MEL ODOM’S GENE MARSHALL DOLL - the Epitome of the Hollywood Glamour Girl

Text, Vivian G. Kelly

IN ALL THINGS IN LIFE, THERE IS A HIERARCHY – EVEN IN DOLL LAND.
BARBIE IS TO A “CONTEMPORARY” CLOTHING LINE WHEREAS GENE MARSHALL IS TO CHANEL COUTURE.

BELOW, the 4-1-1 on this doll who’s really the stuff that Hollywood dreams are made of.

Gene’s been around for 14 years, a remarkable feat in the doll world. Her creator, MEL ODOM, quips, “Doll years are like dog years, a lot of them come and go.”


GENE MARSHALL - VITAL STATISTICS, as per Mel:
STAT #1: Gene is a fictional movie star, she’s a composite – she could be anyone she wants to be - a very empowering idea.


Mel is also a renowned fashion illustrator hailing from North Carolina. Some of his work is currently on display at the Society of Illustrators in NYC. He works with white hot designer, JASON WU, on the collection.
www.societyillustrators.org
To read more about Mel, visit www.cartage.org
STAT #2: Gene is a high fashion comfort doll. “Collectors tell me it reminds them of their mother, a movie star, themselves when they were younger.”


STAT #3: There are 5 characters and there was a man named “Trent” that we did with Jason Wu. Trent's Gene's leading man.


STAT #4: Gene and friends are bigger than Barbie [by about 4”].
Price range: AT $70 to $200, surprisingly reasonable, considering their collector potential.


TO FILL-IN THE PICTURE, AFTER SEEING GENE AND FRIENDS ON EXHIBIT AT “THE LINE OF FASHION” EXHBIT AT THE SOCIETY OF ILLUSTRATORS GALLERY, WE ARRANGED A PHONE CHAT WITH MEL ODOM.


THE FASHION EXAMINER: You’ve got to get the inevitable comparison to Barbie and Ken.


MEL ODOM: Oh sure, we did something that we thought was really clever
Gene came out 1st and then rather than bringing out Trent; we brought out her archrival Madra Lord. It’s an anagram for “drama” and Celtic for “fox”.

T. F.EXAMINER: How are Gene and Madra different from Barbie?

MEL: Barbie is 11 12 inches. Gene and her girls are 15 1/2 inches, which gives you enough length to drape fabric on them nicely. Gene and the girls spawned a whole generation of dolls, which has affected us financially.
Collectors are addicted to it and I’m the pusher, ha ha!

T.F. EXAMINER: Where did the name “Gene Marshall” come from?

MEL: Her birthday is April 17th; it was the date I really decided I was going to do this. My boyfriend’s name was Gene; I was out at a nightclub seeing “Song of Singapore”, a forties musical. I went out to check out my messages and got the call that we were going forward with the project.
That was 1991. She debuted at Toy Fair 4 years later at the Javitz Convention Center.
The director is me, and the producer is Jason Wu. He works with Integrity Toys and invited me to do this.

T.F.EXAMINER: What’s he like? Is he different after his recent incredible success?

MEL: He’s been working since he was 15, working for Integrity Doll.
I still enjoy our collaboration; I don’t see a change.


T.F.EXAMINER: How did you choose the dolls that were in the Society of Illustrator Exhibit? Why those particular dolls?

MEL: When I get some new dolls, I stand them around and look at them and analyze them and see what works and what doesn’t.
I liked the way these worked together. I was really thrilled to be in that show. Where ELSE do you see so many beautiful things in one place at one time?


T. F. EXAMINER: How many dolls ARE in your collection?

MEL: My private collection is at the University of Cincinnati College of Design Architecture Art and Planning. That’s also where designer Bonnie Kashin left her Estate. She designed the costumes for my favorite movie, “Laura” by Otto Preminger.

I don’t have an exact count, I’ve been giving them all away – there were hundreds, there were 2 of everything. As a designer I try to keep 2 as a reference for archival purposes but the storage gets out of control. At the University, I have access to any dolls I might need to work with.
Next year is the 15th anniversary, I’m thinking of doing a big party/gala.

T.F. EXAMINER: Do you have a favorite?

MEL: I have current favorites; it changes. Right now it’s a platinum blonde. ZITA
All the dolls have every color hair.
I’m crazy about their accessories. The shoes are so good you want to eat them! Vaughn Sawyers is the head designer. I’ll send him pics of handbags and send them to him after I’ve looked at vintage sites. It’s very back and forth.

T.F. EXAMINER: What else are you doing?

MEL: I’ve been painting lately, the dolls in oil. I’m hoping to get a really snazzy gallery to show my work.

To Read More About GENE MARSHALL, pick-up a copy of Mel’s book, Gene Marshall, Girl Star, a biography that tells “Gene’s story”, published by Hyperion.
It’s a visual treat, and lives-up to Mel’s criteria that the book be beautiful, first and foremost.


WHERE TO BUY GENE + FRIENDS
Gigi in Chicago, FAO Schwartz in NYC are a few of the fine retailers who carry the dolls.

PHOTO CREDITS
All images of dolls, courtesy of Mel Odom
Image from Otto Preminger’s Laura, from www.imbd.com
Image of Jason Wu, from www.newsday.com

REBECCA TAYLOR FOR BILLY’S BAKERY-CUSTOM CUPCAKES FOR MOTHER’S DAY

Text, Vivian G. Kelly

STUMPED NO MORE!
REBECCA TAYLOR’S COUTURE CONFECTIONS ARE YOUR MOTHER’S DAY SOLUTION
Remember when you were a kid and used to bake your Mom a cake – the gooier the better – for Mother’s Day? We’d stand by Maman's bed and not leave until she’d had at least a forkful and pronounced it “delicious!”
One of the great things about Moms is that they’ll lie to make you feel good. She won’t have to lie this year, if you give her the grown up version, dreamed-up by Rebecca Taylor and Billy’s Bakery. This year, they’ve partnered to design limited edition cupcakes for Mother’s Day.

ABOUT THE CUPCAKES - WHAT'S SPECIAL
Rebecca’s inspiration for the design of each cupcake originated from her Spring/Summer 2009 runway collection. “The Rebecca Taylor girl for Spring/Summer 2009 is a bohemian world traveler,” says Rebecca. The collection includes mixed ethnic prints with a feminine twist in pretty, dreamy colors.
THE OPTIONS
Vanilla Twinkle by Rebecca Taylor - made of Billy’s yellow daisy cupcake topped with blue vanilla buttercream and a sprinkle of white crystal sugar and silver dots. It imitates the blue dot chiffon dress from the runway.

Mocha Meow was created from Billy’s chocolate cupcake and special Mocha-flavored buttercream with dark and light chocolate sprinkles. Resembles the leopard printed pieces in the collection.

THE COST + WHERE TO GET IT
The cupcake: $2.75/piece. Available beginning May 1st at Billy’s Bakery 184 9th Avenue New York, NY 10011.
Tel: (212) 647-9956
To see more, visit their website at "www.billysbakerynyc.com"

The dress: Dresses fall in the $185 - $425 range – reasonable, by designer standards.

To see Rebecca’s latest collection, visit "www.rebeccataylor.com"

ENDNOTES
Even if you’re not a Mom, pick-up one of these couture confections for yourself.
If you’re feeling really flush, get Mom [+/or yourself!] the dress to match, and she’ll think you’re the cat’s meow on May 10th.

PHOTO CREDITS
Image of Rebecca Taylor, Dan Lecca, Courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Newsgroup
Images of Collection and cupcakes, Courtesy of Rebecca Taylor

FUR DESIGNER DENNIS BASSO: WHAT IT TAKES TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER

Text, Vivian G. Kelly


One of the highlights of attending last night’s FIT on the CATWALK, [Fashion Design Senior Collection 2009] was finally meeting fur king, designer DENNIS BASSO.
He was front row, with fellow FIT supporters/critics Nicole Miller. We took the opportunity to ask the jovial designer about his advice for graduating students and his various collections.
Like his contemporaries, Douglas Hannant and Ralph Rucci, Mr. Basso is uncompromising about the quality of his Collection garments. The “ladies” would never make do with less, after all.
Mr. Basso’s mission statement on his official website reads as follows,
“ …the combination of only the highest quality treatments on exotic materials and the most advance finishing techniques in the industry are generating limited products of unsurpassed standards and quality”.
THAT pertains to the Collection that Mr. Basso shows twice annually at New York Fashion Week. Then there’s the thriving QVC biz.


THE FASHION EXAMINER: It’s no secret that it’s tough out there. What advice do you have for graduating students?
DENNIS BASSO: That’s true, interestingly enough though; it’s not easy to be graduating in ANY profession, whether you’re a fashion designer, or an MBA.

TFE: Who’s going to make it?
D Basso: The most aggressive and talented will make it. It’s survival of the fittest.

TFE: Let’s talk about you. Are you toning down what you’re doing due to the times we’re going through?
D BASSO. No, I’m not toning it down. If anything, at this time what I make has to be even more fabulous and more interesting for her to get past her hesitation to spend. And the rewards are worth it, the rave reviews she gets about how great she looks.

TFE: A bank teller we know is in love with your Dennis Basso line for QVC. Are you enjoying doing that?

D BASSO: Yes! I’ve been doing it for 16 years, and that business is up. It’s extremely affordable and a great value. Where else can you get a Dennis Basso coat for $100?



To view more of Mr. Basso's work, visit
www.dennisbasso.com
www.qvc.com

A PROPER INDULGENCE – ORIBE’s Gel Serum – A product for the hair obsessed

Couturier Hubert de Givenchy famously said, “Hair style is the final tip-off whether or not a woman really knows herself.”


We’re admittedly hair-obsessed and recession or not, we haven’t given up on wanting to look beautiful. After seeing the Marc Jacobs fall 2009 show, we’re back in LOVE with big hair, eighties style. When it wasn't that, we opted for the slicked-back hair every "power-luncher" on Wall Street favored. Back then, like every other club going girl or guy, we used STIFF STUFF, which held any style you wanted from 8:00AM to 2:00AM, after breakfast at the FLORENT diner downtown.
Fortunately for us, ORIBE CANALES has developed a new product that makes even the laziest of us appear as if we know what we’re doing. ORIBE’s GEL SERUM is “Stiff Stuff”, only BETTER, and the packaging is what couture is to Walmart.


Oribe‘s GEL SERUM. It promises “Radiance, Magic, and Hold”. That’s a tall order but this product holds and conditions, at the same time. By “radiance” we mean SHEEN, not SHINE aka “greasy”. Our unruly short hair stayed firmly in place – all day, with no pins, no clips, and looked as polished at 6PM as it did at 7AM. All that’s required is to massage a pea-sized squirt into your palms and tousle your hair into the desired position and DONE.


THE TECHNOLOGY
These sexy products are the result of 30 years of custom-blending lotions and potion. Oribe and his crew tested them ON SET, IN THE SALON, AND ON HOLLYWOOD’S A-LISTERS. These glamorous test rats got to try and use these paraben-free shampoos, conditioners and styling products way before they hit the market, but now we can all get in on a little bit of the glamour usually only reserved for the jet set.
KEY INGREDIENT in the GEL SERUM: Corn, Wheat and Soy Microproteins are actually anti-aging. The product coats the hair’s surface, also protecting it from blow-drying and irons, in case you get ambitious.
15 fl. Oz - $58
WHERE TO GET IT: The Adam Broderick Salon, Ridgefield, CT
Tel: 203-431-3994
www.adambroderick.com

If you happen to be in Miami, you can drop into Oribe’s salon, and book an appointment to have your hair restyled and leave with just the right product RX for your new coif.
The Oribe Salon is located on 1627 Euclid Avenue, Miami Beach. Tel. 305-538-8006
If not, there’s always the website, www.oribe.com


COMING SOON: The review on the ORIBE Shampoo and conditioner.

ENDNOTES: If you’re curious about Stiff Stuff, it’s still out there! www.americarx.com


*Additional photo credits: Product image from oribe.com
Image of Oribe product family, www.scottbarnestv.com
Image of Adam Broderick, www.salonawards.com

PART II of the Douglas Hannant Bridal Report – Company President, FREDERICK ANDERSON’s assessment on the luxury retail picture

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Interview: VGK and Richard Spiegel


We were fortunate to grab Frederick after the show for what we thought would be a 2-minute Q +A. To our delight, what resulted was an in-depth conversation, in which Mr. Anderson, gave us his frank assessment on where retail is at, what works and what doesn’t.

VGK/RS: We absolutely loved how Douglas showed only 12 looks this time, and 14 last time. Talk about editing!

FREDERICK ANDERSON: Yes, you have to edit yourself, no question.

VGK/RS: Where is DH Bridal selling?

FREDERICK: It’s at Mimi’s in New Orleans and we’re working with Kleinfelds too. Now, we’ve got inquiries from Spain about it.

VGK/RS: Who’s buying your bridal collection, and how are you pricing it at retail?

FREDERICK: Our client is not going to get married looking like a fairy princess. There’s nothing wrong with wanting to look like a fairy princess, but that’s not what we’re doing here. Our client’s in her twenties to thirties and she’s looking for a little more design. We just had one who flew over from Ireland for a dress, word is getting out.
Gowns go from $2,800 – 9,000. The average price is between $3,000 – 6,000.

VGK/RS: It’s no secret that the social girls love you and Douglas. Was this line created for your regular RTW customers?

FREDERICK: Actually, this bridal show you just saw was not about social. With bridal, we’re expanding our brand. Our couture clients will call us if they’re getting married though.

VGK/RS: What else are you doing to expand the brand, it’s a process!

FREDERICK: We launched the INSIGNIA COLLECTION last season. It’s at Nordstrom’s, Lord & Taylor, and Bloomingdales’. It retails in the $500 – 900 range.

VGK/RS: What plans do you have in the future pertaining to your brand expansion?

FREDERICK: We’d like a freestanding store. It’s good it’s been a slow year so we can find where the holes are in the industry and we can come in and fill them. The editorial we’ve been getting has been out of control for us. We can’t keep the samples in the showroom. It’s great!

VGK/RS: A lot of people are saying that luxury is dead. What direction do you think luxury retailing is headed in?

FREDERICK: Joe Boitano at Saks recently said that it’s now about “a new level of sophistication”.

VGK/RS: You and Douglas are like Mr. Blass was – you spend lots of time with your customer; you really know her. What is the luxury customer’s biggest complaint?

FREDERICK: Our women want quality, they’re used to it, they live with it, and they know when it’s not there. They may pick up a cute girly thing that’s in the stores, but that’s it. The stores are not clued-in enough about the fact that what women want more than all else is quality when they come in to buy.

VGK/RS: Retail is slow in the USA, but as Kramer on CNBC says, “somewhere out there, there’s a bull market”. Where are things hot right now?

FREDERICK: At ALOthman in Kuwait. They just opened a huge store there. They have Parisian Couture, Oscar [de la Renta], Carolina [Herrera].


To hear our entire interview [raw and unedited] with Frederick, you can listen to the pod cast at the following address: www.thefashionmarketreport.com

ENDNOTES: To get a better idea of the DH style esthetic, read his CFDA DESIGN STATEMENT
Douglas Hannant strikes a balance between modernism and romanticism with an ease that is decidedly American. He succeeds in juxtaposing sportswear and couture, day and evening with a youthful regard. Hannant’s designs are simple in shape but rich in fabrication and texture.


To learn more about the Douglas Hannant brand, visit the official website,
www.douglashannant.com
PHOTO CREDITS
Image of Frederick Anderson,VGK
Runway images, courtesy of Douglas Hannant
Photos from the Saks Launch of the Insignia Collection, Matt Carasella, www.patrickmcmullan.com
Image of ALOthamn, from the official website, www.alothman-fashion.com

THE SECRET’S OUT! MANHATTAN’S NEW JEWEL BOX SALON – ANTHONY LEONARD

Text, Vivian G. Kelly, with contributions + photography by Richard Spiegel

“There is no luxury in fashion anymore, so that’s why you have to make sure that your hair looks great,” Quips ANTHONY PALERMO. “Isaac Mizrahi said on THE TODAY SHOW, that you have to have the right hair color, cut and shoes.”



THE DOLCE & GABBANAS OF HAIR
THANKS TO Rachel Paltesky of Edite, we found our way to this 4-month old salon on East 54th street, just off Madison Avenue. The Salon is downtown but uptown – a jewel box with custom-made leather chairs with grommets that are as comfy as the club chairs at the Cornell Club. The mirrors are also custom, and were fashioned to look like the dressing room mirrors in a boutique, so you can see your hair from every angle.
The Salon is the perfect place to have a fashion show, and a great off-site space for up and coming designers. Not surprisingly, Edite client, Glam-punk Princess, HALEH will be staging her show there this September. We look forward to seeing the Salon transformed into a punk rock den that evening.

ABOUT
Maybe you haven’t heard of Anthony or his partner, LEONARD ZAGAMI, but you’ve certainly heard of their famous clientele. Between them, they have numerous editorials and celebrity clients. To name just a few - the Springsteins, Madonna and family, Maria Sharapova,Tyra Banks and Iman. Anthony, by the way, loves, loves, LOVES Tyra. “She’s setting the tone for models to be. They’re all going to want what she has, the show, the contracts, she has it all.” Anthony’s a multi-media presence, maybe you caught him on the Oprah show when Oprah called him “a hair wizard”.
ANTHONY is the Salon’s Color Czar/Color Director, and started his hair career with Oribe Canales, the King of Big Sexy hair. LEONARD, the Creative Director, began at Bumble & Bumble, and does magic scissors and a blowdryer, minus the snarky superstar attitude.
Leonard does loads of shows, including Valentino’s exclusive VIP client and press shows in New York. With his easygoing manner and non-stop smile, it’s easy to see how Leonard charms everyone he deals with from Madison Avenue office workers to his celebrity clients.

DEFINING MOMENTS
Anthony identifies the highlights of his career [so far] are having been on Oprah, and having Madonna as a client. To that, we’ll add that he was the man responsible for the color of the Marilyn Monroe-esque wig that Oribe styled on Scarlett Johnasson for the Dolce & Gabbana ads shot by lensman Solve Sundsbro.


LEONARD CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT: The T3 Bespoked that’s Tourmaline infused and weights less than a can of coke. Small wonder, Leonard advised the creators about how to create the perfect hairdryer. “It’s heat, but the right heat because it breaks down the negative ions in the hair and dries it faster”. And it did, our hair was try in 3 minutes flat.


COLOR TRANSFORMATION

WE came in with an image of Madonna [one of Anthony’s clients] as she appeared in April W, firmly fixed in our mind, but walked out a redhead – Linda Evangelista style circa 1992. Although we’d secretly harbored a desire last year to have the red hair Kate Blanchett wore so well in “Elizabeth”, we never seriously thought we could achieve that flame color. All told, we spent @ 1 1/2 hours in the chair, and left a different woman.

THE VERDICT
Friendly, laid-back, and most importantly, these guys know what they’re doing and understand that for many women, hair is about fantasy and is a huge priority when it comes to how we feel about ourselves.
THE BOTTOM LINE: If you want beautiful editorial hair and a fun relaxed atmosphere, look no further.

The Anthony Leonard Salon is located on 532 Madison Avenue, 3rd floor, NYC
Tel: 212-750-8100
Take a peek at the website, which will be up and running by end of month
www.anthonyleonardsalon.com

ENDNOTES: COMING SOON!
- ORIBE’S DELUXE HAIR CARE PRODUCTS + NAIL SUPERSTAR, ELLE GERSTEIN
The next day, as we were somewhat concerned that our hair would appear dry after the bleach application. WE lined up our new ORIBE products and got ready to do some serious sampling, starting with the Shampoo and Condition, and the Gel Serum. The Serum promised us “Radiance, Magic, and Hold”, a tall order, even for the king of glamorous hair.
Later this week – how the products performed and product finder info.

- NAIL GURU to the stars - ELLE GURSTEIN & her super long lasting Barielle nail polish line

ADDITIONAL PHOTO CREDITS
Image of Scarlett Johansson by Solve Sundsbro
Image of Madonna by Steven Klein, April W
Image of Maria Sharapova from her official website, www.mariasharapova.com

PART II: ACCESSORIES NEWS AT EDITE - RAFAEL YOUNG LAUNCHES HIS EPONYMOUS SHOE COLLECTION

Text, Vivian G. Kelly
Images, Courtesy of Edite
TIME & PLACE: April 2009, at the Edite Showroom, 134 West 29th Street, NYC


IT’S IN THE DETAILS
Years ago, Michael Kors’ lead designer, LANCE LEPERE told us that one of the secrets of great design was this – “it’s all in the details”. Yes, those little touches that make a bag an “it” bag or if sloppily rendered, out a designer knock-off as the fake it is. The same can be said for shoes. To our disappointment, the floral Sprouse-Louis Vuitton eighties pink patent pumps we initially loved lost their appeal after we saw that the sole had been glued on, and not all that well, at that. Sometimes the best made shoes are ones you've never heard of - at least not until now.


SO, WHAT’S OUT THERE THAT’S EXCITING ENOUGH TO MAKE YOU WANT TO BUY?

THE ANSWER: RAFAEL YOUNG

THE LOOK IN A NUTSHHELL: “Chrome Hearts meets Balenciaga”.


Shoe Designer RAFAEL YOUNG’s CV includes designing for Yves St Laurent, and a stint co-designing with Manisha Arora for the trendy H. Lorenzo boutique located on West Sunset Boulevard in LA. Mr. YOUNG is one of a select number of artists who actually designs the old-fashioned way out - of a block of wood. Unfortunately, as with “les petites mains” of the Haute Couture ateliers, this skill is a dying art. These futuristic yet sexy shoes made with the softest of leather and heels the likes you've never seen before, have names to match "Bibop", "Futura" and "Fazer". If they ever make a sequel to AEON FLUX, we'd bet that Charlize Theron would be wearing a pair.

RETAIL PRICING: $700 – 2500.

For more information on the collection, contact Megan Wolfe, at Edite, P: (212) 967-0202 C: (917) 825-3413 F: (212) 967-0822