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I'm in the midst of moving over to WordPress.
Today's post on what I'd like to see at today's Oscars, www.thefashionexaminer.wordpress.com

See you there!

Mark Indelicato aka “Justin Suarez” of Ugly Betty was backstage at Duckie Brown

Text, Vivian Kelly

Mark Indelicato aka “Justin Suarez” of Ugly Betty was backstage at Duckie Brown, gamely posing for the photogs and video crews who pounced on him once they realized who the slight extravagantly dressed boy was.

Mr. Indelicato is a perfect example of someone [man or woman – does it even matter?] who “does his own thing”. He looked great, but what he was wearing would have looked just as good on a woman, the right woman, one who is secure in her own style.

This is pretty much the point. Why can’t a man wear women’s clothes and vice-versa? Duckie designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver ponder the question in our pre-show interview, which will run next week.

In the meantime, here’s a short clip of Mark Indelicato talking about his personal style and his thoughts on Duckie Brown.

The Nautica fall 2011 Presentation

TEXT, Vivian Kelly

Interview with Menswear Editor, Mark Behnke of www.fashiontribes.com

When it comes to mens’ fashion, Fashion has always suffered with being labeled “elitist”, “not for the regular guy” or “too edgy”, and even “scary”.

Normally, during NYFW, I’m drawn to just such “directional” collections such as Duckie Brown’s [a big favorite], Andrew Buckler, and Siki Im.

This season, though, I decided it was time to be more “democratic” and see just what bigger consumer brands such as Nautica were proposing men wear in 2011.

As I walked the crowded show space with Mark at the Lincoln Center Library, I was reminded of a long-ago Christmas in the early nineties.

I’d just returned from Neiman Marcus and with a pair of Gucci horse bit loafers for my conservatively minded first husband.  While in the thrill of the luxe buy, I’d reasoned to myself that they were “traditional” and that he’d approve.

I Was Wrong. Sad, but not really understanding WHY he wasn’t thrilled to receive them, I returned them on Boxing Day.

His explanation: He loved his Top Siders, always would and did not want to be “fashionable”.

My EX is one of legions of affluent guys who “want to look nice” but are not interested in clothes that would make them “stick-out” on the golf range, on a sail, sporting events, or Friday night poker night with the boys.

Nautica is a great choice for men of this ilk.
#1: It's no hassle- just go to Macy’s and you’re out in less than 20 minutes and back pursuing your leisure time activities.
#2L  Fit – nothing skintight here that requires you to be a gym rat in order to fit into the more avant-garde brands. Asparagus silhouette not required.

3.     #3: Traditional designs and themes. As Mark points out in our video, there’s a nautical theme that appeals to the traditional guy, and “safe” neutral colors.

None of the above is true if you happen to be a liberated metro-sexual type such as  Mark, whose morning grooming lotions and potions rival the most “high-maintenance” woman’s. And that’s great! It’s probably “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy” that’s responsible for “regular guys” to start thinking in a more “directional” fashion and to consider fashion lines such as Duckie Brown, Buckler and Siki Im.

*The pre-show interview with the Duckies goes live here next week!

Casting Call! Duckie Brown Casts for their fall 2011 Show

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

So what’s a real live model casting like? Like one for a big NYFW show such as Duckie Brown?

It’s been a while since I attended a big show casting, the last one was one I did somewhere around 2000 for Searle, when said brand was trying to become a player at NYFW.

I wondered if model casting would be tremendously different so many years later. I got to find out when Daniel and Steven invited me to sit –in on a day of their 2-day casting.

It’s not. The casting Director, Claire, took polaroids of the models who had been invited in [@ 80 on day 1 of 2 daysworth]. The model was asked to walk down and back as if they were on the runway. If that went well, they were asked to try on an oufit. It’s a process, yes, but a lot of it is intuitive.

I asked Daniel the “What are you looking for?” question.

In response, he  stated, “We’re looking to cast whomever makes the look look best.”

Simon made it to the point where he walked twice, was asked his shoe size and to try a few outfits on.

At the end out of day 1, the Duckies had around 15 candidates. Said Steven, “We’ve got about 15 we like so far, the trouble is to sew them in together so that they all work together for the show.”

Shortly after my post-lunch arrival, Grant Woolhead, the stylist walked in and conferred with the rest of the group. Grant is Fashion Director of Out Mag, and this is the sixth season he’s working with the Duckies, helping them to cast their show.

As Steven pointed-out, not only does the model have to “work” individually, he has to fit in with the group. There are levels upon levels of casting hurdles to jump before a model makes the final edit and is one of the lucky few to walk the show.

Then there’s the walk, Daniel – “You have to have a mission. You have to work on it. Walk like you’re going to go cash-in a 15 million dollar check.” Simon left, vowing to practice his walk all night.” Shaking his dark head of hair out of his face he said, “Yeah, this is for me. I’m doing it for me.”

The Debut of Ports 1961 - Men's - Classic and Suave Debuts at Milan Fashion Week

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Yes, we're STILL in a recession, but some companies are not just "staying the course" as George W. [Bush] was wont to say, when faced with crisis. Duckie Brown is launching a women's line and their collaboration with Florsheim is expanding and there are other partnerships with big brands on the table. Michael Kors continues his push for world domination, following in the footsteps of Ralph Lauren. Ralph has opened a fabulous store to end all stores in NYC.
Most recently, one of my favorite "smaller" brands, Ports1961, is venturing into menswear. Ports holds a special place in my heart, ever since I attended their first small presentation in a studio in The Forbidden Zone [somewhere in the twenties and ninth or tenth Aves.] years ago. My friend, Mimi Liebeskin [one of the most chic women I've ever met] and I declared ourselves "in love" after the shortie presentation was over. Why? Because we both travel - a lot - and could imagine ourselves wearing every single one of these classic with a twist pieces, many in flattering neutrals in interesting fabrics.
Since then, the Cibanni sisters have stuck to their original aesthetic but have also taken risks - which I love - and is something that is normally reserved for "avant garde" collections one sees on the Paris runways.
One of the best was the "Patti Smith Collection" a few seasons back. Bingo. It was arty, intellectual and cool, like the chanteuse herself.
Ports debuted their PORTS 1961 Menswear Collection in Milan this month.
When Simone of Atelier PR sent me the announcement and pics of Ports1961 mens, I was initially stunned at how, well, "square?" the guys looked in their precisely cut suits and coats. Then, I "got" it. The men are a foil to the more adventuresome Ports women and there ARE some fundamental similarities when you start looking more closely.
Part of Ports1961's [women's] underlying DNA is its classic wearability. As PR Director, Tony Alcindor told me, "We try to make pretty clothes that women want to wear." It SOUNDS so simple, but it's not, really, but every season, despite some more avant garde inclinations, there are ALWAYS pieces that will find a long-term home in a woman's closet. Every spring, I eagerly take out my lipstick red zip front cotton sweater and celebrate the start of spring and not needing to wear a coat. In fact, it's already been packed for my April Puerto Vallarta trip.
Taking the conversation back to men's, this line is a collaboration between designers Fiona Cibanni and Ian Hylton. Ian's "a name" in the fashion biz, but I had to do a little research. Turns-out, Ian is THE EVERYTHING MAN. He's a merchant, creative director and designer. He started out in 1985, helping to launch Club Monaco later-on, helped to "re-invigorate" the Men’s business and to develop a brand extension for home called Caban. From there, he worked with Saks Fifth Avenue and launched Suede magazine. As Vice President of Ports International he's now flexing his creative muscle with Fiona for Ports Men's.

Ports1961 Menswear DNA:
Classical sculpture is at the core as is "the finest Italian tailoring and the most advanced fabrics to achieve the highest level of luxury. This collection reflects the quintessentially modern need to maintain an enduring classicism in today’s world."
The press release says it best,
"This season, Ports 1961’s menswear throws down the gauntlet to declare: from now on, only the best of everything...is good enough."
Who can argue with that?

DUCKIE BROWN s/s2011: Fashion Vs. Clothes, Post #1

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY


My interview with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox got me thinking about an issue that is terribly important to the fashion community – fashion vs. clothes.
How then, does one make the distinction? I decided to base the rest of this fashion week asking designers what THEY think.
First-up: Duckie Brown's Daniel Silver and Steven Cox.

Although Daniel and Silver work together brilliantly to produce season after season of clothes that continue to inspire us AND SELL, they are divided on this issue.

Blame it on the Fashion Calendar.
The two designers disagreed over the question I posed pre-show backstage. Waving the thick sheaf of pages at them I volleyed a barrage of questions at Daniel, “Why is the FC so crowded? Is it good or bad? Who are you hoping will buy your designs in this time of economic turmoil?”
Although I directed the query at Daniel, Steven was listening and also jumped into what resulted in a lively conversation on this topic.

DANIEL: What we’re seeing here [pointing to the FC] is the democratization of fashion. It’s become a media circus. There’s a tidal wave of bloggers and designers; everyone can do it and everyone has a chance, it's very democratic.

STEVEN: I disagree, call me a snob, but fashion should be aspirational. There’s sportswear, and there’s fashion. Think back to those shows at Dior, in the fifties. Entry was limited only to the select few, and there was a sense of ceremony to the whole thing, versus what we have now - which is this. And, by the way, that’s the most interesting question we’ve been asked this morning.

One thing they both agree on is that they [Duckie Brown] make fashion, not sportswear and they do NOT like to be compared to multi-billion dollar sportswear khakis that knock-out uninspired khakis season after season.
Does this though, mean that by taking the road less travelled, that they won’t make any money?

Says Daniel, “When people ask me how we’re doing, I tell them, ‘Well, we’ll still here, and we’re still in business’.”

As far as knowing who their customer is, they’re crystal clear on that point. As my former editor, Jim Zebora, now the Regional Business Editor for Hearst, posited, the Asian Market is hungry for and appreciates fashion.
Continues Daniel, “The Japanese have saved us. Going back to the question regarding the overly crowded show schedule, what’s interesting is to know who on that list will still be here in nine years.”

As Daniel and Steven promised, we came to see fashion, and fashion is what we saw. Presentation is part of the packaging that makes it fashion not just a bunch of clothes buyers are deciding they will or won’t buy.
Upon entering the show venue, I was confounded by the empty bleachers that made up an entire half of the show venue. A FULL ONE HALF of the venue was occupied by empty bleachers, replacing seats and leaving many fashion hopefuls outside in the standing line having to content themselves with watching this remarkable show on the HD Screens in the lobby.
The models walked down the runway and then went and posed on the bleachers. This blatant “waste” of space was as effective a device as when fashion companies buy ad space in hyper expensive glossies and then use one of the pages as pure white space. IT’s a colossal gesture and an effective one.
In the case of the Duckie Brown show, it was particularly jolting as only 15 minutes earlier, Daniel had told me that they’ve “never had the flood of requests [they] were inundated with this season.”
That aside, it was the best of both worlds, a runway show and presentation wrapped into one. The clothes are for the man who wants to be on the razor’s edge of what’s cool. That translated to easy dove gray long shorts, blousy tops, linen tunics and some ikat print pieces and a flash of color as in a bright green pant. Gant, Tommy or Nautica, it’s not.

NY FASHION WEEK PREVIEW: THE MEN’S SCENE – WHAT ARE MENSWEAR DESIGNERS THINKING?

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Ever since QUEER EYE FOR THE STRAIGHT GUY hit the airwaves on the Bravo Chanel in 2003, designers have had some preposterous ideas about how men should be dressing.
After reading ABE GURKO’S post on www.imeanwhat.com, I’m wondering WHY talented designers such as BERNARD WILHELM and CONSUELO CASTIGLIONI FOR MARNI show styles that make a guy look as if he’s auditioning for a remake of one of MEL GIBSON’S “HOLY GRAIL” movies.
Next-up for a lashing with a wet noodle, is THOM BROWNE. Why oh WHY does he think anyone other than MAYBE ALAN CUMMINS would think it’s cool to go out in public in a suit that looks like something British public school boys were forced to wear throughout little boyhood and puberty?


Most men, want to look “suave and debonaire” as my ex-brother-in-law aptly put it. That brings to mind CARY GRANT [on and off-screen] and JAMES BOND [any of the actors – as long as he’s clad to combat evil in a SAVILLE ROW SUIT].
To verify my opinion, I asked a variety of professional men who THEY think looks great and whose look they’d like to have.

The short list I came-away with is the first installment of TheFE’s best-dressed list.
GUYS ON TheFE’s BEST DRESSED LIST
George Clooney
Leonardo DiCaprio
Hugh Jackman
Bradley Cooper
Jude Law
Brad Pitt
Will Smith
Any & all James Bonds
Cary Grant
Fashion Consultant, Robert Burke
Neiman's Ken Downing
The Miami Sun-Sentinel's Rod Hagwood

FORTUNTATELY, THERE ARE DESIGNERS OUT THERE WHO UNDERSTAND THAT THE MAJORITY OF MEN WANT TO LOOK GOOD BUT ARE NOT WILLING TO BE CONFUSED FOR ACTORS ON THEIR WAY TO A PERIOD MOVIE SET.
By “looking good” there ‘s a BROAD RANGE, going from the preppy NAUTICA and PERRY ELLIS style to a relaxed hipster look by
Academy of Art collective collection featuring designs by Louie Llewellyn ( M.F.A. Men’s Wear Design), and Xiang Zhang (M.F.A. Knitwear Design.
I sat in my office applauding these two, after reading the preview article on www.titansandcompany.com.
This capsule collection has it ALL: creative vision, craft, and market appeal.
The article states,” together they have built splendid pieces focused on the concept of ‘disagreement’ between the very basic yet demanding hard nature of menswear designs and the very language of soft fabrics such as knits.”
IN EVERYDAY SPEAK – LLEWELLYN & ZHANG have PRODUCED A LINE OF pieces that feature hard geometric lines softened with hand-rendered knits. The result, the article concludes "is a cross between Rick Owens and cult retailer Oak NYC".
So, now maybe, just maybe, thanks to Llewellyn and Zhang, will have some new stylish and easy-to-wear options for spring. Retailers – take note!

ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY’S s/s2011 show is next Saturday night, September 11.