PART II of the Douglas Hannant Bridal Report – Company President, FREDERICK ANDERSON’s assessment on the luxury retail picture

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Interview: VGK and Richard Spiegel


We were fortunate to grab Frederick after the show for what we thought would be a 2-minute Q +A. To our delight, what resulted was an in-depth conversation, in which Mr. Anderson, gave us his frank assessment on where retail is at, what works and what doesn’t.

VGK/RS: We absolutely loved how Douglas showed only 12 looks this time, and 14 last time. Talk about editing!

FREDERICK ANDERSON: Yes, you have to edit yourself, no question.

VGK/RS: Where is DH Bridal selling?

FREDERICK: It’s at Mimi’s in New Orleans and we’re working with Kleinfelds too. Now, we’ve got inquiries from Spain about it.

VGK/RS: Who’s buying your bridal collection, and how are you pricing it at retail?

FREDERICK: Our client is not going to get married looking like a fairy princess. There’s nothing wrong with wanting to look like a fairy princess, but that’s not what we’re doing here. Our client’s in her twenties to thirties and she’s looking for a little more design. We just had one who flew over from Ireland for a dress, word is getting out.
Gowns go from $2,800 – 9,000. The average price is between $3,000 – 6,000.

VGK/RS: It’s no secret that the social girls love you and Douglas. Was this line created for your regular RTW customers?

FREDERICK: Actually, this bridal show you just saw was not about social. With bridal, we’re expanding our brand. Our couture clients will call us if they’re getting married though.

VGK/RS: What else are you doing to expand the brand, it’s a process!

FREDERICK: We launched the INSIGNIA COLLECTION last season. It’s at Nordstrom’s, Lord & Taylor, and Bloomingdales’. It retails in the $500 – 900 range.

VGK/RS: What plans do you have in the future pertaining to your brand expansion?

FREDERICK: We’d like a freestanding store. It’s good it’s been a slow year so we can find where the holes are in the industry and we can come in and fill them. The editorial we’ve been getting has been out of control for us. We can’t keep the samples in the showroom. It’s great!

VGK/RS: A lot of people are saying that luxury is dead. What direction do you think luxury retailing is headed in?

FREDERICK: Joe Boitano at Saks recently said that it’s now about “a new level of sophistication”.

VGK/RS: You and Douglas are like Mr. Blass was – you spend lots of time with your customer; you really know her. What is the luxury customer’s biggest complaint?

FREDERICK: Our women want quality, they’re used to it, they live with it, and they know when it’s not there. They may pick up a cute girly thing that’s in the stores, but that’s it. The stores are not clued-in enough about the fact that what women want more than all else is quality when they come in to buy.

VGK/RS: Retail is slow in the USA, but as Kramer on CNBC says, “somewhere out there, there’s a bull market”. Where are things hot right now?

FREDERICK: At ALOthman in Kuwait. They just opened a huge store there. They have Parisian Couture, Oscar [de la Renta], Carolina [Herrera].


To hear our entire interview [raw and unedited] with Frederick, you can listen to the pod cast at the following address: www.thefashionmarketreport.com

ENDNOTES: To get a better idea of the DH style esthetic, read his CFDA DESIGN STATEMENT
Douglas Hannant strikes a balance between modernism and romanticism with an ease that is decidedly American. He succeeds in juxtaposing sportswear and couture, day and evening with a youthful regard. Hannant’s designs are simple in shape but rich in fabrication and texture.


To learn more about the Douglas Hannant brand, visit the official website,
www.douglashannant.com
PHOTO CREDITS
Image of Frederick Anderson,VGK
Runway images, courtesy of Douglas Hannant
Photos from the Saks Launch of the Insignia Collection, Matt Carasella, www.patrickmcmullan.com
Image of ALOthamn, from the official website, www.alothman-fashion.com

THE DOUGLAS HANNANT SPRING 2010 BRIDAL COLLECTION

Text, Vivian G. Kelly


BACKSTAGE: THE HAIR & MAKEUP
Although Joel Warren and Ed Tricomi weren’t on hand, the Warren Tricomi team did a fantastic job, creating the modern woman’s version of a bouffant up do.
The Said SHELLY BURZAWA, CLE DE PEAU BEAUTE’S Training Executive Director, “Think of a woman under candlelight and the porcelain look her skin has in that lighting."
This provided a perfect canvas for the strong Liz Taylor arched eyebrow. Most of us aren’t fortunate enough to be born with perfect brows like La Liz, but no problem. The tools in CLE DE PEAU’s Eyebrow & Eyeliner Compact help you fill in the deficiencies.
Available in 2 shades at www.neimanmarcus.com and at the Cle de Peau counter at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC.


THE SHOW
WE couldn’t have been happier, ensconced in the splendor of the Plaza’s Palm room in a LOUIS XV armchair, listening to Ivor Stravinsky’s controversial ballet composition, “Rites of spring” playing and only 12 looks to have to focus on. Each gown was choreographed to correspond to a particular part of the ballet, from thunder to the blossoming of clouds. As the designer said, pre-show – “12 looks - that’s all you need to make a statement of what you’re doing.”
There were 2 silhouettes represented – bias and poof. Some brides have the perfect figure, as do many of Mr. Hannant’s society clients, the devoted followers of his couture collection, and it’s understandable that they’d want to show-off the efforts of their hard work. A good choice for them would be the ivory embroidered lace gown with a horsehair bodice or the modern looking white tulle veiled sequin racer back gown. A bride who wants to bring on the volume would probably prefer the strapless ivory satin faced organza spiral gown with a wide white marabou hem peeking out. Exit #8 reminded us of “Carrie’s” voluminous Vivienne Westwood gown; the one she wore to her aborted wedding at the New York Public Library. The white shantung tiered pouf gown had the lightness of a meringue cookie.
These gowns are deceptively “simple” but there’s nothing simple about achieving the flowing lines and flattering silhouettes Mr. Hannant has with this second bridal collection.

PHOTO CREDITS
Backstage Images, Richard Spiegel
Image of Douglas Hannant with models, from the first D.H. Bridal Collection, R.S.
Images of the Collection, courtesy of Douglas Hannant
Images of Cle de Peau Cosmetics, from Neiman Marcus.com


COMING SOON, THERE’S MORE!: Later this Week – PART II of the Douglas Hannant Bridal Report – an in-depth conversation with Company President, FREDERICK ANDERSON. In this report, Mr. Anderson, gives his frank assessment on where retail is at and what works and what doesn’t.



To hear our entire interview with Frederick, you can listen to the pod cast at the following address: www.thefashionmarketreport.com