Tobi.com gets A Whole New Look That's Definitely Worth a Look

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

UNTIL VERY RECENTLY, I WAS NOT that much of a fan of Internet shopping. By "shopping", I mean shopping for clothing or jewelry. In the past, my excursions on the Internet have yielded mixed results.
There was the red tartan plaid vest I HAD TO HAVE from Lands' End which I saw at a preview event. I was in the midst of my tartan phase and ordered it as soon as it showed up as "available" on www.landsend.com
I wore it once and back it went - it was too thin.
Sometime before that, there was the attempt to buy a "simple" one-piece swimsuit online through www.jcrew.com
I thought I had that one covered as I'd ordered several styles in size 2 and 4 - just to be sure. THAT ended up with a trip to the bricks and mortar store at which point, I gave up and returned everything. Happily, I discovered SWANKINI's mix and match bathingsuits at that low point.
[Swankini got a post a few months back on TheFE]
Maison Martin Margiela
Melly Suede Platform Ankle Boots

Recently, like everyone else, I'm fascinated by glam sites such as www.giltgroupe.com and www.ideeli.com and now most recently, with www.tobi.com
I'm proud to have TOBI.COM as my advertiser. The other sites are great, but....
I'm not knocking them, and I've bought a few smaller things such as luxury candles and towels and been very happy but I didn't like the competitive aspect of having to preview GILT the night before and competing for items I liked when the clock strikes 12 noon and the auction goes off. I belong to both but the "Sale ends in 1 day" bugs me as I'm usually just too busy to schedule this kind of thing in. What got me TO SHOP on the Internet in the first place was the notion that I could do it whenever I wanted. Can't sleep at 2a.m? No prob - start window shopping on the laptop until you're feeling productive enough to actually do some work, or relaxed, just go back to bed.

tobi's new site is a shop WHEN YOU feel like it proposition. Yes, there are sales [love those!] but they're on for a while. The biggest draw of the newly redesigned site is that it's practically goof-proof. I fell in love with two items, really hard. The first is a red and white stripe "twist tie striped halter dress" from Maison Martin Margiela that's perfect for my trip to Mexico in April. By spending a minute checking it out, I can see how the dress looks from every conceivable angle and because they even tell you the model's measurements, I can imaging how it would look ON ME.
Leslie, the model, is wearing a size small, and they even provide her measurements. Like any good personal shopper [which this site comes close to being] Tobi tells you about the designer, and provides styling tips. Not sure which accessories would work? No problem. Tobi suggests Melly Suede Platform Ankle Boots in Grey by ROSEGOLD and a Leather Triangle Cocktail Ring by HOUSE OF HARLOW.
Leather Triangle Cocktail Ring

Guess what? I clicked on those links and found that I LOVE House of Harlow and had always intended to investigate Nicole Ritchie's brand, but never got around to it. Tobi made it really easy and convenient. As some woman's bumper sticker read, "The New Busy is not the Old Busy", and as such convenience is key, critical really, when it comes to deciding between your many options.
In the end, I didn't find the stylish PJ's I'd hoped to locate on Tobi, but I DID find a missing item in my wardrobe AND it's on sale. The Matt Bernson "Gitanes Parisian Smoking Shoes" reduced from $154 to $92 are EXACTLY what I need to go with the vintage Rena Lange smoking suit I snagged for $35 at Deja Vu Consignment before Xmas.
Matt Bernson Gitanes Parisian Smoking Shoes

My only fear - that I've waited too long and someone grabbed the last pair of size 8's when I was busy writing this post.

Every fashionista has a story about "the one that got away". What's yours? I'd love to know! Share your story in the "comments" section of TheFE.
**LAST, but not least, use my unique promo code "EXAM20" for 20% off orders to all you readers who order after reading this post!!

MAD FOR MILITARY – ONE OF FALL’S KEY LOOKS THAT’S STRETCHING INTO SPRING

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

One of the beauties of being “a fashion veteran” is that I can with all honesty say, “Oh, I’ve seen THAT before” – at least another version of whatever “that” is.
TAKE THE MILITARY LOOK THAT’S ALL OVER THE PAGES OF SEPTEMBER’S HARPER’S BAZAAR. It pops u on pp. 308, 320, 396, 481, and 508. Flip through your issue or visit www.harpersbazaar.com, and it will pop right up at you. . I’M USING THE PREVIEWS I’VE BEEN SEEING AS AN INDICATOR THAT THE FALL MILIARY TREND WILL EXTEND INTO SPRING. MILITARY HISTORICALLY POPS BACK UP ON THE FASHION RADAR SCREEN IN TIMES WHEN THE ECONOMY IS IN A SLUMP. THE LAST WAVE WAS IN THE EARLY NINETIES, when I started out as a part-time PR Assistant to Michael Kors, reporting to the exotically gorgeous LEYLA BASAKINSKI.


My knee-jerk reaction was to run upstairs to my huge attic and pull-out my long black vintage Michael Kors coat. I still have and cherish it. The long sweeping coat was the first important piece I received as part of my clothing allowance while I started there, at the West 24th Street Studio, around the corner from the infamous BILLY’S TOPLESS. After mulling it over, I brought it down to take to the dry cleaner’s and started trying to figure out how I could make it current.
For inspiration, I scanned the PEOPLE’S REVOLUTION preview pics for the upcoming s/s2011 NICHOLAS K Collection. Designer Nicholas Kunz, will be showing a “strong utilitarian inspired collection [which] takes on a rugged but avant-garde military vibe infused with dusty, earth color tones and a modern spin on classic looks.” Ms. Kunz’s latest effort implements a military color palette of rich army greens and browns, creams and navy blues. She updates it by adding striped checks and combinations such as woodland and fog camouflage. Little touches like the smoke colored aviator glasses and the high heeled lace-up booties help make a statement. The olive drab outerwear she'll be showing at her LINCOLN CENTER SHOW at the MERCEDES BENZ S/S NY SHOWS highlights the MILITARY FEEL of her spring collection. FEEL IS THE KEY HERE. JUST AN ELEMENT OR TWO WILL DO IT. Ms. Kunz's collection is interesting because it suggests that we'll be moving into UTILITARIANISM. If there were ever a time to be practical, this is it. Pundits and experts on www.cnbc.com are now predicting two more years of recession.

This is NOT a combat boot moment, which is a little scary, and too literal by far. You do NOT want to look as if you belong in the cast of the 1981 German Art house flick, “Das Boot” from the early nineties. THE SOLUTION TO UPDATING MILIARY LIES IN FOCUSING ON BORROWING THE COLORS ASSOCIATED WITH MILITARY. Michael Kors hits squarely on it with a soft olive sweater and skirt in his fall 2010 collection show accessorized with little cashmere cap and sexy brown leather sandals. Your take on military COULD BE A GREAT SHOE, LIKE THE CUTOUT CESARE PACIOTTIS FEATURED ON p. 508 of Harper’s Bazaar, or OLIVE AND BRONZE NAILCOLORS, IF YOU’RE THE CAUTIOUS SORT.
If you’re stuck for ideas, have a look at www.netaporter.com.
They’ve joined forces with Harper’s to teamed up to bring you some must-haves items, many retailing for under $500.
THE BOTTOM LINE: TRY FOR A FEMINIZED VERSION OF THE LOOK.
Atten-hut!

CLOGS - THE CLASSIC LIVES-ON, PERFECT FOR STOMPING DOWN THE RUNWAYS OR JUST AROUND THE HOUSE

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

There they were – in the DÉJÀ VU Designer Consignment Shop, in Portchester, NY – of all places. I’d dreamt of owning a pair years ago, while serving as Michael Kors’ PR Director, way back in the mid- Nineties. ASHLEY KENNEDY, then my newly minted intern, came in on her first day wearing a burgundy red pair. Ashley had wonderful accessories, so it wasn't a huge surprise when a few years later, she scored a job as Accessories Editor for Elle Magazine.
I was in love with her patent leather clogs, with gold tone nail detail and the classic Gucci Horsebit. I walked home that night, marveling about this guy no one had ever heard of – TOM FORD – who had just officially taken over as Design Director for Gucci. Here was true genius, someone who had made the dorky clog into something I couldn’t peel my eyes off of.

There have been other clogs in my life since then – camel brown DANSKOS - UNBEATABLE AFTER BUNION SURGERY[I've had two], and the OKABASHI red ones I now wear when I want to treat myself to a little reflexology. They also get top marks as a cute alternative to bulky rain boots when it’s gross and wet out and you want to keep your feet dry. Okabashis are made in the good old USA, in Buford, Georgia. They're reflexology-based [but don't hurt like the Adidas Adissage sandals - 20 minutes max in these for me, thank you]. Okabashis are endorsed by the American Chiropractic Association, BUT ARE MINUS THE FRUMP FACTOR THAT USUALLY GOES ALONG WITH THAT ENDORSEMENT. If you think rubber shoes get smelly, that's not a concern, Okabashis are anti-microbial. Just throw them in the dishwasher, and voila! They're sanitized. They're guaranteed for 2 years, and when you're done, they're 100% recyclable.

THE BOTTOM LINE: OKABASHIS= FASHIONABLE + AFFORDABLE RECYCLING.

A clog discussion would be incomplete without mentioning the ONCE UBIQUITOUS CROC CLOG. I understood their appeal for the Elementary School Crowd, but Adult Women [non-nurses]? Shame on you for wearing these ANYWHERE other than while you're gardening. I can't think of anyone who would voluntarily wear these "Croc Bermuda" pair that resemble Laura Ashley sheets from the early eighties. CROCS have since diminished in popularity and I laughed out loud when I saw their kiosk at the Mall, right next to the Pet Rock Stand. Like in real estate, a BIG FACTOR OF A SUCCESSFUL RETAILER IS LOCATION. WHO ARE YOUR NEIGHBORS? Pet rocks that glow in the dark? How unfortunate. One last lash-out concerns CROC'S BRAZEN BRAND-EXPANSION, NAMELY RIDING ON THE COATTAILS OF OLD SUCCESSFUL COMPANIES SUCH AS KEDS. Why would I buy Croc's knock-off version when I can get the real deal at Keds?


Back to the Guccis. Today, I finally added THOSE VINTAGE PATENT LEATHER GUCCI CLOGS to my designer shoe collection. I’ll be proudly stomping around Lincoln Center and Milk Studio, doing the rounds in my black pair while running around at the upcoming NY Fashion Week, reporting for www.thefashionexaminer.blogspot.comSadly, Tom Ford no longer designs for Gucci, but TOM IS ONE OF THOSE RARE DESIGNERS WHO CREATED A CLASSIC. HIS GUCCI CLOG GOES TO SHOW THAT A TRUE CLASSIC IS ALWAYS SOMETHING WORTH INVESTING IN, AND LOOKS AS GOOD TODAY AS IT DID OVER A DECADE AGO.
IF WE'RE REALLY LUCKY, THIS SEASON, WE'LL BE TREATED TO A NEW "GOTTA HAVE IT" CLASSIC, THAT SOME YOUNG UNKNOWN HAS ON TAP FOR US AT THE UPCOMING COLLECTIONS. STAY TUNED.

George Esquivel's Exquisite Handmade Shoes for Men AND Women

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY & LAURA WOOD
Images, Richard Spiegel

DAY TWO - 240 West 35th Street, the Garment Center, NYC


Designer George Esquivel's exquisite hand crafted shoes, are a hit with an elite clientele including high-profile celebrities. His reticence in bragging about his celebrity clientele goes against the S.O.P [standard operating procedure] of designers and their publicists shouting out from the rooftops who their famous clients are. This designer is refreshingly discreet on the matter.

Esquivel shoes are for the in the know crowd who truly appreciate
quality workmanship. Mr. Esquivel hand polished and treats each pair of shoes, spending an average of 6-8 hours perfecting a pair. He starts with "nude leather", which is the same leather Louis Vuitton uses for its straps.

The couture-like experience continues when you go to the salon to purchase a pair. We liked the description of his LA store/salon on 3rd street, behind Beverly Center. which sounds delightfully genteel.

COLLABORATIONS play a big part in Mr. Esquivel's business.
Esquivel works well with others. Although he's only in his 2nd year of
wholesale, this season he has collaborations with Zero+ Maria Cornejo,
Timo Weiland, Loden Dager, Antonio Berardi and Juan Carlos Obando. The thigh-high lace-up shoe covers he did for Juan Carlos Obando were sheer genius. Okay, it took 45 minutes to get them on the models, but sometimes you DO have to suffer to be beautiful and sexy.

AN ADDED PLUS: these shoes are made domestically.
Price point
men's - $600-900
women's - $700-2000

KEDS – THERE’S NOTHING LIKE A CLASSIC!

BY VIVIAN G. KELLY-VAN ZUTPHEN

LIKE THE INIMITABLE “COUNTESS LOUISE ESTERHAZY, AKA JOHN FAIRCHILD, as of late, we’ve found ourselves nostalgic for the golden oldies. Our G.O. list includes: KEDS [in navy blue canvas], Chanel No. 5, Docksiders, skinny wale cords, Adidas track suits, emerald cut diamond rings and oval sapphire rings.

At the top of the spectrum is Grace Kelly’s spectacular engagement ring from HARRY WINSTON. Prince Rainer proposed with the 12 carat emerald cut diamond ring with two baguettes, mounted in platinum. The ring makes an appearance in the movie “High Society” which Grace starred in that year.
Quality, does NOT have to be expensive though. We got the ring of our dreams – a 4 ½ carat Ceylon sapphire ring, mounted in 14k white gold with 2 tiny diamonds flanking it for under $500. The real savings was the stone – found in a jewelry store in Puerto Vallarta for a whopping $92 US.
That though, was the find of a decade.
KEDS- A CLASSIC YOU CAN GET - NOW
Most accessible though are those iconic KEDS. We’ve been wearing ours 5 days straight since they arrived on our doorstep. They’re repped by NY PR powerhouse, LAFORCE + STEVENS.
We’ve picked-out some of our favorites for guys and girls. Amazingly, none of them will run you more than $60 this spring. They even have a customization program in which you can design your own shoe. For you eco-minded fashionistas, you can pick from their eco line. With that kind of choice and price-point AND the fact that “BELLA” of the TWILIGHT series wore them in “Twilight” and “New Moon”, it’s only a matter of time until you’ll start seeing them on every tweens’ feet come this spring. Who knows? They may replace the much more expensive ubiquitous UGGS.
We’re keeping our fingers crossed.

Keds – A little History
In 1916, Keds created an American Classic: the first shoe with a soft rubber sole and coined the term "sneaker." This original sneaker, called "the Champion" has remained a style icon for over ninety years and a fave of style icons Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Jackie O. Today, a new generation such as “Bella” has discovered the Keds brand.
ABOUT PRO-Keds
PRO-Keds is the shoe you wear when you're BBQing in the backyards and dropping in on a pickup game. The PRO-Keds classic Royal comes in both canvas high and low tops, and features a red and blue power stripe on the midsole - the unmistakable PRO-Keds signature.
To learn more about Keds, visit the official website, www.keds.com

Accessories Lust: FINSK shoes at the Ports 1961 S/S 2010 Show

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY

We've been Ports 1961 fans since the beginning, when Tia Cibanni showed in the loft where she'd end up having her showroom at 601 West 26th Street.
What keeps drawing us in are of course, the beautiful clothes that appeal to our boho spirit and the off the charts accessories that are the result of that season's particular collaboration.

For spring, all anyone's talking about, it seems, are shoes. Many of the shoes in question were not meant for walking but rather for talking [about].
Squarely in this category - JULIA LUNDSTEN's FINSK label shoes that had heads swiveling back & forth to have a better look when they teetered down the Ports runway.
WHAT'S SO SPECIAL -
For starters, Manolo [as in Blahnik] is a fan, so much so that he didn't stop at calling Ms. Lundsten's creations, "exquisite, divine, & perfect". He awarded her the Manolo Blahnik Award 2 years running. On her trophy shelf also sits the Young Designer of the Year Award from Finland.

Awards aside, the genius of her design finds its inspiration from nature and structures found in natural architecture. Most interesting are the HEELS, many made from sustainable exotic hardwood.
Whether you want them as objets d'art or are brave enough to wear them, you'll be wanting a pair this spring.

Photo Credits
Images of shoes,from FINSK at FINSK
Image of Julia Lundsten, from www.designfinland.blogs.com
To view additional images, visit FINSK on Facebook.

REQUIRED READING: THE TOWERING WORLD OF JIMMY CHOO

TEXT, VIVIAN G. KELLY
The Tagline on the front cover of Crowe and De Rosen’s book says it all, “A glamorous story of power, profits, and the pursuit of the perfect shoe”.

LAUREN GOLDSTEIN CROWE and SAGRA MACEIRA De ROSEN really delivered the goods with this page turning tale, only it’s not a fairy tale – but a real life cautionary tale that should be required reading for any designer, new and old.

PLOT SUMMARY

Jimmy Choo [a real person] was a graduate of the prestigious Cordwainers school, who toiled in obscurity in a tiny workshop in London’s East End. All that changed when then-Voguette, Tamara Yeardye [later, Mellon] discovered him and made him a star. The book digs and paints a sometimes less than flattering portrait of the principal players. “By 1995, the partying was getting to be too much for her. Tamara was more often than not walking into Vogue House with a hangover. In May 1995 she resigned her position at Vogue and packed herself off to a rehab facility. … Six weeks later Tamara was back in London committed to a new business idea sh had devised. One of the first calls she made when she returned was to her favorite shoemaker – Jimmy Choo.” [p. 11].

The authors hold you captive – they did their research and no one is safe from their scrutiny – including Jimmy who is not the victim he tried to convey he was to the press. Neither is Tamara the wicked witch of the West. If nothing else, The Towering World of Jimmy Choo is a lesson in the old adage, “business is business”.

Knowing the background of this brand will give you a whole different outlook when you’re shopping the new H&M – Jimmy Choo Collection that opens Saturday, November 14th. There’s a whole lot more to this brand than knowing that “Carrie” from Sex & the City likes to wear Jimmies.

The Towering World of Jimmy Choo is a Bloomsbury Press Publication, hardcover $26, is available on amazon.com

Be & D – the new handbag and shoe collection – spring 2010

TIME & PLACE: Friday, September 11, 2009, 1:00p.m.
35 West 36th Street – the studio/showroom/factory
To clarify, Be & D = Designers Be Inthavong and Steve Dumain.
The intoxicating smell of expensive leather hits you when you get off at the 10th floor at the West 36th Street showroom [the workroom is right there, in the back].
The first thing we spotted was the black grommet GARBO bag which started the Be& D craze @ 4 years back. Clients range from wealthy society ladies and their teen daughters to household names of starlets who make the pages of IN TOUCH on a weekly basis. Most recently, GOSSIP GIRL'S Serena (Blake Lively) is seen carrying the same Be & D Cosette satchel in Green Python (below), $1490, which you can pick up exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue.

TOP STYLES FOR SPRING
About ½ of the styles are made from lamb, and there’s some washed denim – a continuation of the mixed media program from the beginning.
Steve was on hand to preview the collection to the press and launched right into the trends. He jumped nimbly from editor to editor in the small showroom highlighting some of his latest styles as the editors kept piling in.

TOP TRENDS FOR SPRING

#1.The return of the bucket bag
#2. The fanny pack
#3.The twist hobo
#4. The little black square bag with a silver chain that “reminds me of the Alien movies in the eighties”.
#5. Faded Denim. Don’t even think eighties distressed denim this is as Rachel Zoe would say, “on a whole other level”. This denim is soft and has a soft cloudlike quality to it.
The bags have a sculptural quality, which is explained by the fact that Steve studied sculpture before he teamed up with Be and got into handbags. We loved them all but our fave was the WOODSTOCK bag in elephant gray a style carried over from spring ’09.
Another great pieces is the relaunched Garbo tote pared down for spring/summer with the big nickel studs on the sides.

FE: What’s your biggest selling point?

STEVE: My concept was to make luxury that was serious but still really light-hearted and fun. I don’t ever want someone to feel stodgy about their fashion.

FE: Who’s wearing you? What’s the line’s big strength?

STEVE: Women 18 – 80. We’re very tactile – it’s either super soft or super bumpy.
My background is in sculpture, international finance. I lived in South America and created vintage luggage.

FE: We haven’t had a chance to meet Be. What is his role?

STEVE: Be comes from a family who made silk in Laos for 20 years. He came here when he was 10. He did jewelry with his mother, and worked in textile design. The family was selling silk to Loro Piana.
We started 5 ½ years ago out of our loft in Brooklyn. We were literally shipping Bergdorf out of our loft, no elevator!

FE With your background, it sounds as if you have the business side covered.

STEVE: My dad covers that and so does Be’s.


NOT JUST BAGS, the SHOES and BELTS
There are the “butta soft” shoes in everything from flats to neutrals, some of the best with the house’s now-famous grommet work.
The shoes are made in Italy, this season is the first time there’s a shoe cruise collection.

The belts in Steven’s office caught our eye and we left proudly wearing our new Hermes orange skinny belt that we renamed “the Cartier Love bracelet” belt.

COLLABORATIONS
Steven enjoys a good collaboration and he and Be have teamed up with some of the best in the business.
Past collaborations include: Diane Von Furstenberg and Ruffian. Going forward, there are projects with Doo Ri and Rachel Roy. We look forward to seeing the results!

To view more styles from Be&D, visit www.beandd.com