PARIS FASHION WEEK, THE FALL 2009 SEASON - THE PARIS STORY

Text & Images, Special Correspondent, Claudine Gumbel of Caravan
Edited by Vivian G. Kelly

WHEN:
March 5- 8, 2009

PARIS STORY

Visiting Paris during their fashion week is so exciting because you have the opportunity to see some fashion shows, go to great parties and see beautiful people. Paris is such a sexy city and believe it or not, it gets even sexier during Fashion Week. Models are running around, music is hopping and people from all over the world are in Town.

MY GOAL - to highlight a few of my Paris adventures and hopefully inspire you to check out some of the places I visited during my journey.

MY PARIS TRIP TEAM
I was very lucky to travel with the two of the nicest boys that are super inspiring and talented. My friend MATT LEVINE, is the owner of THE ELDRIDGE in the Lower East Side. He went to Paris because he was throwing a big party during PFW at LA MAISON BLANCHE. My friend, JOSH MADDEN is an amazing dj ( he got me listening to my now favorite band, THE KOOKS) and he is also my fashion buddy. Josh is also an enormously talented stylist, he just styled the KANGOL campaign and works a lot with his friend, Peter at House of Cassette (an LA-based collection).

So back to Paris….

THURSDAY- DURING THE DAY
During the day on Thursday we checked out the concept store, COLETTE. I am psyched because they have an exhibition on colorsplash cameras and other trick cameras. I run into the New York Times' iconic photographer, BILL CUNNINGHAM. He is taking some photos and looking around the store. I purchase some cool gum by this company Blue Q. They have one that is the “ze art of Frenching” Chewing Gum – Fun for ze Tongue. Menage a Mint Flavor.

We head out and walk to the Hotel Costes, the ultimate in chic, and a must see when visiting Paris.

We go shopping around. Matt and I discover this collection we love called LOFT DESIGN. The aesthetic is simple but is really comfortable and a lot of the pieces are organic.

THURSDAY NIGHT
THE IVANA HELSINKI COLLECTION PRESENTATION
We venture out to see designer, IVANA HELSINKI. She decided to have her beautifully executed presentation in a gallery. We then head over to a new restaurant that is now on my “favorites” list. I loved their vibe. It is called MAMA SHELTER. There were so many cool things to look at from these screens on which you can capture your photo. Your photo is then displayed throughout the restaurant on plasma screens. There was also beautiful beaded Masai chairs and the ceilings were chalkboard and had wonderful drawings… including a little Los Angeles in the house shout out. I captured this great photo of Matt, which for some reason reminded me of gangs of New York.


THE JADE JAGGER PARTY
Next was JADE JAGGER’S party for her fashion and jewelry collection, JEZEBEL. Jade is truly “a cool cat” and she makes some really great jewelry that is inspired by her love for music. The vibe at VIP room was electric with tons of lights and a huge video presentation of Jezebel’s campaign. To top it off the screens around the venue rolled the words JEZEBEL (with her logo which is a kiss) Jade’s jewelry was displayed on turntables and in turntable boxes. I was invited because I met her in Ibiza at a cool restaurant there – I found out that she has a love for hip hop too!

FRIDAY - DAYTIME
THE ISSEY MIYAKE SHOW
The next day, Josh and I attended the Issey Miyake show that featured some great karate moves. They had a few presentations of karate moves and the invite had little photos of people doing karate. The collection had pops of color from RED to YELLOW to PINK. We loved the hats and there were some great layered pieces. We saw Beth Ditto (who is now on the cover of LOVE magazine), Dr. Valerie Steele, Bill Cunningham and the incomparable Suzy Menkes, the writer for the International Herald Tribune. From the show we went to check out a new place called MERCI, that just opened during fashion week. It's my new favorite store. There were so many beautiful details from the red car outside stuffed with exciting colors to a license plate that had the word, MERCI engraved on it. There was beautiful artwork on the walls –a lot said MERCI in a subtle manner. They sell children’s clothes, home items, gift items, books, stationary and vintage pieces from YSL and Thierry Mugler and much more. My friend noticed that the staff all wear chucks and their shoe laces are all red. I highly recommend this store as a MUST SEE when in Paris. The other interestingl aspect was the glow of light the atrium has when you walk in because of the beautiful sky light.


Next was the PALAIS DE JAPAN. We never went in to see the exhibitions but we went to bookstore and checked out some books and we tagged their sticker wall with a cassette sticker. This place is also a MUST SEE if you are looking for inspiration.

FRIDAY NIGHT
That night we went to several places. The first was NEO, where we danced and just had fun. From there we went to LE CLUB LE BARON that is like our Beatrice Inn. It had a great vibe and great music and I am so glad I was able to check it out.

SATURDAY - DAY
THE TSUMORI CHISATO SHOW
The next day we checked out one of new favorite designers, TSUMORI CHISATO. I wanted to cry during this show because I need every piece from their collection. I am starting to save my money now so I can buy it all. . There were beautiful dresses with stars and embellishment on them and little coats that were “robe” inspired which I love to striped little capes. This collection is a GEM that needs to be rocked by every fashionable person in Hollywood, it’s THAT good.
Next up, the flea markets! You can’t go to Paris without hitting up some flea markets. I found the most exciting little faux fur but furry cape in blush pink. I also found some great dresses and a YSL jacket. My friend found the PEACOAT!! It was a French army jacket with anchor patches and gold buttons in navy with red detail. He totally can rock it. It is amazing. Tsumori Chisato brought tears to my eyes, as did this peacoat.

SATURDAY NIGHT

THE ELDRIDGE PARTY AT LA MAISON BLANCHE
So that night was the night for THE ELDRIDGE. It was going to be a very important night for my friend, Matthew Levine. He booked la maison blanche which is the hottest spot in Paris on Saturdays. It was quite the production, they asked us to check the venue out and have dinner and we ate beautiful food and enjoyed “model” company and then after we were done, the space transformed into a nightclub right before our eyes. They bring in couches and low tables and dj equipment and the space changes from being a fine dining establishment to a rockin’ night club. Matt did such a great job finding a cool spot and my friend Josh deejayed along with DJ M.O.S. Everyone was going crazy, they loved the music. I met a new friend who I hear I might be working with called CK., who was also a dancing buddy that night. Matt’s event was a great success.


I wish I got to spend even more time in Paris but I had to come home and get back to reality.

Please visit www.shopcaravan.comif have To read more of Claudine’s adventures, have a look on twitter – claudine gumbel

THE PORTS 1961 FALL 2009 COLLECTION

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Runway Images, Dan Lecca, courtesy of Mercedes-Benz
Backstage Images, VGK
Image of Tia Cibani and VGK, Simone Poggi
Image of Jane McKay from www.wiff.com
Image of Emperors from the Mogul Dynasty, www.columbia.edu
TIME & PLACE: 2:15PM

BACKSTAGE at the Promenade Tent
THE MAKEUP by MAC COSMETICS played an important part in recreating that Bollywood princess look – fresh face and intense eyes you can’t pull your gaze away from. You don’t need that many tools in your kit to get this look. In fact, it’s a 3-step process.
STEP #1: Line both lids with MAC SMOLDER EYE PENCIL [a creamy eye kohl], rim top and bottom, and smudge. [$14.50 for 0.05 oz pencil].
STEP#2: Apply lots of ZOOM LASH MASCARA [$12 for a 0.31oz tube]

STEP#3: Get yourself a tube of “the perfect nude, with a pink + cream undertone” – BOYBAIT LIPGLASS.
NOTE: *We got to try “boybait" and already have our order in!
“Smolder” is so popular, it’s temporarily out of stock on the website, but worth the wait.
ADDED BONUS – Tips from the Expert
A European reporter asked Jane what were the A-B-C’s of Picture Perfect Makeup .
The #1 problem – HOTSPOTS
Jane’s TIP: “The center of the forehead tends to have light reflected on it, Resultingly, it looks white in photos, and is referred to as a ‘hot spot’.
PRO tip – be VERY careful when applying your makeup and be sure to cover this area.”


TIME WITH TIA
THE FASHION EXAMINER: We’ve heard quite a bit about the inspiration for this collection, India, right?

TIA CIBANI: When we were researching for this collection, we wanted to juxtapose what’s going on with the economy with the feminine instinct to love, eat, and live, because that’s who we are as women. We love to celebrate, to be joyful.

TFE: Which period/dynasty in particular are you referencing?

TIA: The Mogul Dynasty. It brought structure; you see it in a masculine tailored pant and blouse, which we put under the sari, which is drapey and more spontaneous in feeling.

TFE: The pink! It’s hard not to associate pink with India, but we were thinking, “YSL fuchsia”!
TIA: It’s neon, but not neon. It’s YSL eighties, a little bit over the top, not subtle.

THE SHOW
A brass band, complete with a tuba, was positioned at the mouth of the runway and provided that spirit of gaiety that Ms. Cibani referred to in our backstage chat with her.

Although the palette was typical Ports, and as such, consisted of earthen tones, there was a good deal of gold and silver lame mixed in, as well as some black which looked good. A strong example - the black “Jama” [coat] dress and a slim cut sheath with black buttons running across it asymmetrically.
STANDOUTS: the eighties fuchsia silk sari and black one shoulder crepe sari with fuchsia detail. The mix of tailored and soft was best exemplified in a ruby red wool dress topped with a begonia and fuchsia silk coat.

To see more of Tia's collection, visit the new Ports 1961 boutique in downtown Manhattan at:

3 Ninth Avenue
New York, New York 10014
T. 917 475 1022

Additional information is available on the official website,
www.ports1961.com

ROBERT VERDI'S LUXE LABORATORY SUITE: AN OASIS OF CALM IN THE EYE OF THE FASHION TORNADO

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images of products, from respective company websites

High above the din of 30th Street, in NY’s Garment District lies the ideal apartment, complete with balcony. The apartment/showroom is at once spare, yet warm and inviting, and once there, we’re always reluctant to leave. No wonder, it’s the handiwork of uber-styist/personality ROBERT VERDI, who’s the embodiment of a gracious host.
No sooner had we walked in than a member of the catering staff put a blueberry vitamin-infused drink in our hand [Robert was drinking one himself, and thought we could use a boost].
We gravitated to the “beauty and pampering room", where we experienced a mini-acupuncture session [1 stick in each ear-lobe] that is said to help rebalance the body. We’re usually wary of needles, but acupuncturist Steve Pang, [M.S., L.Ac.] had such a reassuring manner and told us that this was a “tiny” treatment that wouldn’t cause us to have any adverse reaction..

There’s something to be said for the treatment’s efficacy. Although we were surrounded by sick people in the Tents, we dodged the cold & flu bullet, and went home at the end of the week flu-free.

To read more about acupuncture and to make an appointment with Steve:
www.stevepang.com
Tel: 917-617-8481
Steve Pang Acupuncture is located at 50 Greene Street, NYC.


GLOWELLE
The folks at Nestle were going with the old saw, “beauty comes from within” when they launched this beauty drink. We tend to agree, as if you’re not healthy, there’s little that makeup and hair products can do to disguise the fact.
AS almost-vegetarians, we’re big fans of supplements – Emergen-C [lite], Viviscal [for hair growth], Magnesium [muscle cramps], Vitamin B [for calm]. We downed a glass of the pomegranate colored liquid on the tray and took a few powder sachets to go, which we mixed into our IMG-supplied SMART WATERS for the rest of fashion week. The “Natural Pomegranate Lychee Flavor” Beauty Drink we sampled tastes a whole lot better than the frankly awful green powdered vege mix or V-8, and actually takes a bit of the edge off pre-dinner hunger pangs.

Initially, the price may see high [$42 for 6 8oz. Bottles @ 100 calories each] and $40 for 7 days of sachets @ 50 calories each]. When you amortize the cost of a tub of La Prairie cream and substitute an 8 oz. Glowelle in as breakfast or “ a healthy snack”, it’s pretty reasonable.

Glowelle is available online:
www.glowelle.com

PAULA DORF’s magic concealer
Every makeup artist worth their salt has developed one, a concealer, that is.. We’ve tried more than our share: Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier, Clinique, Chanel, YSL’s “celebrated touche éclat”.
Her MAGIC STICK in Shade #3 though really DID instantly erase our sinus-related dark circles and knock out the slight redness on our nose. It’s reasonably priced too, $21 for a 0.12 oz stick.

To order and see what other products have won Paula kudos with Allure, In Style, Jessica Simpson, Renee Zellwegger, and countless other celebrities visit, www.pauladorf.com

OPI’s “South Beach” collection
Hurray for color! While Karl’s “Vamp” is a classic, it’s a welcome break to see something brighter and more cheerful on your hands and feet to combat the winter blahs.
We got an instant lift after the nail technician at the Luxe Lab suite applied “ Miami Beet” on our hands. It made for the perfect accent to our all black look [turtleneck, leggings, coat and shoes].

Order a bottle online, www.opi.com

THE bobi Clothing “Last Call for fall” event at NYC hotspot Citrine

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Image of Kara Lusardi,courtesy of Think PR
Images of the bobi line, from www.revolveclothing.com
Designer Kara Lusardi takes this Socialite Tee line to the next level

TIME & PLACE
Just after NY Fashion Week –
Thursday, February 2, after 10:00 pm
Citrine, 59 West 21st Street at 6th Avenue, NYC

Designer Kara Lusardi was on hand for a night of fashion and cocktails at Citrine. The event reminded us of the bobi-Vinyl Vixen event we attended last March at the W lounge in Westwood, LA. As before, the music was deafening, the vodka cocktails plentiful, and a big flat screen scrolled-through Kara’s latest designs for bobi.

We grabbed Kara as she made her entrance in a gown that’s at the top of our shopping list – a navy deep V-front dress in signature comfy bobi jersey. “This gown, said Kara, is the most expensive thing on the line”.
By “expensive” she’s talking $149. We had her repeat the figure, thinking we’d misheard, due to the din at the bar, but we hadn’t.

This collection takes care of the “I need some new tee shirts to wear with my jeans and longer ones to wear with my leggings that are well-priced” dilemma. And now, the v-front gown and the other additions to the line offer a great solution for what-to-wear if you want to achieve “understated glamour” in something other than your LBD [Little Black Dress].

CELEBRITY FOLLOWING
“Who’s NOT on the list?” we jokingly asked Kara, as she have us the following names of A-listers who are bobi fans. There were more, but we didn’t jot them all down.
Nicole Ritchie
Miley Cyrus [tanks]
Madonna [hoodies]
Audrina Partridge
Britney Spears

WHERE TO GET bobi
Revolve, LA or online, at www.revolveclothing.com
Fred Segal
Atrium
www.tee-zone.com

The ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY Fall 2009 Show

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Dan Lecca, Courtesy of Mercedes-Benz

Friday, February 13, 2009,8:45PM
THE BIG TENT @ Bryant Park

Last season, the 3 page article in September W Magazine propelled this San Francisco-based Art School to the front of the line, and put it on everyone’s radar screen. There’s nothing like the right editorial, in the right outlet, at the right time to turbo boost Industry awareness. Great editorial notwithstanding, every season, AAU gains in stature. This season, it was reflected from the get go with the appearance of top models such as CHANEL IMAN, who was featured prominently in the controversial issue of Vogue italia in July. Better still, these students aren’t guilty of living in an ivory tower. While it’s a student show and they have more creative license than seasoned designers, what we saw was with almost without exception, saleable.

Below, the best from each designer’s collection.
[*NOTE: We use the term designer loosely, as many of these collections were the result of collaborations between AAU students].
THE BRITEX FABRICS PROJECT
When to wear it: When you’re in the mood to cocoon and envelop yourself in fuzziness. These looks are as reassuring as “LINUS”’s blankie but MUCH better looking! What better outfit to weather the recession than Look #3 the Boucle and lame corset dress or Look #7 the cozy gray mohair coat with a back belt?



QIANYA MARTIN, Fashion and Knitwear Design
Little knit crop jackets like these make a nice substitution for a wool blazer.

Blazers are great, but they run the risk of looking too buttoned up or bourgeois. These jackets are the softer, hipper alternative.


HEATHER HOWARD, Fashion and Knitwear Design
The long navy burnout pea coat and long A-line tree print dresses reminded us of designer Alice Roi, who was in her day, a favorite with the girls in Elle Magazine’s Fashion Dept.
wear Design


I-SHAN LIOU, Fashion and knitwear design, and MYOUNG HEE KIM, Textile Design
This duo shows a lot of promise -, the soft cream and pearl gray dresses with soft prints were refined and ladylike but the line prints gave it that art gallery chick edge.


For more information on Academy of Art University, visit
www.academyart.edu