The Farah Angsana and Mara Hoffman s/s2011 Collections

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
In the last few seasons that FARAH ANGSANA has been showing at NYFW, she has evolved into an eveningwear designer to be reckoned with.


I've been following Farah since the days when she and Kevan Hall were the star attractions at MBFW [Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week] LA. With the right Public Relations Firm, Paul Wilmot, at her side, Farah’s realizing her potential. Now that she’s got the right representation behind her, she continues to hone her craft while staying true to her signature look, which she told me post-show
is also her mantra, " sexy, elegant, NEVER vulgar".


Like nearly every designer out there, she’s got an eye on producing some Red Carpet looks, but she’s also got some great day looks for the soigné woman who as Tom Ford pointed-out, is willing to put time and energy into looking great.

Farah had lots of cocktail looks to choose from. There was a gorgeous pink and green chiffon print that's stunning, in both the long and short versions. The Red carpet bid came when she showed the gold lame Oscar statuette gown.
My favorite though, was the finale mini dress I’d like to see the likes of Natalie Portman or Carrie Mulligan in. The green draped silk chiffon Kebaya mini dress embroidered with gold thread and Swarovski crystals was a feat of craftsmanship, and earned her a well-deserved round of applause.




I then shifted gears from an evening wear mind set to day wear, and went a few miles South, down to Pier 59, to go see what one of my favorite daywear and swim designers, MARA HOFFMAN, had in store for s/s2011. While Farah clearly designs with the Red Carpet in mind, Mara Hoffman's demographic is something entirely different. You see a diversity of stars as different as Jennifer Lopez
and Lauren Conrad,
rocking their respective Mara Hoffmans, but even more importantly, you see a lot of non-celebs wearing it too.
The true barometer of a brand's success is if the question, "are people (other than the models, celebrities and public relations team) wearing it?” Looking around the crowded presentation space, I glimpsed over a dozen cool women, some tall, some short, wearing Mara Hoffman. They weren't celebrities who were paid to attend and to wear Mara Hoffman. They were real women wearing these clothes because they love how they look in them.

Upon entering the Pier 59 space, we were treated to vacation-themed vignettes
complete with calypso music, palm trees and Mara’s bright batik prints. It’s tricky to design a good print, and Mara’s one of the best when it comes to creating a winning print. As ‘Ari’ of Entourage is won't to say, "it's all good".
I fixated on the stunning red batik print.
Wanna wanna! I left, mentally planning-out how I’d coordinate that piece with other items in my wardrobe for my spring break trip to the Mexican Riviera post the fall 2011 NY shows.

ENDNOTES
To view the gallery of looks from the Farah Angasana s/s2011 show, visit www.exposay.com

Backstage Beauty: butter London and Manicurist/Nail Trend Spotter Nonie Crème at Yigal Azrouel s/s2010

One of my favorite beauty finds this fall was butter LONDON. My friend, Mark Behnke of Fashion Tribes, has been a long-time fan of Brit’s nail queen, Nonie Crème, who’s butter London’s Creative Director and was slated to do a bunch of shows, including Betsey Johnson and Yigal Azrouel. Mark’s one of a handful of American straight guys who’s secure enough to wear color, whether it’s a purple shirt or
OPI’S ‘Linkin Park After Dark’ or more recently, ‘British Racing Green’.

That makes for a refreshing change from yuppie guys who think it’s a radical step to wear a pink shirt [gasp] in lieu of a starched white navy one to work. Mark turned onto butter London nearly two years ago, when he met her at the Vena Cava when she debuted British Racing Green. Over dinner a few nights earlier, Mark told us that he’d permanently quit his OPI habit for his newer one – butter London. He explained, “Butter doesn’t chip, Nonie’s got cool colors unlike any I’ve seen elsewhere [true, why do we need OPI’s seemingly endless riffs on red that are practically indistinguishable from one another?] He knew she’d be backstage at Yigal; so we made a point of seeking her out there, pre-show.

A few days later, after speaking with YIGAL backstage about FASHION v. CLOTHES, we spotted the diminutive NONIE CRÈME, off to the right, custom pouring and blending nail color for the upcoming show.
Nonie is London’s leading manicurist and nail trend spotter. She joined butter LONDON as its Founding Creative Director to help founder Sasha Muir develop a new brand of hand and nail care products that combined high fashion and health and set about building what is today, a premier British fashion brand of hand and nail care products without chemical nasties. Their motto, “3 Free is what we do and it means No Formaldehyde, No toluene, and No DBP (Phthales). Ever.”
At Yigal, Nonie took the time to chat for a few minutes, and sent me off with two bottles to try – “Minger” –
which is THE perfect color to wear to Halloween parties, after I oohed and ahed over it. "Minger" by the way, according to the UK Dictionary of slang means, "a physically undesirable, smelly, or ugly person." So perverse, so tongue in cheek - I was in love with this woman I'd just met and her cooler than cool polishes.

She also suggested I try her newest, “ALL HAIL MCQUEEN”
which falls neatly into the gray nail polish trend, which I didn’t think I’d be trying anytime soon, because it seemed every fashion editor in Lincoln Center was wearing some variation of gray, and I was already tired of gray. In rebellion, I opted to wear nothing at all until if and when something irresistible came down the pike. Luckily for me, along came butter London, to shake me out of my beauty slump.
I went from indifference to longing for “ British Racing Green” Mark and Nonie spoke excitedly of – just to do something different and to match my new "classic green" SWANKINI swimsuit
I’m planning to inaugurate later this week at a friend’s pool. I say “in a few days”, because I just hit the “send” button and have to give the UPS guys a few days to drop it at my gate. That got me thinking of my dream car, a vintage MG in British Racing Green

with a camel leather interior - yum.
As I waited for my order to arrive, after rereading the February 11, 2010 article in www.vogue.com, on the late great Alexander [McQueen], I decided to try “All Hail McQueen”. It took three coats and I eat my words about “boring gray”. I love my sparkly gray-beige nails that are on trend but do NOT look like everyone else’s nails. Nonie and butter London – you have a new fan.

The Christian Siriano s/s2011 Collection

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
The best part of NYFW is that I get to actually TALK to people I write about throughout the course of the year. While in line for Lela Rose, Christian Siriano was flattered when I told him his that one of his finale gowns reminded me of a Bob Mackie.





Said Christian before being hustled off to his front row seat, "Ooh, I've always admired him and would love to meet him!”

A few days earlier, Christian had a pretty impressive front row going in section F: actor Alan Cummings and Leigh Lezark of the MisShapes – a modern day version of Snow White.




Siriano continues to build his brand - there are sunglasses now + wild vertiginous cage shoes for Payless and some matching taupe bags. I’ll pass on the bags but the shoes – oh my!
These towering models had women buzzing excitedly about them post-show.
The clean lined slim trousers and blouses and white dresses served as perfect foils to the sky-high retro hair and futuristic shoes. The details lay with the shoulder. There was an aqua and bronze party dress and a stab at the red carpet - a flounced gown with a crumb catcher bodice.







My favorites though were the simplest, the liquid silver short dress
and the silk charmeuse snakeskin blouse, gold snake leather skirt and matching clutch. He hit a dramatic note at the end w/ a ruffled red snake chiffon top worn w/ high-waisted black trousers.



My vote for “most dramatic evening gown” goes to the white finale tulle strapless gown where Christian unleashed his famous dramatic streak. I was reminded of old- time couturiers such as Bob Mackie, who like Siriano, weren't afraid to "go there".

I’ve been to over 1,000 fashion shows, but the Mackie show I attended nearly 10 years ago, at a cabaret at a long ago NYFW, is one I distinctly remember. Like Christian Siriano, Bob Mackie is a showman. In his hey day, fans included over-the-top personalities such as CHER, DIANA ROSS, WHITNEY HOUSTON, and TINA TURNER.






None of these gals was ever a retiring wallflower. He was also the costume designer for The Carol Burnett Show during its entire 11 year run, which as a child, I broke the rules for and watched in secret, when my parents were relaxing over Manhattans in the study, positive I was sound asleep in my bed. Back then, I loved Carol’s screamingly funny skits but I loved to watch her fantastic outfits too. It was a thrill years later, when I got to shake his hand after the cabaret show.


Going back to Christian Siriano, sure, it would take a daring woman to wear what one stylist referred to as “the toilet brush dress”, but the right woman can carry it and she’ll make a statement wearing it.
When you step-out as Mr. Mackie and Siriano do, and try to create dramatic couture level garments, not everyone’s going to love it. Couturier Paco Rabanne was criticized for his “space age designs” early in his career. We need some fashion and fantasy in fashion. Without talents such as Siriano, Mackie, McQueen, and Rabanne who dared to push the envelope, fashion would be a very dull proposition, indeed.

The Tibi s/s2011 Collection Show

TEXT,VIVIAN KELLY
Pre-show, backstage, designer Amy Smilovic spoke about how she wants to get away from prints a bit and show fashion that looks like how she herself dresses. For fall in NYC, Amy's in a pair of black silk dupioni trousers w/ self coverered buttons and an easy long sleeve orange silk shirt and heels.


She is most decidedly NOT one of those designers who's backstage running around in gray sweats and pins in her mouth. This extends to workdays at her studio. Everyone needs to come in looking dressed, or you get sent home to change.
Amy put her models in loafers but they weren't generic school girl penny loafers. These loafers boasted a fashionably trendy wedge heel. Even shorts looked "dressed" as in a crean pointelle knit long sleeve sweater worn with well-tailored khaki silk shorts and a super short black tunic dress with matching shorts.



The little zebra print coat was fun but a strong shoulder + black pipinhg trim detail gave it an uptown girl vibe - something 'Serena' might throw on in Gossip Girl.




Instead of pattern, there was an abundance of texture, that included smooth washed silks, basketweaves, crochet, and beaded chiffon. You can pull pieces from this collection, and wear them with others already in your closet or splurge and buy a whole new headto toe outfit for the newer more toned down Tibi look. Designer Amy Smilovic has met her criteria: "to render fashion in an accessible way".

Backstage With Bobbi Brown at the Tibi s/s2011 show

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

There are some people that it's love at first sight with. Such was the case with MAKEUP MOGUL, BOBBI BROWN. I first met Bobbi when she'd just started her namesake company and there weren't a whole lot of colors, but she had this great color called "brown", which everyone agreed looked good on anyone and everyone. She wore a lot of black, very little makeup and smiled a lot. The models loved her for her chilled-out attitude, and as the harried PR for Michael Kors, so did I.

Fast-forward 15 years later, and Bobbi's still Bobbi. It was great to get to catch-up a bit with her backstage, at the Tibi s/s2011 show. There she was, adeptly fielding questions fired at her by eager editors and film crews waving mikes in her face, all the while showing the special palette she'd created for the show. Bobbi turned to the crowd of faces and jokingly asked, "You're all from websites? Doesn't anyone work for magazines anymore?" She, like everyone this season who's in the fashion business is marveling at the sheer number of bloggers and tweeters who now cover fashion week.
For Tibi, Bobbi did her signature fresh and clean makeup, which went nicely with the side parted ponytail, accessorized with two clips. The Tibi girl is historically fresh faced but she has some fun too. This season, Bobbi provided that with a thicker eyeliner with her long-wear gel eyeliner to create the winged eye that was the focus for this show. The look was pretty, but not TOO perfect.

Meanwhile, over in the hair area, Aveda stylists Kevin Ryan and Frank Rizziari dealt with hair drama. One of the models arrived on the latish side rushing from her previous show with her long blonde hair crimped to the max and loaded down with product. Frank walked over to take a closer look and warned, "Honey, you have to use water and wash it all out or you're going to cry when we work on your hair".
He turned back to us and explained, "When a model comes with tons of stuff in her hair, dry shampoo will only make the hair grittier and will only serve to mask it. The only thing that works is water." Good to know, as I'd always assumed dry shampoo was the quickie solution to getting product out of one's hair.

I caught my few minutes of face time with Bobbi, and she answered the questions I lobbed over to her.
As to what she wants the makeup to achieve for this [or any show she does] "is for women to look and say, 'I want to look like THAT', wearing those clothes and THAT makeup."
We discussed how she's able to address her ever-exapanding global customer base. When she creates a palette, she thinks about how it has to work for women in England, Japan, and the USA. In short, she wants them ALL to love it.
Bobbi's Best-selling product after all these years is the original BROWN which started it all.
How many sku#'s does she have? "Hmm, I don't know, but I'm really excited about this one"[pointing at the sleek silver croco "TIBI" palette of silvery shadows." I left not knowing how many lipsticks are on the line, but I know I'm getting in line for one of the Tibi palettes when they're out this spring.

Backstage Beauty at Marchesa s/s2011

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Yesterday, I got lucky. A few days ago, I met the Red Door’s Publicist, Michelle Sabari-Wrubel, at Robert Verdi's LUXE LOUNGE. As they say, “one thing led to another”. The “other” I this instance was that she arranged for a phone interview with ALISHA BOTERO, the Red Door Spas National Training Director, Nail Services. Talking with Alicia yesterday, pre-show was like having my very own woman on the inside. Alicia was doing nails, but she makes an excellent reporter too. She of course, told me about the nails, but in addition, provided descriptions about the hair Fredric Fekkai stylist, Renato Campora did that was so accurate, that when the images hit my computer hours later, I already had a very good idea of what I’d see.

“Nails, Alisha explained, should NOT compete with the clothing, Marchesa clothes are the stars. These are soft and glamorous Oscar looks that need nails that should compliment the gowns, not compete with them.”

Alisha used a sheer creamy baby pink polish that at this point is unnamed by Le Metier de Beaute. After looking over the pictures, I remembered reading that the late Gloria Guinness –one of the most elegant of all fashion icons – did not polish her nails, preferring this same clean and soft glamour. In today’s HD world, unpolished nails are just not an option for the Red Carpet, so Alisha’s take is the closest thing, and unlike an unpolished nail, looks finished.
She continued with a description of the hair, which was “braided and twisted on top of the head”, followed by the makeup –“which had a highlight around the face that gave it a glowing look, and a heavy white liner on the lid”. The white liner’s a great trick Bobbi Brown shared with me years ago, that saves you on days you’re super-tired. The white pops open the eye, giving an instant lift.

If you want to attempt the hair at home, you’ll need to work Fekkai Essential Shea Tame & Style Pot de Crème through your hair. Next, as Renato did, flip your head over and braid the hair out so that it will fall perfectly on top of the head, and secure it into a bun at the crown.
Finish-up by smoothing your hair with Fekkai Essential Shea Ultra-Rich Mask and Fekkai Silky Straight Smooth Finish. THAT, you can accomplish at home.

If it’s a special event, and you’re having a stylist do your hair, do as Renato did and place a gorgeous embellished accessory to the finished look.
Bellisima!

DUCKIE BROWN s/s2011: Fashion Vs. Clothes, Post #1

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY


My interview with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox got me thinking about an issue that is terribly important to the fashion community – fashion vs. clothes.
How then, does one make the distinction? I decided to base the rest of this fashion week asking designers what THEY think.
First-up: Duckie Brown's Daniel Silver and Steven Cox.

Although Daniel and Silver work together brilliantly to produce season after season of clothes that continue to inspire us AND SELL, they are divided on this issue.

Blame it on the Fashion Calendar.
The two designers disagreed over the question I posed pre-show backstage. Waving the thick sheaf of pages at them I volleyed a barrage of questions at Daniel, “Why is the FC so crowded? Is it good or bad? Who are you hoping will buy your designs in this time of economic turmoil?”
Although I directed the query at Daniel, Steven was listening and also jumped into what resulted in a lively conversation on this topic.

DANIEL: What we’re seeing here [pointing to the FC] is the democratization of fashion. It’s become a media circus. There’s a tidal wave of bloggers and designers; everyone can do it and everyone has a chance, it's very democratic.

STEVEN: I disagree, call me a snob, but fashion should be aspirational. There’s sportswear, and there’s fashion. Think back to those shows at Dior, in the fifties. Entry was limited only to the select few, and there was a sense of ceremony to the whole thing, versus what we have now - which is this. And, by the way, that’s the most interesting question we’ve been asked this morning.

One thing they both agree on is that they [Duckie Brown] make fashion, not sportswear and they do NOT like to be compared to multi-billion dollar sportswear khakis that knock-out uninspired khakis season after season.
Does this though, mean that by taking the road less travelled, that they won’t make any money?

Says Daniel, “When people ask me how we’re doing, I tell them, ‘Well, we’ll still here, and we’re still in business’.”

As far as knowing who their customer is, they’re crystal clear on that point. As my former editor, Jim Zebora, now the Regional Business Editor for Hearst, posited, the Asian Market is hungry for and appreciates fashion.
Continues Daniel, “The Japanese have saved us. Going back to the question regarding the overly crowded show schedule, what’s interesting is to know who on that list will still be here in nine years.”

As Daniel and Steven promised, we came to see fashion, and fashion is what we saw. Presentation is part of the packaging that makes it fashion not just a bunch of clothes buyers are deciding they will or won’t buy.
Upon entering the show venue, I was confounded by the empty bleachers that made up an entire half of the show venue. A FULL ONE HALF of the venue was occupied by empty bleachers, replacing seats and leaving many fashion hopefuls outside in the standing line having to content themselves with watching this remarkable show on the HD Screens in the lobby.
The models walked down the runway and then went and posed on the bleachers. This blatant “waste” of space was as effective a device as when fashion companies buy ad space in hyper expensive glossies and then use one of the pages as pure white space. IT’s a colossal gesture and an effective one.
In the case of the Duckie Brown show, it was particularly jolting as only 15 minutes earlier, Daniel had told me that they’ve “never had the flood of requests [they] were inundated with this season.”
That aside, it was the best of both worlds, a runway show and presentation wrapped into one. The clothes are for the man who wants to be on the razor’s edge of what’s cool. That translated to easy dove gray long shorts, blousy tops, linen tunics and some ikat print pieces and a flash of color as in a bright green pant. Gant, Tommy or Nautica, it’s not.