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Sunday, October 17, 2010
The Joanna Mastroianni and Elene Cassis s/s2011 Collections
TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
The last lap of NYFW ended nicely thanks to the highly wearable retro inspired dresses we saw the last afternoon of shows. Once we arrived at the Mastroianni studio, I was happy to have braved the drizzle.
There was a definite sixties vibe at
Joanna Mastroianni's s/s2011 collection, which she unveiled as a laid-back presentation at her Manhattan atelier. The atmosphere was more akin to a swank cocktail party at an art gallery, rather than yet another presentation. It was the chicly cozy white space, the designer's adorable Pomeranian, Natasha, and house mascot, and above all, the clothes.
Twentieth century English potter,
Clarice Cliff, was Ms. Mastroianni's muse for this collection. Cliff was known for her cheerful patterns, vibrant colors, and bold outlines. The pottery’s collage effect
works well with Mastroianni’s signature, mixed-media treatments that combined embroidery, patent leather and a palette of sunshine yellow, tangerine, chartreuse, lapis and black and white. The run of show notes made further reference to the role of pop culture in this collection. "Some sculpted shapes reference the Sixties to satisfy our current fascination with midcentury modern aesthetics escalated by “Mad Men.”
There was a definite sixties reference, particularly when it came to the black and white bracelet sleeve collarless jacket and a YSL Mondrian style colorblock mini dress with patent leather detailing. Modern of the moment accessories such as Lucite sandals and the popular runway hair [Barbie doll updos] made it look updated rather than just a straight blast back to the past.
Right after, we made our way West in the rain to see
Elene Cassis' s/s2011 collection show.
Elene Cassis was the perfect show to go to after seeing Joanna Mastroianni's collection. Both designers referenced the sixties, but each did it in their own way. While Joanna showed an orange strapless chiffon dress,
Elene Cassis countered with a long sleeved one in linen. Joanna's color blockdresses juxtaposed black and white with pops of color and Elena's played black and white off each other with interesting detailing
such as colored pentagon shapes and pointed collars.
Both versions looked great. Best at Elene Cassis was her pretty "Lauren" peony print dress
meant for a romantic night in the Caribbean.