spoke of his fondness for using cotton knit in this collection as it was soft, sensual and cozy.

While we were standing on one side of the room observing, all of a sudden the stage opened up right in front of our perch and there was superstar CIARA and two back-up dancers in slashed jeans and bare midriffs and sparkly body lotion. She built up to her hit song, "Love, Sex & Magic" and kicked-off with a Michael Jackson cover.
The party roared-on after Ciara wrapped-up. They were still dancing away after 1a.m. when we called it a night.