Molly Grad's s/s2011 Gottex Collection

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY


I first met Molly Grad at Mercedes Benz Swim in Miami last year, when Lou Iacovelli introduced us, telling me she was stepping-into Gideon Oberson’s shoes at Gottex. I wondered if she shared Gideon’s point of view - that one should dress for the pool.
I was dubious. Gideon Oberson was the Karl Lagerfeld of swimwear. I wondered if Molly [or anyone for that matter] could live up to his high standards. My guess was that Molly would go for a harder, more avant-garde take on Gottex. I envisioned lots of shiny latex, something Helmut Newton-esque, perhaps. This, I based on research, in which I discovered that the Central Saint Martins grad had some beautifully edgy demi-couture collection under her belt. The collection dated from London Fashion Week 2006, but the exaggerated silhouettes and glam factor were already in place.

After viewing Molly’s first Gottex collection at NYFW, I stopped doubting.
The first show she did featured just such a Newton-esque suit, and I loved it, as did every editor I spoke with post-show. While more “modern”, like Gideon’s Gottex, Molly’s Gottex was about suits made for posing and partying- not do laps - in. In that sense, she’d succeeded, on her first outing, but I wanted more of those sexy suits. They fit the Gottex brand, but they were younger, more modern.
My wish was granted at the s/s2011 show.
The models looked as if they were on their way to a night of parties, in which they’d hop from yacht
to yacht, moored on the Pointe Croisette.
Maybe the night’s festivities would include stopping-off at the bar at the Hotel Majestic Cannes, for drinks and then finish-up at someone’s fabulous villa for some pre-dawn
partying. The music at the show, [watch video], the gorgeous red sun at the top of the runway, the done hair all added to the louche fantasy.