And a Toast – To “the Family”!

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
I’m a veteran of the fashion industry, and proud of it. It really struck me just HOW LONG I’ve been in this business while hanging out with “the Family” [no, not the Cosa Nostra/Soprano one]. The family I’m referring to is the loosely linked group of mostly New York-based editors and photographers who cover fashion in New York and cities such as Miami, LA, Toronto, and Europe.
Here’s the thing, it’s not easy to break into the family, and some never do. Once you’re in though, you know you’ll be taken care of. Over the years, thanks to them, I’ve been able to gain access to shows and backstage I was confirmed for and yet denied access once I arrived. As chaos at the door is a given, there’s nothing that beats the feeling when a friend steps up for you and says to the overwhelmed PR’s “ She’s with me”. Runway photo King and Queen, Dan and Cory Lecca, have done their stuff for me more times than I can count on two hands over the years. We met while I was PR at Michael Kors, back in the days of “Minimalism”, and we’ve followed one another’s family milestones, the births of children, and grandchildren, ie: the really big stuff.
EDWARD JAMES of FASHION WATCH-TV and my long-time collaborator, Richard Spiegel, [now the Editor of THE FASHION TRIBUNE.com], have both many times used their bulk to propel me forward ahead of rude editors and TV crews trying to cut in front of me for my long-scheduled designer interview– most recently at CUSTO BARCELONA. Ed Kavische, of FASHION WIRE PRESS, and I bonded in the press lounge of a long ago Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, when he offered to help me, a total stranger, figure out a tech problem with my laptop.
Last night, while packing and eating a midnight dinner of Cuban takeout in the room at the Shelborne, with Richard and Edward, Ed remarked, “Vivian, whether you like it or not, we’re family.”
I don’t mind it at all; in fact, I like it – a lot. Thanks guys, and the rest of you, you know who you are. See you in September.

The Trina Turk swim and resort 2011 Collection Show at the Raleigh

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Prior to the show we chatted w/ Ocean Drive's Publisher, Courtland Lantaff, re the state of the magazine biz. It’s not often I have the opportunity to sit next to one of “the suits” at a show, as in New York, there’s a “Business” section vs. the “Editorial” section I’m seated in.
Said Courtland, "We're not changing the world but our book gives people pleasure and this situation is not unlike that we experienced with radio year ago, the strong will survive".
Rapper Bow wow sat directly across us, with Kimora Lee Simmons' daughter, and the photographers snapped happily away, as BW was one of the few celebrities in attendance at these shows.
The vibe was good mood retro music, which worked perfectly with the expected bright retro graphic print bikinis for the girls and teeny Euro style bikinis for the guys.
Best in show goes to the oversize leather drawstring floral print duffle and the matching floral halter dress which would have made for a strong finishing look. I wasn't on board w/ the numerous lame pieces, but kudos to Trina for piling on her accessories w/ each + every look: go girl w/ that merchandising! Don't need a suit? So what? You may want a pair of cork wedges, a big hat, enamel stack bracelets, a bag or a head scarf.

All Images of runway show, Richard Spiegel
Image of Bow Wow, VK

MARA HOFFMAN – Preview of the Swim 2011 Collection

TEXT,VIVIAN KELLY

Every season at whichever fashion week I'm attending, there are the obvious stars of the week. This week, at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim, the two highlights are Trina Turk and Mara Hoffman.
New York City based Ready-to-Wear & Swimwear designer Mara Hoffman will be showing her “Mara Hoffman Swim” collection on the runway for the second time during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim shows on Saturday, July 17, at 7p.m. on the Raleigh's Cabana Grande.

This season, Hoffman’s muse goes on a mystical journey through the jungle. Expect to see variety of new silhouettes and several new eye-catching and ethnic inspired, bold and colorful prints. This year, Hoffman partnered with Alternative Apparel, known for their vintage soft tees and basics, for a special mini-collaboration for the show.

After flipping through the list of shows on the roster, this one's at the top of my go-to list. Watch for the post-show review this weekend!

KAWS: the first solo museum exhibition by the Brooklyn-based artist at The Aldrich Contemporary Art Museum

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The Sunday afternoon opening at the Aldrich broke all records. 1200 people came to see the multi-artist exhibit, many of them came to support Grafitti artist, KAWS. KAWS, [we’re not allowed to reveal his real name ie: the one on his passport/driver’s license] arranged to bus in his supporters from NYC and by the turn-out, it’s evident that this young artist is hot, on –fire, actually. He is known for “taking infamous iconic entertainment characters and subversively reinterpreting their appearances and personalities."The beloved ‘SpongeBob SquarePants’ was the focus of the large works on display.

We eventually broke our way through the human knot of admirers around him, thanks to the Aldrich’s effervescent Michael Blakeney, the museum’s Development Director, who made the intro. KAWS is soft-spoken and appeared somewhat uncomfortable with his fame; in the way actress Kristen Stewart is. When I asked him which of his collaborations were particularly memorable, he picked my favorite – the one he worked on with fashion photographer David Simms. The photos in the smaller gallery show a very young Kate Moss, at the start of her career with some interesting graffiti added on by Kaws. While seemingly shy, he really shines with young people. In spite of fans eager to speak with him, he took the time to draw on our friend’s son’s arm cast. He didn’t just scribble his name, but drew a cartoon, right on the spot for him, shutting everything [and everyone] else out as he worked.


On the walls of the sun-washed gallery were huge works of “Spongebob Squarepants” and other of his well-known street art, apparel, product, and graphic designs. As the press release stated, the exhibit “debut[ed] a selection of never-before-seen paintings, sculptures, and drawings which blur the conventional boundaries between art, design, and culture.”
The KAWS exhibit is an experience. Be sure to go and see it, you have until January 2, 2011. No excuses!


To learn more about the Aldrich, visit www.aldrichart.org

Image of the “SpongeBob” gallery, Courtesy of the Aldrich contemporary Art Museum

TheFE Reviews Tom Ford’s ‘A Single Man’

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The first words that came to my mind while watching this were, ‘haunting and moving’. Ford succeeds in establishing a deep personal connection regardless of your sexual orientation. Sex actually, has to my surprise, very little to do with what’s at the core of this movie. To summarize, COLIN FIRTH, plays the lead character – a man who’ s emotionally adrift once his partner of 16 years suddenly dies.
While he predictably goes down the road of contemplating a few flings with handsome boys 20 years his junior, and even a liaison with his best female friend [JULIANNE MOORE], nothing can replace the big gaping hole in his heart.
In a heart-wrenching twist of fate, on his last day of life, Firth decides to let go of his past, after a moonlight swim with his handsome student. The shocker comes when Firth falls asleep [alone] only to wake-up to die of a heart attack.
I’ll admit I had preconceived notions, namely that this film would be slick and glossy, as Ford himself appears. Perhaps though, that’s just what lays on the surface, and as with the film, there’s much more below the glossy surface image Ford presents to the world.
While I’m still hoping Ford will come back and design for Gucci again, I’m also hoping he’ll continue to make films such as this.
TWO THUMBS UP

THE CHANEL VIDEO – French Ennuie on the Cote D’Azur

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Being half-French, it’s a given that I love Chanel. What’s not to love? Coco was a character and one smart cookie, if we’re to believe the story line in “Before Coco”. That little black dress, tweed jacket and quilted handbag with the chain link strap, and “junk jewelry” have risen to the top of the heap in the “timeless classics” category.
Coco was great, but it was KARL who breathed life back into the ailing house. Under his watch, the stylistic tweaks he gives the classics are enough to provide the necessary newness retailers demand, season after season. Once upon a time, there were the spring, fall, holiday, and resort collections. Now, there are multiple pre-spring and fall collections – enough to make your head spin, like Linda Blair in “The Exorcist”.

As far as the short flick, “REMEMBER NOW” Karl created for cruise 2011, watch it, but know that the punch line comes at the very end, when Karl himself appears. If you’re TRULY pressed for time, allot 6 minutes at the end and watch the party dying down and the Kaiser’s arrival. [You’ll have to watch the full version, on www.chanel.com

Regardless of my irritation with the studied aimlessness of the fashion jet set, model/actress, ELISA SEDNAOUI in particular, as depicted in the film, I’m enough of a Chanel/Karl fan to still want to participate, albeit, in my own, indie way. That translates to a mini- spree with my Mother at the Chanel counter at the Danbury Square Mall’s Macy’s CHANEL counter.

Although the counter manager and Maman said I looked like a young-ish Coco Chanel, I nixed the bright red shade, and walked away with “Rouge Coco” formula #11 Legende [pink] and #132 [pink-mauve gloss] and the last bottle of #509 nail polish in “Paradoxal”. Okay, that is NOT really a word, and the gray color looks unattractive in the bottle, but strangely compelling, not unlike the color of wet cement, in the bottle. Once it’s on your nails however, the Chanel magic kicks-in. For under $100, it’s worth every penny to feel this pampered and luxurious, and to be able to pretend you’re part of Karls’ jet set world on the Cote D’Azur.

Viva, Karl!

R.SCOTT FRENCH’ s Men’s Relaunch – The Return of American Chang

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Images, Scott Punch, Courtesy of Richard Harris Inc.

Designer R. SCOTT FRENCH has been a friend for the past several years, but it's not just because we're friends that I'm a fan of his work. He's primarily a menswear designer and gained attention in the early part of this decade for his AMERICAN CHANG menswear collection. His number was on speed dial with many of the stylists who serviced the Rap and R&B Crowd. He and his phenomenal PR Director, MEREDITH GARCIA, took a hiatus from the mens design world and turned their energies to creating www.THEFASHIONLIST.com, an online service that provides a comprehensive, dynamic industry calendar of events and write-ups of some of the latest fashion trends.

Scott decided to dip his toe back into the menswear market and treated us to a sneak peak of the spring 2011 Richard Harris and American Chang Collections.
As before, Scott's big on the staples of menswear, crisp blazers and trousers in muted colors made from fine Italian fabrics - a rarily these days. A notable item was a cotton tee-shirt, designing with wrinkled fabric on the front side only.
The inspiration for R.H. and A.C. came from two sources: #1the though of creating the motif of a mushroom cloud from an atom bomb and #2- the Panza exhibit of Dan Flavin’s work with neon lighting in Varese, Italy.
It will be interesting to see how he blends these to together and to what result when he unveils the collections this fall.
Stay tuned.