The Fashion Examiner

I've Moved - to WordPress - finally!

2011-04-05T11:42:00.000-04:00

Everyone - thanks for your support the past few seasons.
Good news - TheFE has moved to WORDPRESS, as the publishing platform is WAY better.

Please update your bookmark for The Fashion Examiner.

We're now at http://www.thefashionexaminer.wordpress.com

See you there!

Best,

Vivian

Milan Men's Fashion Week: Winter 2012 - Burberry Prorsum Finale

2011-03-01T17:21:00.000-05:00

TheFE's Bids for Academy Award Dressing, Makeup, Hair and Grooming

2011-02-27T19:12:00.000-05:00

Hi Fellow Fashionistas -

I'm in the midst of moving over to WordPress.
Today's post on what I'd like to see at today's Oscars, www.thefashionexaminer.wordpress.com

See you there!

The Woolrich Black Label Debut by Paula Gerbase at fall2011 NYFW

2011-02-23T19:07:00.001-05:00

Text, Vivian Kelly
Hair and Makeup Commentary - Cassi Hurd

Hair and makeup play an important part in the overall look of a collection, as do the right accessories. With that in mind, I invited my friend, hair and makeup artist, Cassi Hurd to join me backstage to see Woolrich John Rich & Bros. ‘ launch of Black Label by Paula Gerbase.

In a somewhat comical blooper, [sorry – I deleted it from the video!] I asked Paula “where was the lingerie aspect” to her collection?” I’d hurriedly researched Paula that morning and came up with “British lingerie designer.” I couldn’t imagine how lingerie would play into a Woolrich Collection.

It does not.

It was no surprise that Paula seemed initially a bit taken aback before laughing and telling us, that her background is in Savile Row.

Aha. That explained the beautiful tailoring of the pieces the models posed in on the podiums outside in the shadowy Eyebeam Studio.

Until I got to Eyebeam Studio and met Paula, I’d thought of Woolrich as “in the country” plaid, red and black buffalo check, specifically.

Paula switched things up and delivered forest green and navy plaid – much more sophisticated. Green, one of the colors of the season, looked good. One of my favorite pieces was a semi-sheer wool overdress.

Paula describes the Woorich Black Woman as a female urban warrior-ess. She’s not slopping around in Lakeville or Kent Connecticut in her Muck Boots and red buffalo coat. Classic Woolrich will do just fine for those “in the country” weekends, but that is not what Black Label is about.

The Woolrich Black Label collection has a more sophisticated sensibility. Woolrich Black is for women who are concerned with braving the cold and wet streets of Gotham and the Windy City, London, Paris, or Milano in cozy layers on their way to work at their cool job at the Museum, Ad Agency, or Art Gallery.

The Black Label woman’s hair and makeup has that “done but not done” look that women from the above cities do so well. Paula told us that she chose to have the models’ hair up or down, depending on the neckline and proportion of the outfit she was wearing. This is a refreshing departure from the formulaic [and dated] concept of having all the models hit the catwalk in precisely the same hairstyle, which reminds me too much of Gianni Versace and Calvin Klein shows in the early Nineties.

For the fun of it, I mentally gifted myself the navy and green tartan jacket and picked some accessories to wear with it. My vision – attending Paris Fashion Week this coming fall, in the jacket, Tom Ford “Peter” or “Raquel” sunglasses and tuning out the noise around me with a matching pair of WeSc checked Bongo headphones in moss green.

These are just my suggestions on what to wear with these pieces. What would YOU accessorize them with? I'd like to know!

For more tips on how to work your hair and makeup, visit Cassi’s site, www.youniquechic.net

Where To Buy:

Woolrich Black Label will be available at Barney’s NY this fall.

All accessories mentioned, available at www.tobi.com

The Duckie Brown fall 2011 Show: Ruminating Backstage With the Duckies

2011-02-22T21:01:00.000-05:00

Text, Vivian Kelly

"Is this a 'men's collection" or a "women's collection?"
UGH.
Like Steven Cox, 1/2 of the Duckie Brown label, I find the question rather, well... dated. Perhaps a better word would be, "anachronistic"".
Back in the early Eighties, we had Grace Jones and Brigitte Nielsen. They looked FAN-TAS-TIC. They made the point that you could be masculine AND feminine - all at once. Both sported looks such as white "wife beaters" and "men's" black tuxes in now-iconic photographs. They helped spout the notion of "androgyny" which photographic legend, Helmut Newton, helped to make fashionable.
Another famous example is Bianca Jagger, back in her Studio 54 Days. Her most famous outfit was a white PANTsuit. In the Seventies though, it was considered "daring" to wear pants to work.

Then-Vogue Editor, Grace Mirabella, was considered to be "daring" to propose this as "a work option". As I later learned, as one of her Assistants, in the early Nineties, Miss Mirabella meant what she said. I cannot recall a SINGLe day she did not walk into the office in slacks. Her favorites were: Geoffrey Beene, Calvin, and Bill Blass, not necessarily in that order.

Even in the mid-Eighties, when I was going on my first job interviews, I wore SKIRTS - no question. Pants, were not really an option.
The whole topic seems ridiculous in retrospect. Just a year earlier, I'd gone on a road-trip to UVA [The University of Virginia] for a weekend of party hopping. The scene I lived out that weekend was straight out of Tommy Hilfigger's tailgate glossy ads. What's interesting is that when you inspect it closely, "preppy style" can ALSO, like "East Village Punk", look quite uni-sexual. We college co-eds were from a dozen or so different colleges and universities but we all looked like the frat boys whose parties we attended.
The uniform: Lacoste shirt [untucked], Levi jeans [unwashed and stiff] and Sperry Top or Docksiders. Sounds limiting? Not really, when you consider how many different colors the Gator shirt was available in.
Okay, I made-up that word, "unisexual". At the end of the day though, most of us are looking for clothes that we, as people, can just wear.
SOME "PEOPLE'S FAVORITES"
-The "wife beater tank
-Converse "Chuck Taylors"
-A really WELL CUT pair of trousers - Duckie Brown! Oftentimes, they will be black.
- Levi's original 501's. You need to break them in, it just takes time. Be patient.
-A Woolrich red and black buffalo plaid jacket
-Docksiders, the originals.

So, why can’t a man wear women’s clothes and vice-versa? Duckie designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver ponder the question in our pre-show interview, here.

Mark Indelicato aka “Justin Suarez” of Ugly Betty was backstage at Duckie Brown

2011-02-21T09:47:00.000-05:00

Text, Vivian Kelly

Mark Indelicato aka “Justin Suarez” of Ugly Betty was backstage at Duckie Brown, gamely posing for the photogs and video crews who pounced on him once they realized who the slight extravagantly dressed boy was.

Mr. Indelicato is a perfect example of someone [man or woman – does it even matter?] who “does his own thing”. He looked great, but what he was wearing would have looked just as good on a woman, the right woman, one who is secure in her own style.

This is pretty much the point. Why can’t a man wear women’s clothes and vice-versa? Duckie designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver ponder the question in our pre-show interview, which will run next week.

In the meantime, here’s a short clip of Mark Indelicato talking about his personal style and his thoughts on Duckie Brown.

The Nautica fall 2011 Presentation

2011-02-20T03:51:00.008-05:00

TEXT, Vivian Kelly

Interview with Menswear Editor, Mark Behnke of www.fashiontribes.com

When it comes to mens’ fashion, Fashion has always suffered with being labeled “elitist”, “not for the regular guy” or “too edgy”, and even “scary”.

Normally, during NYFW, I’m drawn to just such “directional” collections such as Duckie Brown’s [a big favorite], Andrew Buckler, and Siki Im.

This season, though, I decided it was time to be more “democratic” and see just what bigger consumer brands such as Nautica were proposing men wear in 2011.

As I walked the crowded show space with Mark at the Lincoln Center Library, I was reminded of a long-ago Christmas in the early nineties.

I’d just returned from Neiman Marcus and with a pair of Gucci horse bit loafers for my conservatively minded first husband. While in the thrill of the luxe buy, I’d reasoned to myself that they were “traditional” and that he’d approve.

I Was Wrong. Sad, but not really understanding WHY he wasn’t thrilled to receive them, I returned them on Boxing Day.

His explanation: He loved his Top Siders, always would and did not want to be “fashionable”.

My EX is one of legions of affluent guys who “want to look nice” but are not interested in clothes that would make them “stick-out” on the golf range, on a sail, sporting events, or Friday night poker night with the boys.

Nautica is a great choice for men of this ilk.
#1: It's no hassle- just go to Macy’s and you’re out in less than 20 minutes and back pursuing your leisure time activities.
#2L Fit – nothing skintight here that requires you to be a gym rat in order to fit into the more avant-garde brands. Asparagus silhouette not required.

3. #3: Traditional designs and themes. As Mark points out in our video, there’s a nautical theme that appeals to the traditional guy, and “safe” neutral colors.

None of the above is true if you happen to be a liberated metro-sexual type such as Mark, whose morning grooming lotions and potions rival the most “high-maintenance” woman’s. And that’s great! It’s probably “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy” that’s responsible for “regular guys” to start thinking in a more “directional” fashion and to consider fashion lines such as Duckie Brown, Buckler and Siki Im.

*The pre-show interview with the Duckies goes live here next week!

The Douglas Hannant De Robert Piguet Fragrance Launch at the Payne Whitney Mansion

2011-02-18T09:26:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Ever since reading Tom Wolfe's The Bonfire of the Vanities, I have secretly harbored a desire to meet "a social X-ray" and to attend the kind of posh parties that were part and parcel of New York's A-List Crowd in the 1980's.
My wish became a reality and was granted as the net sum of two specific occasions.

The first [Social X-Ray part] came true when friend, author and PR dynamo, John Tiffany, invited me to attend a round table at "The New Traditionalists" a to-die for design space in Soho during the Holiday Season. Fashion Icon, Iris Apfel was there, talking about her many collections but most importantly [to me] was that Carolyne Roehm [formerly Kravitz] was there, AND I got to meet her and have a conversation while she signed a copy of her latest book, A Passion for Interiors.
I learned a few things that evening: she's reinvented herself into a well-regarded interiors author, she's an avid Francophile, she's collected some of the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette's letters, the item that launched her passion for collecting was a Verdura bracelet [actually two, she bought the pair] back when she was a design assistant for Oscar de la Renta. Add to that: she also lives in CT., and she loves her Terrier dogs to the point of distraction, just as I love our Cairn.

The second part of my wish was granted during this NYFW when I stepped into the Payne Whitney Mansion at 972 Fifth Avenue with one of my BFF's, www.cafleurebon.com, Mark Behnke, their Managing Editor. He'd already sampled and written the review, which you can read about on his post which went live on February 9, 2011. I have always deferred to him in all matters fragrance and thus, went into the event with the intent of getting "the vibe" of the launch. Cafleurebon's Editor in Chief, Michelyn Camen,

also wrote an article announcing the fragrance's debut on January 8th.

A fragrance launch is A HUGE deal for any designer. It is a seminal moment that either breaks or makes you. In New York Society, everyone is far too polished and polite to tell a designer the bare knuckled truth if something doesn't come up to snuff.
In this case, no way. This was "a fashion moment" and the triumphant vibe was more intoxicating than the champagne that flowed on the second floor. If you succeed, everyone's more than happy to thump you on the back and party with you. By the tone at the Payne Whitney Mansion and the level of excitement, this launch was an "over the moon moment" for one of my favorite NY designers.

Douglas's partner, Frederick Anderson, pulled-away from the festivities to talk about how meaningful this collaboration is to the brand they've worked so hard to build for the past 15 years.

Score one for "the little guys" who are on their way to the big pond.

The Toni Francesc Show and Backstage w/ Toni Francesc, Pre-Show

2011-02-15T14:03:00.000-05:00

Text, Carey Zamarriego, Contributing Writer
Edited by Vivian Kelly

Toni Francesc

GARUDÀ AW 11

*Cute anecdote: One of the security guards at the front mentioned that Toni Francesc tried to enter the show through the front entrance, saying “look, that’s me, there is my name” (pointing to ‘Toni Francesc’ written on the wall) and had to be told to go to the backstage area.*

Our general impression of Toni: very warm, friendly, playful and gracious.

The Backstage pre-Show Interview:

The Fashion Examiner: The inspiration for your collection was the mythical Phoenix (a bird which, every 500 years, rises from its ashes anew), where did this source of inspiration come from? A trip to India? A story? A photo

Toni Francesc: It can be said to be Indonesian. It does have its roots in Asia, but this is not an Asian collection. It is inspired by the idea of rebirth, of coming back from ashes, from fire.

TheFE: Your collection is about renewal, is it also a commentary on the state of the world now after the crisis?

Toni Francesc: Exactly, mainly for me, because it is something I am living and experiencing. I refer to everything that surrounds me in my clothes. Spain is in a tough situation and all of us need to emerge and experience a rebirth, a renewal, from these moments of ash.

TheFE: At the time of creating your collection, do you think about trends and Pantone colors, or do you do whatever you want?

Toni Francesc: I believe that inspiration comes from other places. I don’t search out trends. If anything, I need to create them. Generally, I look at things outside of the world of fashion; that is where I am inspired more. Everything around me is reflected in my clothes. For Artificial Life, two collections ago (AW 2010), I met with a group of friends through Facebook, while we were having dinner, everyone wasn’t interacting with each other, but with others via technology, we didn’t experience the moment. It’s this; playing with simple moments and arriving at their complexity that I like to do.

TheFE: This is your fourth time showing at NYFW, how does it feel compared to the first time?

Toni Francesc: Ah, yes (giggles). I feel the same as the first time; really THIS is the first time. The nerves are always there, usually I appear to be very calm, but the nerves and my stomach are turning on the inside. But everything is under control and I hope it goes well.

TheFE: You and Custo are two Catalan designers showing at NYFW. Do you find any similarities in your designs? And are you two friends?

Toni Francesc: Friends-friends, no, but we do know each other and I really admire the work Custo does, he has been working hard for a long time. But our styles are very different.

TheFE: Finish these sentences:

What I like most about NY is…(the city and the people).

What I miss most about Barcelona is…(my family, but I brought them to NY, that little boy who just ran up to us is my son).

*Toni also brought along his wife and mother.*

The Collection/Show- Highlights

Started with a striking redhead wearing a trench, skirt and animal print top.

Animal print cocktail dress with a wrap leather belt (my favorite!!)

Elaborate backless silk jumpsuits in gray and orange.

Mixing silk with wool and leather. (ie: silk orange top with gray pants)

Silk pieces that looked like watercolors with splashes of deep reds, maroon, oranges and gray.

Trends:

Wide leg pants (black with backless high neck silk top)
Bright red lipstick on the models (also gave the crowd L.I/P Cream from Mehron in Big Apple red).
Wool jacket, trenches and dresses with bottons to bring in a bit of a military feel.
Gold leaf belts with gray wool dress and also skirts.

Happy Valentine's Day With Sarah Barton King and Darkly Audacious

2011-02-14T14:15:00.000-05:00

Text, Vivian Kelly
It's Valentine's Day and it's not too late to pick up something fabulous for yourself or someones special. I'm talking fragrance, not the tired overpriced red roses.

The topic here is DARKLY AUDACIOUS.
I'm here at the Lincoln Center Tents with my long-time friend, specialty perfumer, Sarah Barton-King talking about her latest fragrance, DARKLY AUDACIOUS, which got raves at the Elements and Sniffapalooza Fragrance Shows. D.A. had a soft launch at MIN NY in December in which Sarah regaled the audience with her brief which describes the fragrance as "dark, naughty and sensual".
To really get a good idea of what DARKLY AUDACIOUS is about you must read our friend, Mark Behnke's essay, on www.cafleurebon.com in late January.

The clock is ticking down so rush over to pick up a minaudiere or 50 ml. of pure perfume before they're gone because they are going fast.
It's at MIN New York, the Plaza Hotel Beauty Hall in New York City and Fred Segal in LA this spring and on www.luckyscent.com as well as www.beautyhabit.com

NYFW - fall 2011: Impressions, So Far...the Weekend Report

2011-02-13T13:30:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

It's Saturday night, and "I'm feeling alright" and prepping for round #2 which will kick-off Monday when I get to meet Woolrich's new designer.

So far, I've sat something like half a dozen shows, the incredible Douglas Hannant - Piguet launch party at the impossibly elegant French Embassy Uptown, dropped in at a few presentations and have eaten more tuna wraps at the Moonstruck Diner than I want to for the next six months, usually at the ill-advised hour of 11p.m. or so. Lucky for me, my metabolism wakes-up about that time.

Taking it back to NYFW, what wowed me was the quilted Chanel case for the Coco Chanel books at the Assouline Plaza boutique, Duckie Brown's shrunken white suit, a very interesting arty architectural jacket in gray and cream, an emerald green velvet skirt at Nicholas K, handsome models who could body double for Rob Pattinson, the much improved AOL Media Lounge in the Media Pitt spearheaded by the fabulous Tara Shashaty, in the Lincoln Center Tent.

Thanks to Tara (who was photographed and whom you'll see non-stop in any yellow cab you hop into], I got "a clue" about which eyebrow tool I should use. After the make-over, I bum-rushed the MAC Cosmetics store in Grand Central Station, and bought "brun", to fill-in my frankly icky, over-plucked brows.

This enlightenment took place in the posh www.stylelist.com
trailer across the street from the Tents. A few hours later, I fell in love - with a black wool and duchesse satin long dress at the Academy of Art University Show.

The next day. I hauled everyone from TheFE team out of their Madison Ave. temporary home to go and see the Libertine Collection. I had "a feeling". Happily for me, the Libertine collection was A-mazing - no "ifs, and or buts".

Offering a bit of pop culture and comic relief was the UNbelievable madness ANTM's "Miss J's" presence at the AAU show caused. I wasn't around when the Beatles debuted, but honestly, the stampede of female tweens and teens who rushed Jay was...."beyond".

Jay's presence will certainly rank in the top three moments of paparazzi frenzy-dom for the fall2011 NYFW.
Enjoy the show!

An Interview With Assouline's Robert S. Mitchell, President & CEO at NYFW

2011-02-11T18:24:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The Plaza-what a nice way to start NYFW! Assouline's pocket sized shop on the Mezzanine, is like a home away from home. It's a place I can find some serenity in NYC, most notably during NYFW and thumb through books on fashion, home, and interesting, stylish people.
Although I arrived at the very tail end of the Social Media Week Blogger Party, Assouline had organized, I got to interview the company's dynamic President/CEO, Robert S. Mitchell.
In the 18 months he's been at the helm, he's opened Assouline boutiques in key locations around the USA and now, the expansion is continuing abroad. It's heartening that people are still reading - not just on the Internet.
He made a point that is right-on: these types of books are not just books, they're a part of one's lifestyle and say something about who you are.
Watch the video of our chat to hear more about Assouline's continued roll-out and about some of the key books you'll surely want to have.

I left the Party with a copy of GYPSET STYLE, a smaller coffee book, by JULIA CHAPLIN

(HARDCOVER / 7.25 X 10.75"
180 PAGES, 150 IMAGES)

WHAT IS A "GYPSET"? "Gypsetters are artists, designers, and bon vivants who live and work around the globe. The New York Times journalist Julia Chaplin explores the unconventional lives of these high-low cultural nomads."

The Assouline PR team generously offered to have the authoress sign for me and then, ship it to my home in the country. I can't think of a better way to end a great week of fashion.
Look for the review - coming soon.

In the meantime, here's a teaser:

Casting Call! Duckie Brown Casts for their fall 2011 Show

2011-02-10T08:01:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

So what’s a real live model casting like? Like one for a big NYFW show such as Duckie Brown?

It’s been a while since I attended a big show casting, the last one was one I did somewhere around 2000 for Searle, when said brand was trying to become a player at NYFW.

I wondered if model casting would be tremendously different so many years later. I got to find out when Daniel and Steven invited me to sit –in on a day of their 2-day casting.

It’s not. The casting Director, Claire, took polaroids of the models who had been invited in [@ 80 on day 1 of 2 daysworth]. The model was asked to walk down and back as if they were on the runway. If that went well, they were asked to try on an oufit. It’s a process, yes, but a lot of it is intuitive.

I asked Daniel the “What are you looking for?” question.

In response, he stated, “We’re looking to cast whomever makes the look look best.”

Simon made it to the point where he walked twice, was asked his shoe size and to try a few outfits on.

At the end out of day 1, the Duckies had around 15 candidates. Said Steven, “We’ve got about 15 we like so far, the trouble is to sew them in together so that they all work together for the show.”

Shortly after my post-lunch arrival, Grant Woolhead, the stylist walked in and conferred with the rest of the group. Grant is Fashion Director of Out Mag, and this is the sixth season he’s working with the Duckies, helping them to cast their show.

As Steven pointed-out, not only does the model have to “work” individually, he has to fit in with the group. There are levels upon levels of casting hurdles to jump before a model makes the final edit and is one of the lucky few to walk the show.

Then there’s the walk, Daniel – “You have to have a mission. You have to work on it. Walk like you’re going to go cash-in a 15 million dollar check.” Simon left, vowing to practice his walk all night.” Shaking his dark head of hair out of his face he said, “Yeah, this is for me. I’m doing it for me.”

Tobi.com gets A Whole New Look That's Definitely Worth a Look

2011-02-08T19:33:00.001-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

UNTIL VERY RECENTLY, I WAS NOT that much of a fan of Internet shopping. By "shopping", I mean shopping for clothing or jewelry. In the past, my excursions on the Internet have yielded mixed results.
There was the red tartan plaid vest I HAD TO HAVE from Lands' End which I saw at a preview event. I was in the midst of my tartan phase and ordered it as soon as it showed up as "available" on www.landsend.com
I wore it once and back it went - it was too thin.
Sometime before that, there was the attempt to buy a "simple" one-piece swimsuit online through www.jcrew.com
I thought I had that one covered as I'd ordered several styles in size 2 and 4 - just to be sure. THAT ended up with a trip to the bricks and mortar store at which point, I gave up and returned everything. Happily, I discovered SWANKINI's mix and match bathingsuits at that low point.
[Swankini got a post a few months back on TheFE]
Maison Martin Margiela
Melly Suede Platform Ankle Boots

Recently, like everyone else, I'm fascinated by glam sites such as www.giltgroupe.com and www.ideeli.com and now most recently, with www.tobi.com
I'm proud to have TOBI.COM as my advertiser. The other sites are great, but....
I'm not knocking them, and I've bought a few smaller things such as luxury candles and towels and been very happy but I didn't like the competitive aspect of having to preview GILT the night before and competing for items I liked when the clock strikes 12 noon and the auction goes off. I belong to both but the "Sale ends in 1 day" bugs me as I'm usually just too busy to schedule this kind of thing in. What got me TO SHOP on the Internet in the first place was the notion that I could do it whenever I wanted. Can't sleep at 2a.m? No prob - start window shopping on the laptop until you're feeling productive enough to actually do some work, or relaxed, just go back to bed.

tobi's new site is a shop WHEN YOU feel like it proposition. Yes, there are sales [love those!] but they're on for a while. The biggest draw of the newly redesigned site is that it's practically goof-proof. I fell in love with two items, really hard. The first is a red and white stripe "twist tie striped halter dress" from Maison Martin Margiela that's perfect for my trip to Mexico in April. By spending a minute checking it out, I can see how the dress looks from every conceivable angle and because they even tell you the model's measurements, I can imaging how it would look ON ME.
Leslie, the model, is wearing a size small, and they even provide her measurements. Like any good personal shopper [which this site comes close to being] Tobi tells you about the designer, and provides styling tips. Not sure which accessories would work? No problem. Tobi suggests Melly Suede Platform Ankle Boots in Grey by ROSEGOLD and a Leather Triangle Cocktail Ring by HOUSE OF HARLOW.
Leather Triangle Cocktail Ring

Guess what? I clicked on those links and found that I LOVE House of Harlow and had always intended to investigate Nicole Ritchie's brand, but never got around to it. Tobi made it really easy and convenient. As some woman's bumper sticker read, "The New Busy is not the Old Busy", and as such convenience is key, critical really, when it comes to deciding between your many options.
In the end, I didn't find the stylish PJ's I'd hoped to locate on Tobi, but I DID find a missing item in my wardrobe AND it's on sale. The Matt Bernson "Gitanes Parisian Smoking Shoes" reduced from $154 to $92 are EXACTLY what I need to go with the vintage Rena Lange smoking suit I snagged for $35 at Deja Vu Consignment before Xmas.
Matt Bernson Gitanes Parisian Smoking Shoes

My only fear - that I've waited too long and someone grabbed the last pair of size 8's when I was busy writing this post.

Every fashionista has a story about "the one that got away". What's yours? I'd love to know! Share your story in the "comments" section of TheFE.
**LAST, but not least, use my unique promo code "EXAM20" for 20% off orders to all you readers who order after reading this post!!

Let the NYFW Previews Begin!

2011-02-06T13:44:00.001-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The shows are less than a week away and the previews are pouring in. Flattering, yes, and definitely a tad overwhelming when it comes to the planning part of the operation that's called "NYFW".
When Daniel Silver, 1/2 of Duckie Brown and I walked down the endless stairs from Studio 385 he got me thinking [really] about which designers REALLY ARE my favorites.
"You must have some favorites" he stated.
"Well yes, Duckie Brown, obviously, I laughed."
Daniel's question got me thinking on my way back to my car in the ChinaTown lot. Yes, I love Duckie Brown, but what else did I really care about?
The shows I look forward to seeing are the "smaller" and more "avant-garde" ones, even though they take place in New York, not Paris. As they're in New York, they should thus be "commercial". I'm sure my faves sell some clothes as they're still around and not road kill on the path of "used to be" designers. What makes the ones that most intrigue me stand out is the element of surprise.
I've got a few preview shots of some of these shows, and in some cases just a hard copy invite to share.
On the list
Duckie Brown
Buckler
Number Lab [new to me, but I loved the invite, so I'm curious]
Toni Francesc
Jeremy Scott
Academy of Art University [there's always a minimum of one "wow" student showing at this
Douglas Hannant

Number Lab pulled together a bunch of words that made me want to go and see for myself:

"Taking FLIGHT // ALPINE SKI-JUMPING
Colorado AIR FORCE ACADEMY // ELEVATION
CHIAROSCURO // Zaha Hadid’s BERGISEL Structure
ENDURANCE // NORDIC SKY // ALTITUDE"

Douglas Hannant is having an event held in his honor by Geoffrey Bradfield to celebrate the launch of Douglas Hannant De Robert Piguet.

Jeremy Scott? You just never know what he has in store. I've been a fan since his long-ago "Walk Like An Egyptian" collection.

ANDREW BUCKLER's theme for fall 2011 is "anonymous art" and the idea that "the urban arts and artists [use] the streets as a medium to communicate messages. Anonymous art fuels discussion as the artist questions the conventions of art."

Spaniard Toni Toni Francesc has as his pre-show teaser:

Phoenix: "Immortality and Renewal"

The image of a chic woman dressed in a drapey white blouse and sporting a Fedora and bright red lips doesn't necessarily remind me of a phoenix, but that's an outfit I'd like to wear, and that's a great starting point.

The [new] Limited: “Designer Flair. Quality Fashion. Value Pricing.

2011-02-04T12:49:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

If you were a young working professional in the Eighties, you knew all about The Limited. Back then; it was a great place to buy clothes for work that fell into John T. Molloy’s Dress For Success formula.

Most would have described it as "sensible". If you'd asked the girls if there were outfits there that were inspired and fashionable enough to wear to party at Area, the answer would be, "no".

There were “appropriate” and decently priced skirts, jackets, blouses and tops to get you through the 9-5 day whether you were a secretary at a Big Eight accounting firm on Sixth Avenue or a Sales Assistant on Wall Street, like me. If you were an Assistant at Conde Nast though, you probably wouldn't have shopped there.

Today’s Limited has split from the Mother Ship Company business [The Limited Brands] retail titan Leslie ["Lex"]Wexner established back then which also includes Victoria’s Secret. Lex, if you’re reading this – Vickie’s Secret was an absolute stroke of genius!

The NEW Limited that I was invited to preview by Paul Wilmot Communications, took place at a chic Chelsea space just off the Westside Highway. From the moment I stepped in, it was obvious that the merch that is now "The Limited" is the much cooler younger sister to her rather stuffy older Baby Boomer sister from the Eighties.

The new Limited targets “the young, professional woman” who needs great basics for work but wants the fashion from top tier designers who retail at stratospheric prices.

PR Paul Wilmot said, in a chat we had a few months earlier about what being "well-dressed", stated, "a black pant is a black pant, as long as it’s well made.”

After thinking about that, I agree with Paul. WHY spend hundreds for a pair of black designer slacks if you can get a nice pair for under $200?.

Of course, there’s nothing like actually trying the merch on yourself, so I went to the SALE area on www.thelimited.com and order two pairs of leggings to wear to power yoga class. [The review on this to come].

Back to the preview -

While there, I inspected the groupings of the latest designs, touched the fabrics, and best of all, spoke at length with Elliot Staples, SVP of Design, The Limited.

Elliot’s an industry vet who’s got 20 plus years of design and fashion under his belt. This FIT grad, began his career at Adrienne Vittadini, followed by a ten year run at The Gap designing for the men’s division, as well as women's and women's accessories.

He’s spent the last nine years at The Limited, first as a Design Director and later as Sr. Vice President of Design. He and his team’s job is to “conceptualize and create the product and look for The Limited client. Elliot has been instrumental in defining the brand image through consistent and innovative design. He's working hard to gain her trust and become the ‘trusted editor’, who she can count on to provide her with the latest trends translated for her lifestyle."

In our 9-minute video, Elliot talks about what he and the company are doing to become the go-to resource for today's working women and suburban Moms. He makes a lot of good points such as “A great outfit starts with great pants. And great pants start with great fits.”

He understands that his women want a little bit of the glam they see on the pages of Vogue an Harper’s Bazaar at a price that won’t break their budget. As important as fair pricing, is that The Limited is doing a good job sourcing their fabrics. The fabrics felt nice and that in itself puts The Limited on a level over “masstige” efforts at retailers such as Target. It's well worth a visit to the website www.thelimited.com and to the store if you find yourself in the Chicago area.

Karelle Levy and Her Arty Fashion

2011-02-01T20:19:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

About a week ago, I got a non-NYFW related email from “emerging designer” Karelle Levy.
I’ve known Karelle for years, ever since my then-editor at Lucire Magazine asked me to go visit her Miami studio. She picked me up in her Mini-Cooper and I stepped into a wonderland of brightly colored bolts of fabrics – she makes all of her own. What really blew me away was that she works on a loom – yes, a loom, as in what Sleeping Beauty pricked her finger on in the fairy tale.
The Email Read:
“It's Karelle from KRELwear.
I flew into town to show my designs at MTV’s SKINS party! What a blast!!
I’m in town for a week....in my Pop-Up Studio on a cobble stoned street in the West Village. I’d love to have you over for tea and show you my stylin' one of a kind KNIT fashions that have been featured on the fabulous Nicki Minaj, at the Scope Art Fair, The Standard Hotel gift shop, and various spots around the world.”

MTV, hmm. Interesting. I hopped into the Volvo and zoomed down the Saw Mill Parkway to finally check-out Karelle’s “Quickie Couture” project for myself, and maybe even to have her make me one.
It was great to catch-up. Krel’s found that “NY is so great for connections.”
These days she seems to be on a travel schedule rivaling ‘Michael Clayton’s’. She’ll be back in NYC in April/May, Miami in March (ongoing popups at the Standard and Lace2 Mani-Pedis in the Portofino towers) and Paris June/July and the Hamptons late summer.

Karelle’s a special designer because she’s managed to fuse her fashion and art sensibilities into a unique formula that works for her. True, she’s STILL “emerging”, but she’s still here, and her fans are still buying.
“True, she says in our chat as she whips me up my wave print vest, it’s a difficult time. It’s been really hard to stay in the game, the boutiques no longer exist, and the ones who remain won't be supporting emerging designers.”
Instead of throwing in the towel, Karelle is acting and using the social media to continue to gain awareness to her work. She’s fashioned a deal with MTV to dress the girls on MTV Skins in some adorable one of a kind dresses that glow in the dark. They really DO – we went into the bathroom, shut the door and the dress lit up like a rainbow when Karelle shone a small black light on it.
Her “Quickie Couture” project is her most successful project to date. Thus far, she’s whipped-up close to 900 of these pieces at pop ups including the big Scope Art Fair where her space was THE #1 booth, and turned into the place to go and hang. That’s just what her vibe is though: arty fashion that’s fun, friendly, and cool.

We talked a good bit about just HOW TO survive and even [gasp, succeed] in this recession/depression. Have a listen to the video to see what Karelle has learned along the way.

As far as the future, Karelle has this to say:
“What were going thru has never been seen, there's no template."

What she’d like to do in the future: “I would love to have a room in a museum where the models are dressed dayglo lurex.”

*Where To Find and Follow Karelle and her Krelwear
www.krelwear.com

www.krelwear.blogspot.com

THeHUnt: Project Vuitton Bag - Successful!

2011-01-29T15:28:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

A FEW MONTHS AGO, I bought a decrepit Louis Vuitton bag from Inga, one of my fave consignment sellers in Port Chester, NY at Deja Vu Consignments. It was just the right size - a big drawstring duffle, for $50, I knocked-over the woman by the counter [almost] to grab it.
Okay, so it didn't have a shoulder strap and the bottom was " a little bit worse for the wear and tear", but STILL.

I took my prize to Felipe, my shoe guy at SHOE SERVICE PLAZA for a diagnosis. I've spoken about Felipe before - his years as the resident fix anything gem at Shoe Service in New York City. That was the go-to place for all the fashion houses and magazines when it came to quality repairs to luxe accessories from Vuitton, Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy Choo.
This particular repair I was presenting Felipe with was going to be a doozie, but he was fascinated, and like the true craftsman he is, viewed it as a challenge.
We initially only added a shoulder strap and that lasted for a few weeks until the worn-out side straps inconveniently snapped while I was at the Orlando airport.

Back to Felipe and for some major cosmetic surgery.
The Prognosis - The Vuitton bag needs:
New leather base
New piping
New strap
New leather drawstring

With all of this, Felipe couldn't even guess what it would run but promised me "a good price". I gave over the bag to him and his brother and hoped for the best.

As you'll see from the before and after pics, this repair is nothing short of a miracle.
The cost: $90, but "heavy" repairs like this can run you in the $200s.

Resources
Shoe Service Plaza: tel: 203-297-6040, ask for Felipe.
www.stonyhillshoerepair.com
email: shoeserviceplaza@hotmail.com

Deja Vu Consignment
[Voted Westchester's Best]

tel: 914-481-1160, ask for Inga

The Debut of Ports 1961 - Men's - Classic and Suave Debuts at Milan Fashion Week

2011-01-27T10:48:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Yes, we're STILL in a recession, but some companies are not just "staying the course" as George W. [Bush] was wont to say, when faced with crisis. Duckie Brown is launching a women's line and their collaboration with Florsheim is expanding and there are other partnerships with big brands on the table. Michael Kors continues his push for world domination, following in the footsteps of Ralph Lauren. Ralph has opened a fabulous store to end all stores in NYC.
Most recently, one of my favorite "smaller" brands, Ports1961, is venturing into menswear. Ports holds a special place in my heart, ever since I attended their first small presentation in a studio in The Forbidden Zone [somewhere in the twenties and ninth or tenth Aves.] years ago. My friend, Mimi Liebeskin [one of the most chic women I've ever met] and I declared ourselves "in love" after the shortie presentation was over. Why? Because we both travel - a lot - and could imagine ourselves wearing every single one of these classic with a twist pieces, many in flattering neutrals in interesting fabrics.
Since then, the Cibanni sisters have stuck to their original aesthetic but have also taken risks - which I love - and is something that is normally reserved for "avant garde" collections one sees on the Paris runways.
One of the best was the "Patti Smith Collection" a few seasons back. Bingo. It was arty, intellectual and cool, like the chanteuse herself.
Ports debuted their PORTS 1961 Menswear Collection in Milan this month.
When Simone of Atelier PR sent me the announcement and pics of Ports1961 mens, I was initially stunned at how, well, "square?" the guys looked in their precisely cut suits and coats. Then, I "got" it. The men are a foil to the more adventuresome Ports women and there ARE some fundamental similarities when you start looking more closely.
Part of Ports1961's [women's] underlying DNA is its classic wearability. As PR Director, Tony Alcindor told me, "We try to make pretty clothes that women want to wear." It SOUNDS so simple, but it's not, really, but every season, despite some more avant garde inclinations, there are ALWAYS pieces that will find a long-term home in a woman's closet. Every spring, I eagerly take out my lipstick red zip front cotton sweater and celebrate the start of spring and not needing to wear a coat. In fact, it's already been packed for my April Puerto Vallarta trip.
Taking the conversation back to men's, this line is a collaboration between designers Fiona Cibanni and Ian Hylton. Ian's "a name" in the fashion biz, but I had to do a little research. Turns-out, Ian is THE EVERYTHING MAN. He's a merchant, creative director and designer. He started out in 1985, helping to launch Club Monaco later-on, helped to "re-invigorate" the Men’s business and to develop a brand extension for home called Caban. From there, he worked with Saks Fifth Avenue and launched Suede magazine. As Vice President of Ports International he's now flexing his creative muscle with Fiona for Ports Men's.

Ports1961 Menswear DNA:
Classical sculpture is at the core as is "the finest Italian tailoring and the most advanced fabrics to achieve the highest level of luxury. This collection reflects the quintessentially modern need to maintain an enduring classicism in today’s world."
The press release says it best,
"This season, Ports 1961’s menswear throws down the gauntlet to declare: from now on, only the best of everything...is good enough."
Who can argue with that?

Packing for NYFW/10-Day Trip to Paree

2011-01-25T21:00:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Nowadays, life is much ore homogenized. I used to rail against it, hated to see a McDonalds deface the Champs Elysee.
‘What, I asked, was the point of driving through America when everything now looks the same?’
Earlier this winter, I was in New Hampshire and then a week later, in Orlando. While on the road in my rental, seeking-out consignment stores, I had a sense of déjà vu. No mater where I was, there were strip mall centers with Applebee’s, McDonalds, Blockbuster, Staples, and Dunkin Donuts.

It just occurred to me though, that this homogenization could be a GOOD thing when it comes to travel. For the past few years, whether I’ve been packing for a week to attend LA Fashion Week, or NYFW or for 10 days in Paris, the contents of my suitcase are pretty much THE SAME.
This does NOT mean that I’m a boring dresser though.
It’s inevitable that I have to check my bag. A duffle-worth of clothes for a week away just doesn’t cut it. All that’s happened when I tried that “less is more” approach was that I had to buy a few things to supplement what I wish I hadn’t left behind.

Here are the items that are going in my rollie brown and white suitcase for NYFW/10 days in Paris.

There are a few ways to cheat, first and foremost being to wear as much as possible while traveling to your destination. Wear your heaviest coat, shoe/boot, and layer as much as possible.
In my case, that means I’ll wear: a black concert tee [The Runaways], with a heavy black turtleneck by UnderArmour, a black cashmere tee shirt and an oversize black cashmere Zoran hoodie over that. On the bottom, comfy jeans by Converse/John Varvatos, thick fuzzy sock and black Prada military lace up Boots. The outer layer is either a vintage fox coat or a dark brown subzero weight Lands End down coat that goes to midcalf. My head will be toasty warm with a navy/white pull on Under Armour fleece cap, and an orange plaid Burberry scarf will protect my neck.
A pair of REALLY warm gloves is on my shopping list, and a trip over to Dick’s Sporting Goods is on my list to fill in that gap.

In the suitcase, I always pack the shoes FIRST, as they take-up the most space. As the weather is nasty, and I’ll be on the streets a lot, the list is streamlined down to the aforementioned Prada boots, a shorter pair of gray square toed Miu Mix ankle boots with a flat driving sole, Chanel tan and black ballet slippers, black canvas Chuck Taylor sneaks, and a pair of J. Crew platform grosgrain flip-flops for the hotel room.
Next, underwear, 2 PJS and my thicker than thick Missoni hooded robe.

As far as clothes, Jeans rule the day. I limit it to 3 pair, and a pair of gray thin wale cords, a few Petit Bateau tees, short and long sleeves [red/white and navy/white].

Sweaters and jackets are the most important and a chance to have a little fun with the wardrobe. That doesn’t mean you’re not packing the basics – always a large space in the suitcase for them.
THE BASICS ARE…a black cashmere tee, a black merino or cashmere crewneck, a huge turtleneck [black and one in a fun color], sweater vests, and one LBD. My winter one is a long sleeve wool knee length number that looks very much like the dress Jacqueline Bessette was photographed wearing at a long ago MET ball.
Take two jackets, but make sure one is black. The other one can be tweed and if you’re lucky it’s got CHANEL on the label.
Accessories are where you can have a little fun. Scarves and necklaces take very little space and give your clothes a bit of individuality. Recently, I’ve become interested in pins, such as the “Duchess of Windsor” ones I wrote about in a Carolee Post last month.
All in all, the above will get you through your trip and if you hate black, just choose another neutral. All of the above black pieces can be subbed with all navy, or camel, or white pieces.
Bon Voyage, and see you at the shows!

THe HUnt in a Berkshires Winter WonderLand

2011-01-21T07:55:00.001-05:00

Text, Vivian Kelly
I LOVE THE BERKSHIRES - specifically that little pocket of the world that includes Stockbridge, Lakeville, Interlaaken, and now, Great Barrington.The Red Lion Inn, the piece de resistance at 30 Main Street in Stockbridge has been on my "LOVE!" list since I was seven years old, and my Papa took me swimming in the pool there. Since then, I've stayed at most of the buildings, including the O'Brien and Stevens Houses with two different husbands and in all four seasons at some point. My most recent trip was this past Martin Luther King weekend, where we stayed in the Main House, on the Third Floor, right across from the Library. What could be better? With plenty of time to explore, we walked the floors, checking out the display cases, and the Norman Rockwells on the walls, and looked for SIMON, the pampered "house cat". Simon is a celebrity at the Red Lion, you can even buy pictures of him in the Gift Shop downstairs. Another great thing, pet lovers, pets are actually welcome at this lovely 4-Star Establishment - gasp. Just remember, we're not in France, so they can't hang in the dining rooms and sit on your lap when you're downstairs in the Lion's Den enjoying the live music. That aside, it was amazing to step back in time and take the historic birdcage elevator up to the room and to wake-up and go down to breakfast without ever having to go outside. Of course, THe HUnt is always on, and this weekend was no exception.The score this time was next door, at Seven Arts, at 44 Main Street. We went in to kill 10 minutes and to warm-up and left 45 minutes later with 4 fabulous LIFE Magazines which I'm getting framed to display in the Home Office.There were tons of pop culture ones to pull from but the winners who went home with me: Jackie O, Jane Fonda, Ingrid Bergman, and an anonymous [but very glam] young couple living the gypsy life in Greece in the Seventies. I went a little overboard, but they had a deal going on, buy 3 get 1 free, so....Anyhow, the total only came to $37.08 for unforgettable images of 3 of my fave fashion icons.The other score was in Great Barrington, which is FAR more chic than the run-down town I remember from years past. If you're pressed for time, hit SOCo, have some of their famous ice cream and then a cup of Harney's chamomile tea to warm up and go right across the street to KAREN ALLEN Fiber Arts. I am most definitely NOT the "crunchy granola" type of girl you see in places like Park Slope, Brooklyn, so my galpal D., had to talk me into going in. D. has incredible personal style and I "die" every-time I visit her current living space, so anytime she tells me something is great, I go with it, because she's always right, whether it's about someplace in Nantucket, Ridgefield, or now, Great Barrington. We discovered colorful children's hats in the back, handmade by Karen's sister, Kathleen Crawford. I restrained myself, and bought only 1 of the 3 I liked, but like Arnold [Schwarzenneger] so famously said, "I'll be back."

Lodging and Shopping Info

The Red Lion Inn
30 Main Street
Stockbridge, MA 01262
(413) 298-5545
(413) 298-5130 Fax
www.redlioninn.com

Seven Arts
44 Main Street
PO Box 520
Stockbridge, MA 01262

(413) 298-5101
www.rockwell-stockbridge.com

Karen Allen Fiber Arts
8 Railroad Street, Great Barrington, MA 01230
Tel: 4135288555www.karenallen-fiberarts.com

Weekend Pictorial: WinterWonderland +THe HUnt in the Berkshires

2011-01-21T05:48:00.001-05:00

Text, Vivian Kelly

A few days ago, I blogged about my fave fashion pundit, and fashion PR man, Abe Gurko, and his work with Reeve Carney and his band for the Monarchy Collection lookbook video. collaborated to redo Monarchy’s somewhat stale image.

If you missed the post, here’s the link to it so you can watch Reeve and Zane in action working the Monarchy Collection.

http://thefashionexaminer.blogspot.com/2011/01/chat-with-abe-gurko-my-favorite-fashion.html

Once you’ve watched today's video of Abe talking to me about his work with Reeve and Zane Carney on the Monarchy lookbook, you’ll see that Reeve's got the package going. He’s stylish, can sing; seems he can also act. We’ll all bear witness to that sometime in March, barring further delays to the delayed opening of the much-anticipatedSpider-Man: Turn Off the Dark.

The new Broadway opening date is set for March 15. What they have on tap sounds well worth the wait and seemingly endless postponements. Previews started way back on November 28, but the announced opening dates in December 2010, January, then February 7 fell by the wayside like a bunch of dominoes collapsing.

The new and we hope, final new opening date is March 15^th. According to a statement released by lead producer Michael Cohl, the delay is needed to give the creative team more time to "fine tune" certain aspects of the show and…. A new ending!

In addition to the stylish Reeve Carney as “Peter Parker aka Spidey”, there’s music and lyrics by Bono and The Edge of the band U2, and a book by director Julie Taymor and Glen Berger.

Maybe this production has gotten all of its bad luck out of the way and we’ll get our socks blown-off in March. In any case, I’m looking forward to Abe’s commentary post-show.

A Creative + Cultural Snow Day: Redecorating + The Last Picture Show

2011-01-13T11:03:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Yesterday brought the third blizzard of the winter, but, as Rhett Butler so famously said to 'Scarlett' in Gone With the Wind, "frankly, my dear, I couldn't give a damn."

Why? What?!

No, I'm not part Aleutian or soft in the head.

I just need to be forced to stay home to have the excuse to indulge and work on some projects that are near and dear to my heart.

First - there was the ongoing redecoration of TheFE Home Office inspired by a page in the Farrow & Ball catalogue I picked up at Robert Verdi's Luxe Lounge last NYFW. To say that attaining the garden gazebo look on the page has been obsessing me these past few months is an understatement. Yesterday, I finished the cream trim and applied the first layer of 'arsenic' paint on two walls - only partially though.

While rolling away, I had the stepladder strategically placed so I could watch The Last Picture Show on my little Home Office TV, rigged only for DVD watching. I had the Comcast Cable guy do this as part of a commitment to watch old Hollywood Classics, Art Films, and anything else that promises to have good sets and costumes in it.

Last weekend, Victoria, my favorite Reference Librarian, raised a well arched brow when I asked her if they had The Last Picture Show on DVD, and 'was it in'?

We both agreed that the movie was worth watching if only for the pool scene in which a young gorgeous Cybill Shepherd 'Jayce' literally and figuratively strips-down, shedding her pristine white foundation garments and innocence, while poised on the diving board.

I wound up of course, getting wrapped-up in the movie and what should have been a one-hour painting job extended into three, four even. I played back over portions of the black and white masterpiece to hear scenes I'd missed while turning my head towards the wall.

While I said I tend to watch movies for their visual bang, this one has a h--l of a good story attached to it as well - several stories in fact.

First and foremost, there's the indescribably gorgeous 'Jayce'. Directed by Peter Bogdanovich, Cybill got across beautiful and cruel character of 'Jayce" who as the iMDb reviewer captured in this description, "Jacey is Duane's steady, wanted by every boy in school, and she knows it. Her daddy is rich and her mom is good looking and loose. It's the general consensus that whoever wins Jacey's heart will be set for life."

She looks great in every single frame and I'm seeing references to her style in her every outfit:

The party dress - Christian LaCroix's "poof"
The foundation garments she strips-down to at the party -Eres swimsuits
The plaid shirt, dungarees - Abercrombie & Fitch
The white shirt tied under her breasts in the pool hall scene - Guess Ads for the last 15 years
The slippers in the opening car necking scene - Chanel slippers

'Picture Show' gave me much more than I'd bargained for. In addition to the clothes, there's a little bit of a history lesson here about what it was like to live in West Texas in the fifties. Some things never change, all small towns rely on sports, the social pecking order, sex, secrets, and how tough it is to come-of-age.

Today, the bamboo trellis wallpaper arrived, as the UPS Man bombed through nearly two feet of snow to deliver it to my garage. My biggest challenge now is to find another movie that will equal or top 'Last Picture Show' as I resume painting the next wall tomorrow.

Any suggestions?

Item of the Month: Capes! Be a Caped Crusader This Winter

2011-01-11T21:27:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

About a year ago, I was digging around on yet another HUnt, this one at the Cromlix Antiques Barn, on Barrack Hill in Ridgefield, with the intent of maybe leaving with a print of a King Charles Spaniel or a Greek Key Cachepot. That time, I never made it upstairs as I stopped in my tracks when I spotted a red cape. Prior to this encounter, I'd dismissed capes as something that only worked if your name was SuperMan, Sherlock Holmes or Little Red Riding Hood.
All that went out the window after my Dutch Mother-in-Law surprised me and bought said cape, presenting it to me as a wedding gift later on that weekend. As soon as I tore the gift wrap off, I started wearing it during the relatively balmy November month, and it's a permanent fixture in the backseat of my car.

This simple item was a novel addition to my trusty but tired Michael Kors car and pea coats that were as the Stones sang, "A Little Worse for the Wear and Tear".
Rather than being given odd looks, to my surprise, I got complimented. It seems that the erstwhile theatrical cape is now a fashion item. Just recently, I lapsed and succumbed to my form of junk food - a copy of STAR Magazine - I wanted to read about Angelina Jolie's "Heroin Shocker! WASTER! REHAB FOR ANGIE". While flipping through, I found my way to p.60-61, a spread titled "Crazy for CAPES". STAR showed some cute styles by TopShop, Esprit and Guess by Marciano Linley, all under $240, less than you'd pay for a decent coat.
Best of all, my red vintage [$75] find resembles the best of the four shown on the chosen stylish starlets: Kate Hudson, Kim Kardashian, Kristen Bell, and Sienna Miller.
The winner: Sienna Miller. The STAR doesn't say who hers is by but the Topshop cape at $170 makes for a nice substitution.
Other places to look for some well-priced options are Lord & Taylor [near the hats and gloves] and on www.qvc.com

A Chat With Abe Gurko - My Favorite Fashion Pundit

2011-01-11T19:49:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

I recently got the opportunity to drop into my favorite fashion pundit's downtown NYC headquarters. Abe Gurko is a fashion veteran who in the course of his career has worked with Carrie Fisher and assisted her in some insanely funny press situations [he talks about that in our video next week].

Recently, he's one of Anna Wintour's biggest supporters for her Fashion's Night Out Initiative to his latest project - reinventing and repositioning the Monarchy Collection, by way of a cool video. I'd seen the "old" Monarchy collection at past IMG-LA Fashion Weeks and was reminded of old eighties bands. I couldn't really envision current rockers wearing the ripped and acid washed pieces. The current collection however = a whole different story. The video [watch it here, below], features

Reeve Carney and his band, Carney. Abe styled them in this fashion / music video which functions as an interesting look book for Monarchy Collection featuring the song Testify from the film Machete.

Carney is the star in the highly anticipated Broadway production of Spider-Man: Turn Off The Dark, directed by Julie Taymor.

My only disappointment about our 1/2 hour together was that we didn't get to do the interview on the bed - the classic Abe interview spot. Bad luck, the housekeeper needed to straighten-out the bedroom that morning so Abe, and I and his two micro-pups conducted our business on the front office couch. Oh well.

Anyone and everyone is potential fodder for Abe's blog, www.imeanwhat.com. No one is too high or mighty or inconsequential if they happen to irritate him. Abe's an avid newshound - he reads the papers in the a.m. like the hedge fund boys scour The Financial Times, Barrons, Wall Street Journal and Investor's Daily.

One of the funniest of his posts which also ran on The Huffington Post - to which he is a regular style contributor - was so on point that it inspired me to whip up my own post here, on TheFE about M. Cardin's unfortunate decision to throw all 200 pieces of the proverbial "kitchen sink" on the Paris runway last season.

One person we both feel positively about is Anna Wintour, for her Fashion Night's Out initiative. Okay, I'll admit that I wasn't singing its praises a year ago, on the first one. Back then though, I was looking at it from a hard-nosed financial perspective. "Where, I wondered [and asked everyone I ran into] are the numbers? DID THEY make $$?"

After the couch time with Abe and actually experiencing a few uptown events with friend, Mark Behnke, of www.fashiontribes.com, I was of a different mind. The evening with Mark and the talk months later with Abe got me thinking that maybe what this was REALLY about was to lift morale and to get people out on the streets and in the stores. It's a one step at a time thing. Rome was not built in one day right? Neither will the economy boomerang back into total health and shoppers swarm to the stores and happily pay full price anytime soon. For now, let's be happy that Anna and FNO is getting us excited about shopping again.

Pictorial - Jan 2-9 - Getting Into the Groove of 2011

2011-01-09T17:31:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

It was a slow start to the New Year - a nagging sinus infection kept me close to the CT Home Office but it wasn't a total wash.

The highlight - we're fostering a baby - a 6 month old Cairn Terrier, named Jacqueline ["Jackie-O" in our house, in honor of said fashion icon]. It's COOOLD out here in the Country so a shopping trip was required to beef up her collection of winter sweaters. Saturday, after much discussion about whether pink or green would be best, we compromised - on a pink and green sweater with a large embroidered strawberry on the back.

It was also a week to see what new fashion books there are out there. After a trip to Borders' Book Store in Stamford, it seems the pickings as far as fashion books go is slim. The notable exception was the self-titled coffee table beauty, Tom Munro, with the introduction by Madonna and a gorgeous black and white image of Madge on the cover warrants further investigation. Another book to look at is Locals Only, with a great cover of two quintessential Cali Girls - all real, no lipo. Must have been what the Beach Boys were crooning about in all those early songs of theirs.

We made the obligatory trip to the mall, stopping-into Forever21 and Charlotte Russe, just to see how desperate retailers are in January. I bought a joke-riff pair of purple knit Ugg-style slipper boots at Charlotte Russe for $5. NO, it's NOT a typo - Five Dollars.

Last but not least, I continued my on-going investigation into how to get the most durable AND hassle-free nails currently available. This HUnt started in Orlando, when bored, I hopped into my rented Sebring convertible and went to the nearest nail salon. Once there, I quizzed the nail tech on the various options - gel or acrylic. We decided on a full set of acrylics for $30 and I was one happy camper for 4 days.

After the initial honeymoon period, the ugly regrowth bump emerged and I got a poor set of fills at the local CT mall which set me back $30.

Disillusioned, I paid $15 to have them take off after an unsuccessful 3 day attempt to soak them off at home. The removal process was the nail tech drilling-through the acrylic and then removing the left-overs with a Metro Card. No kidding, really! He managed not to hurt me. Once I arrived home, I applied a coat of Sally Hansen's Gel. The alternative is to pay $42 at the Adam Broderick Salon for professionals to apply the CND [Creative Nail Design] gel - mixed with a nail color] on me for $42. For now, the cheapie at-home experiment continues. Results in - sometime next week.

Harney and Sons - A lesson on Tea Making With Michael Harney

2011-01-07T11:07:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Our winter trip to visit friends in Lakeville, CT ended up with a stroll through Millerton, NY, just off Route 22. My primary target destination was 15,000sq.ft. Millerton Antiques Center, where I hoped to find a piece of 1920's or Thirties' gold jewelry to take home at a nice price. After nearly an hour, a victory! I left with a sapphire channel eternity band set in 18K gold for $80 with a few missing baguettes, which I will not replace, as I like ring's antique look, as is.

After a successful HUnt, I was open to Sandy's suggestion that we visit Harney & Sons, a little further down the road. Part of the motivation was the possibility that I might sight Keira Sedgewick, who's apparently a regular there. [She was not there]. In we went, me clutching the remainder of my cafe latte from the Irving Farm Coffee House.

I was most decidedly not a tea lover before walking in that day. Meeting Michael Harney changed all that. The charismatic founder of Harney & Sons was making a rare personal appearance at the store and graciously talked about tea, how to brew it and why his are so wonderful in our short video interview below.

Although my visit to Millerton was on THe HUnt schedule, I wasn't expecting to shoot an interview that day, so I only had my Blackberry on me - sorry for the shaky vid!

Sandy introduced us and I tried unsuccessfully to hide my coffee cup as I was now officially in the land of fine teas.

Michael showed us and let us sniff various blends, some so delicious that people have been known to use them as potpourri.

After the tutorial he gave us on how to brew "a perfect cuppa", I dallied over the adorable Union Jack tea mugs and finally bought a travel tin of the Holiday Tea. Now that I know better, I'm hopping online to buy a full size tin as the travel one didn't even last me a long weekend away in Orlando.

I have a feeling that the Harney's in Soho at 433 Broome Street will be one of my main watering holes over the upcoming NYFW.

Keep up with the super busy Michael Harney and learn some more about some really great teas at www.harney.com

Miracle Vintage Restorations from THe HUnt - Louis Vuitton and Chanel

2011-01-05T17:32:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

I love old things - that is, old, beautiful vintage things. Two items from recent HUnt episodes are: a ruined beyond repair Louis V. monogram large sized drawstring bag and a pair of worn-out Chanel slippers.
Where some people see ruin, I tend to see potential, especially if I can pick-up said item for a few $.

The bag was missing a strap when Inga at Deja Vue Again sold it to me. She didn't have to do much selling, as I pretty much almost knocked-her up against the cash register to grab it before someone else spotted it [even though no one else was in the consignment shop that moment]. I left with it in a plastic Burberry bag, having paid $50 cash.

A few weeks later, I succumbed and made a deal with Inga to buy the Chanel slippers - badly scuffed and in need of new heels - for $65. Pre-Xmas, I'd passed at the $85 she wanted for them, citing "high repair costs".

Now, with my two latest treasures in hand, I set-about going to my go-to shoe repair guy, FELIPE, at Shoe Service Plaza in Bethel, CT. Felipe was one of the right-hand shoe and bag repair experts at the former Shoe Service in Midtown Manhattan in the Nineties. Back then, Shoe Service, was not just any old shoe repair shop - it was THE shoe and bag repair that Vogue and Harper's Assistants had on speed dial for fashion emergencies. It was also conveniently located near the old Manolo Blahnik store and the fact, that according to Felipe, the owner spoke half-a -dozen languages, was extremely helpful.
Today, lucky for me, Felipe and I have found one-another, thanks to friend Pat Murphy, who runs Bring-N-Buy Designer Consignment with her daughter Tina. Since Pat told me about Felipe a few months ago, Felipe and his brother's shop are on my speed dial today, in 2011 and #78 Stony Hill Road - Red Wood Plaza is on my weekly circuit.

The Projects So Far -
The Chanels - done! Picked them up today. Total cost of new heels, half sole and fixing the torn leather= $42.

The Louis Vuitton Bag - a work in progress. The guys have located just the right piece of lambskin to refashion the strap that goes around the body and they're working on redoing the bottom. I'll have it - "soon", but I'm in no rush. Good things are worth waiting for.

The Holiday Week Pictorial: CT and Westchester County

2011-01-03T12:44:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Pictorial of the Week: the December 27 - January 3 week at a glance

I just LOOOVE a mellow New Year's Eve. The last time I was into "the scene" on Dec. 31st was at a long-ago "Oui Magazine" party at a penthouse loft somewhere in Downtown NYC circa 1986. Don't ask why I was there but after THAT I know how Truman Capote and Jay McInerney felt as the "social chroniclers" of their respective decades. I've put Party of the Century by Deborah Davis, in my www.Amazon.com cart and can't wait to pore over the black and white images from Mr. Capotes's famous party, which he threw for himself to celebrate his mega hit In Cold Blood in 1966 and an example of what an "A-List Party" really means. If you were an "anyone" ie: Frank Sinatra, Mia Farrow, Babe Paley, Slim Keith, C.Z. Guest, you got to go. If not, forget it. Mr. McInerney capture the debauched preppy zeitgest of NYC in the Eighties like nothing else I've ever read. Michael Fox did a nice job in depicting the lost unnamed character [presumably Mr. McInerney] in the film version. If you haven't seen it, do.

New Year's Eve was the chance to finally wear all of the vintage goodies I'd accumulated on that particular HUnt. The days after were about avoiding boring football games on TV, catching-up on some movies [Valley of the Dolls, True Grit, Marcello Mastroianni's A Slightly Pregnant Man, and Salt.] We finally made it to the Westchester Mall to see

what big designers had on sale. Neiman's was disappointing in that merch was only 33% off. Bad for me, but perhaps a sign that the economy is cautiously creeping back up, at least at this level of the population. Just last year, high-end retailers were slashing prices to the bone, past 60% to get their well-heeled customers back in the door. In any event, it was fun trying on a candy pink Oscar de la Renta fur vest, and a few Marc Jacobs coats - just because.

The week ended well - I discovered butter London "Mistress Champagne" Luxury Lotion in Adam Broderick's Salon, where I went-by to ask about CND's new gel nails. I passed on the gels but went home with the big 200 ml bottle of "Mistress" for $18. My new paraben-free and vegan lotion got me excited about what nail magic b.L's Nonie Creme will be performing backstage at NYFW next month.

To shop the full range of butter London products, visit www.butterlondon.com

The END of THis HUnt- Happy New Year!

2011-01-01T10:50:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Cheers and HAppy New Year!
It's getting on to noon, January 1, 2011. The snow is piled-up outside the French window of my home office, Sylvester is playing "You Make Me Feel Mighty Real" on the ipod, my new Rigaud Cypress Candle is burning, and we're going to see TRUE GRIT, because I got swept away by the editorial in the January issue of W mag.
The HUnt to accessorize my evening ensemble [L.A. Schulman, White Plains NY - on the label] ended well, as at the 11 1/2 hour I found an acceptable shoe at DSW yesterday, around 2p.m., a mere 5 hours before we were due to arrive at the party.
The gold satin peep toe sling back by Nina I settled on at DSW was a bargain $49 minus 30% and the heel was just high enough for the rolled hem of the vintage gown to avoid dragging and acting as a broom.

In the end, when in came to the hair and makeup, I mixed and matched the advice of B. Michael [slicked-back hair], Erin Simmons [black eyeliner] and the friendly MAC Cosmetics Girl "Girl About Town" MAC Cosmetics lipstick.

New Year = New HUnts
All of this vintage activity has me reenergized to resume my studies of two women who currently fascinate me: Wallis Simpson and Anita Pallenberg. After a rushed pre-New Year's Eve chat with gal pal Theodora Brack, the Paris Correspondent of www.eurocheapo.com, we both promised each other we'd hop onto www.amazon.com and buy "The Darkness of Wallis Simpson"

by Rose Tremain and compare notes in late Jan.

It's a new year now and THe HUnt resumes, this time with a focus on What Will I Wear for the 7-10 Days of New York Fashion Week?
WHAT merits being packed into the small rolling suitcase I'm limiting myself to.
The black Valentino top I found three days ago at The Fashion Exchange is calling my name....

Shopping Information
Dress - McGeorgie's Antiques & Consignments
Tel: 203-270-9101

The Fashion Exchange
tel: 203-791-9002

DSW
www.dsw.com

The HUnt- Continuing To Accessorize a Vintage Gown and William Rast for Target

2010-12-30T10:47:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Yesterday, I resumed The HUnt [the one in which I am seeking to accessorize my Fifties Vintage dress for New Year’s Eve.
Yesterday, a visit to The Fashion Connection 2, where I remember there being a surfeit of wedding style silk shoes yielded very little. The most promising candidate was a pointy heel cream silk Gucci with a monstrous 4” heel and only secures to the foot with a thin ballerina style ribbon.
I’m making my last ditch effort today and tomorrow, which will include which will include visits to DSW and TJ Maxx. If none of those work out, I may go back and get the Guccis and just find a seat and spend the evening on my bum, getting up to circulate for 5 minutes here and there.

The trip to the Consignment Shop though, was not a total waste; I left with a baby blue DKNY oversized turtleneck sweater slashed down to $12.

I passed [for now] on a skinny little black Valentino top with a self-belt and silver tone buttons I’ll stop in next week to see if she’ll come down in price.
There’s usually a silver lining to everything, and yesterday’s quest was no exception. I’d been intending to investigate the William Rast for Target collection ever since I received emails from LaForce & Stevens PR that Justin Timberlake’s line would be in store soon.
Only last week over coffee, I’d told couture designer friend, B. [Michael] that I wasn’t going to drag myself to Target to look. The plan was to order a few pair of the jeans and to try them on at home.
Feeling a bit grouchy about my non-success vis a vis the shoe hunt, I decided to drop into Target since I was out and about anyhow. Key to this decision – I’m listening to the audio version of Keith Richards’ LIFE book on CD and it is great!
Nothing like a good Book on Tape to keep me motivated.
Once in Target, I focused on finding Rast. The display in the Bethel store was so small that I started to walk out before I caught sight of the understated signage that was overwhelmed by glaring displays for Mossimo.
Into the dressing room I went, with 4 pairs of jeans: 2 in dark denim “skinny leg” and 2 in a faded medium color with a bootleg cut. Sizing tends to err on the small side – unlike the Isaac Miz collection. A size “3” = a 25 waist in Rast, and a “5” = a 26 waist.
They’ve got a little bit of stretch to them and aren’t bad, actually better than I’d expected, coming in at $49. The deciding element for me was the thin-ish denim fabric. I walked-out sans jeans. If and when they go on clearance, I’ll probably pick up the medium denim and road test them and see how they fare in the wash.
Conclusion – for a Target –Designer Collaboration, this one was pretty good, and the quality a notch over the previous Rodarte, Zac Posen, and Jonathan Saunders Collaborations.

On the schedule for today, a trip to the fabric store to pick up thick satin ribbon to sew on to the vintage dress to as B. Michael said, “harness” myself into the dress, one more stab at finding the shoe, an a trip to the Aveda Salon to confer with my CT- go-to hair guru, Erin Simmons, about the hair style to best complement the dress.

Regardless of the outcome, I’ll be wearing the dress and putting up pictures. Hopefully, the final result will be a fashion “Do” not a “Don’t”.
I’ll let you write-in and decide!

This Week's Pictoral - the HUNT Begins in Earnest

2010-12-26T17:50:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

This week, which yes, included Christmas Day, was nonetheless dominated by the fun problems presented by most recent acquisition while on THE HUNT. The dress [no coat] will be the centerpiece of my New Year's outfit. Pamme is going to the bother of bringing-out the fine china, crystal and champagne. While I love my black wool and taffeta Vera Wang dress, it's too minimalistic. For this occasion, more is more, and as such, better
The dress is the centerpiece, but it comes with its unique set of requirements: the right hair makeup, shoe, and jewelry.

I won't take-off my platinum and diamond wedding band, but other than that, the only jewelry I'll wear is the starter piece in my Miriam Haskell collection - a pair of pearl and gold clip on earrings. If you're not familiar with Miriam Haskell Costume Jewelry, here's a little 411 from ww.miriamhaskell.com
Miriam Haskell has been synonymous with impeccable style and beautiful jewelry since the 1920’s. Haskell Jewels, headquartered in New York City, is a leading designer, marketer and distributor of costume jewelry. Founded in 1926 by Miriam Haskell, she established her brand name as one that represented, and continues to represent, the utmost in style and quality by creating hand crafted jewelry with keen attention to detail.
While the company is busy with initiatives that involve some of the majors such as Macy's and Nordstrom, it is her VINTAGE pieces that I consider "true Haskell" and which experts such as Camilla Dietz Bergeron deem worthy of collecting.

Below, some shots of the journey on this phase of THE HUNT.

THe HUnt- Accessorizing a Vintage Gown for New Year's Eve

2010-12-25T08:35:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The thrill of the hunt –

I got sucked-in when I was 25 years old, and working for a powerful battleaxe of a woman on Wall Street in the late Eighties. With a boyfriend who was living thousands of miles away in Texas, I had my only day off – Sunday – to do as I pleased. That’s when I discovered designer goods for less. I’d heard that there was a good designer flea market a few miles North of my former High School,

Greenwich High. I borrowed my Father’s baby blue Olds and after getting lost a few times, finally found it and Susan and a lifelong passion for the hunt.

Susan Munson changed my life because after buying my first few important pieces from her, I started what was to become my life-long love affair with fashion.

From Susan, I bought, a white fox fur coat

my boss pronounced “Vegas” and a Speedy 35 that impressed even her. When I told her I scored it for $45, I had the satisfaction of seeing her jaw drop to the ground.

Years later, I’m still on the hunt. I am unable to go travel without visiting at least ONE designer consignment store while at that particular destination. Sometimes, that includes Goodwill or Salvation Army shops, as in the one in San Francisco, where an acquaintance of one of my AAU students found a Chanel leather and gold chain belt for $8. When I dropped in, I found some vintage Monet clip earrings, which I happily scooped up, but no Chanel.

My most recent score is a vintage [I’m guessing circa 1955 turquoise evening gown laden-down with pearl embroidery with a matching sleeveless coat. Both are floor length and I am facing one of my biggest fashion challenges ever and would love any feedback from you, my friends and readers.

So far, I've been piecing it together with a little help from my friends: B. Michael, Dawn Sheppard and Kathy of Dawn's Vintage Jewelry and master hair stylists, Anthony Leonard [NYC] and Erin Simmons [CT].

CHALLENGE: I’ve decided to wear only the dress, which is a size 12. I am a size zero or two, but that’s by today’s standards. Standing 5’5” tall, I’m dwarfed by the gown which weights-in at around 10 lbs.

My friend, couture designer, B. Michael, forbade me to cut the dress. His suggestion is an easy one and brilliant. I’ll sew-in two sets of ribbons, one just below the breastbone, and one, above the waist. Once tied, the dress will be anchored onto me. The effect will be that of a tunic rather than a fitted gown, but I’m thrilled to be able to actually WEAR the dress to the black tie New Year’s Eve Party I bought it for.

SECRET ADDRESS, revealed – I first spotted this treasure at the end of the summer at McGeorgi’s Antiques & Consignments when I was there looking for a desk lamp. I was drawn by the color but passed, as I had nothing to wear it to.

Once my brilliant Improv Actor friend, Pamme Jones invited us to a black tie New Year’s Eve gathering, I had my excuse to go back and buy this gown from Carl H. Georgi II, the shop’s owner. Curiously, Carl claims not to “know anything about fashion and style” but he’s got the eye, no question.

Now that I’ve acquired the dress, I’m working on the right hairstyle, which I’ll be blogging about next complete with the video of B. Michael’s suggestion on what hair to do that will modernize my vintage dress with a modern spin. He also points me in the right direction as to which shoes I should wear.

The hunt for the right shoe resumes on December 26^th. On December 28th, a visit with Anthony
at his Anthony Leonard Salon, to discuss the hair and on the 31st, Erin of Aveda Shine Salon will actually set the hair for the party 6 hours later.

The Ports pre-fall 2011 "l'heure bleue" Collection

2010-12-22T05:58:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

The Pre-Fall Collections used to be a relatively minor affair years ago. Not so anymore. These days, they get their own week in The Fashion Calendar. The most notable one this season is Fiona Cibani’s collection because in it, she proposes a number of trends that we will see in the all-important fall 2011 shows come February.
It’s helpful to get a sneak peek at the coming season’s trends and I enjoy the poetic/artsy references this house always delivers. The drama and the dreaming are part of what transform nice clothes into something else.
If putting on a new dress can make you feel as if you’re part of a Euro fantasy such as “L’Heure Bleue”, I say, “great!” That is WAY more interesting than just being presented with a dozen or so styles and no gilding of the lily. Then again though, I’m one of those who wants more from my clothes other than mere utility. If that were my only goal in dressing, I’d just go to my local tailor an ask her to whip me up a few black pant suits and call it a day.
I’d much rather buy into some romanticism, light a Cyprus Rigaud candle [Jackie O’s fave], tune into some jazz on my Mac book and pretend that I’m part of the tableau Fiona proposed.
I won’t ruin it by chopping it up, and you can read the unabridged version of the Inspirations Statement if you want to put your feet up for just a few.

If so, sit back and fantasize for 5 minutes.
Once you’re in that dreamy headspace, have a look at the images the lovely Tony Alcindor and his Team sent me as I was down South when this chic event was going on.

If you’re feeling rushed and impatient, I’ve bulleted the trends for you at the end and you can read the 1-2-3-trend summation.

Inspiration: "L'Heure Bleue"

"Just before sunrise, just after dusk, there comes a moment known as l’heure bleue; a moment when everything seems to slow down to a heartbeat and everything seems full of possibility. This season Fiona Cibani has distilled the essence of that magic hour in her stunning new collection for Ports 1961. Drawing from memories of blurred twilight and from meditations by iconic modern painters, Fiona has infused her autumn-wear with a tender richness that subtly suggests the infinite. A key inspiration was Gerhard Richter whose photo-paintings of hazy landscapes and delicate still-life often seem to melt before your eyes. This collection pairs the vision of a twentieth-century master with the intuitive elegance of a twenty-first century woman."

Trends on the Horizon for fall 2011:

• The use of unique surface treatments.
Fiona uses metallic dusted cotton and wool; “water-coated” stretch jersey, highly reflective silk and optically lustrous lace
The effect= an “almost supernatural aura”

• The use of pastels to hint “at a kind of l’heure bleue between the seasons embodying that moment when fall’s fragility breaks and tumbles into tougher winter weather”.
How it’s done – Fiona contrasts subtle shades such as Down White, Rosa Pink, Viola Powder and Cabana Blue with bolder strokes of Hunter Green, Cyan Navy and Umber Brown.
[No Black]
• The modern interpretation of classic couture techniques results in a non-literal sense of delicacy = tailoring but with the absence of classic reinforcement resulting in a softer feeling with lots of cascading fabrics
THINK: wispy ostrich feathers worked into knits,
• Pattern-work that offers exposed shoulder lines
• Pockets that vanish into the fabric that created them
• Paneled hourglass silhouettes= a new take on classic draping creates and a modern sense of femininity
It’s this last point that best defines the Ports 1961 aesthetic, and keeps me coming back to see what the Cibani sisters will propose, season after season.

To learn more about Ports1961, visit www.ports1961.com

To shop for some heaven-scented Rigaud candles, visit www.erikasplaceforgifts.com

The Duchess of Windsor aka Wallis Simpson Style, Brought to You by Carolee

2010-12-20T11:16:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

There's been so much hoopla about THE Royal Wedding slated for April 2011, that I'm "over it" before the actual event has actually taken place. On the bright side though, I'm thrilled that it's helped to bring additional interest to far more interesting Royal Fashion icons, such as the one I'm taking on today - Wallis Simpson, also known as The Duchess of Windsor. Like Kate Middleton, Wallis was another "commoner" who married way "above her station".

There are several books in my shopping cart at www.amazon.com including The Duchess of Windsor, the Secret Life, and the rather sinister-sounding The Darkness of Wallis Simpson,
by Rose Tremain.

Here's a woman I want to know more about, and whatever I discover after reading these books, I still love the look!

An email from Wilmot Communications hit my inbox, telling me about Carolee's "Style Icon" Collection. It's right down my alley, and the timing couldn't have been more perfect.
With Julia Cushman from PWC's office, hooked me up with Carolee’s head designer Heather Williams who answered some of my most pressing questions about this Fashion Icon and helped to dissect her style. Better still, Heather chose two key pieces in the Carolee collection that answer the question I always have: “How do I get the look?”

Below, Heather shares her accessorizing know-how with TheFE.

The Fashion Examiner: Describe the Wallis Simpson look. After cruising the Internet briefly to refresh, it seems quite understated. I seem to remember that she was fond of pins....?

Heather Williams: The key to the Duchess' look is elegant simplicity. She wore the finest couture dresses, with a ladylike refinement that provided a simple and polished background for her exquisite jewelry. In fact, she was known to have dresses designed simply to show off a piece of jewelry. A woman today may not be able to afford the Duchess' designer dresses, but she has a wealth of well-tailored and refined silhouettes that are currently the trend in fashion.

TheFE: How important was jewelry to her look? What are the key pieces one must have to "do Wallis.”

Heather Williams: The Duchess' jewelry is legendary, and that's where she had a touch of flamboyance. She loved pins, particularly those with animal themes. Her colorful flamingo pin is perhaps her most famous piece, along with her beloved panther pin.

She often wore pearls
as well, which of course are the hallmark of the ladylike look she embodied. All of these items are lovingly recreated in Carolee's Style Icons collection for today's Duchess-inspired woman to enjoy.

Most of the Duchess' jewelry had a story, as it was given to her by the Duke to mark special occasions in their life together. Her famous jeweled cross bracelet, which she wore on her wedding day, is perhaps the best example. Each cross is engraved with the date of a special event that symbolized the love and devotion she enjoyed from the Duke. Again, Carolee makes a beautiful re-creation of this bracelet for everyone to enjoy.

In short, any woman who wants to emulate the elegant look of the Duchess can easily do so by choosing well-tailored feminine looks in fashion, being extremely well groomed and polished and choosing lookalikes of the Duchess' own favorite jewelry from Carolee.

TheFE: Would you please put together 1 or even 2 Wallis looks and how to get them using Carolee?

Must-have Item #1: The Carolee Flamingo pin

Must-have Item #2: The Carolee Charm bracelet

Both give you a little bit of that Royal 'je ne sais quois' Wallis had in spades.

The flamingo pin is $75, the charm bracelet, $150. For more information, visit the website or call 1-800-227-6533 & Select Option 1.

Pictoral of the Week: Orlando, NYC, CT

2010-12-19T19:05:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

This week included time at the Orlando airport, where we saw a Christmas Tree that rivals the one in Rock Center, followed by time in the CT country home office and a visit to McGeorgie's Antiques in Newtown, CT, where Carl let me have the two piece turquoise silk an pearl embroidery creation of my dreams for $50! I'll be talking about that some more later next week in "the Hunt", and will wear it to a New Year's Eve Black Tie in the country.
After recovering from airplanes and hotel bar food, I got my crazy-fun day in NYC, which included lunch with the Duckies
down in MeatPacking, trolling through Chelsea,
and being dropped in the fantasyland aka Camilla Dietz Bergeron’s office.
Camilla’s “office” is what I love about the fashion world. On the outside, it’s an imposing white façade on Madison Avenue, but the inside is the real treat. It's like the NYC clubs I loved in the late eighties - you had to know where they were and once you were in, it was a whole world of its own. Once upstairs at C.D.B., after getting out of an old time, rather scary Parisian style cage lift, you’re transported to a gracious home, with thick carpets, shiny glass cases, fine Estate jewelry everywhere, and best of all, Camilla, Gus and the rest of the staff’s unerring Southern Hospitality.
Today, some pics that best represent the week, and a peek into Camilla’s world.

Tomorrow, my chat with Camilla about a very special collection of unique pieces she has by Aldo Cipullo, complete with a mini history lesson, courtesy of Camilla herself.
I'll give you a teaser - a little-known fact: Cartier takes the credit for inventing the iconic "Love Bracelet", but it was actually Aldo Cipullu's who created it for them in 1969. When you study the pieces [sneak peek here] and in tomorrow's video, you'll notice his signature look is evident in the pieces in Camilla's collection.

Duracell is using people power to illuminate the 2011 numerals in Times Square on New Year's Eve.

2010-12-17T05:22:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Today, I verbalized what’s been running through my mind for a while now. I was at the Duckies’ downtown studio, gabbing before lunch with Daniel as Steven continued to sketch and color-in designs for the spring 2012 collection? The Duckies [and their shows] are all about the unexpected and that’s FUN. Turning to Daniel, I got up the nerve to just say it. “ It’s bratty, but I don’t want to write about things unless they’re fun.” To my relief, Daniel smiled and replied, “look at we do”.

Bingo. That sense of fun and play comes-through in their designs and in every show of theirs I can remember.
This brings me to events. My literary agent, Laura Wood of Fine Print Lit mused over cocktails at the Algonquin, “ You could go to an event every day in NYC if you work in the fashion business and live here, and drink and eat for free, at least five days a week.”

We laughed, because after a point, an event is no longer an “event” if they’re in such high supply. "Shouldn't there be a vetting system?" as Steven posited for shows [and events] for that matter?
Driving home, I remembered my friend Jono Waks’ event – one of those I missed because I was out of town. It was silly but it sounded like silly fun, something I’d want to go see unlike yet another store opening. The “this” was a kooky eco-socialite-fashion -kitsch event that I kind of wished I’d managed to get over to in person.

Like the good publicist he is, Jono laid it all out in journalistic format: Who, What, When, Where, Why format. LOVE. If only all publicists would do this.
Here’s the scoop of a silly event that made me giggle and put me in the “Holiday spirit”.
Event Title: GREEN (ENERGY) IS THE COLOUR OF THE SEASON!   
WHEN: Thursday, December 9, 2010   

WHERE: The Duracell Mobile Smart Power Lab will pop-up @ Gansevoort Plaza, Meatpacking District, NYC.   

WHO:   The Meat Packing District & Duracell bring the fashion community together to promote re-chargeable energy as a fashionable alternative.

  DONATING THEIR ENERGY:   Carson Kressley, (Fashionista)  Robert Verdi, (Fashionista)  Tinsley Mortimer, (Fashionista)  Charlotte Ronson (Designer)  Joey Wolffer (Stylist/ The StyleLiner),  Jussara Lee (Designer)  Mazdack Rassi (Milk Studios),  Jean Pigozzi (Owner, LimoLand store),  Eric Goldstein (Owner, The Jean Shop)  Charles Nolan (Designer)   

WHAT:   Duracell is using people power to illuminate the 2011 numerals in Times Square on New Year's Eve. New Yorkers and tourists alike have the chance to literally help power the 2011 numerals by visiting one of two Duracell Smart Power Lab locations, hopping aboard a Power Rover and pedaling. With each push of the pedal, human energy is captured, converted into usable power, and then routed and stored at Duracell Battery Centers. The journey ends at One Times Square. The stored power will light up the 2011 numerals as the New Year's Eve Ball drops and the clock strikes midnight.   
The “WHAT” is an update to a question I always idly wondered about while watching the ball drop, year after year. 'Just how much electricity did it take to get that disco ball fired up and going?'
After a little research, I happened on a write-up in www.thedailygreen.com.
As of January 1, 2008, in honor of its 100th birthday, the ball got with the times and became more energy efficient. The newer better ball was lit with close to 10,000 LED bulbs (light-emitting diode) the most energy efficient bulb on the market. According to The Los Angeles Times, “The ball used only as much energy as about 10 toasters.” Enough with the past. That was good, but this is better as in it’s even greener.

HOW [it works]:
 The Duracell Power Rovers utilize rotary generator technology. As consumers pedal, energy is captured inside the power rover. The amount of energy captured is determined by the power and speed of the cycling.   Duracell's capture and storage system saves the energy generated while pedaling and converts it to stored power as it travels from the Duracell Smart Power Lab to the Duracell Battery Centers.

The stored power will light up the 2011 numerals as the New Year's Eve Ball drops and the clock strikes 12.

WHY [it matters] DURACELL is part of the Procter & Gamble Company [NYSE:PG], and it’s heartening to see that a big gun like this is getting behind the Green movement.

While I won’t be in T.S. this year, I’ll definitely be watching, on the huge flat screen TV at my gal pal, Pamme’s house, wearing a vintage Scaazi-ish creation I’m dashing over to scoop up at McGeorgie’s, in Newtown, CT this weekend – if it’s still there.

(Photo/Stuart Ramson)courtesy of Jono Productions

Image of invitations, from www.wallpaper.com

SpotLight: Mary Alice Stephenson -Style Expert and Celebrity Stylist

2010-12-14T14:42:00.001-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

To outsiders, Fashion has the bad rap of being an industry rife with snotty anorexics who are heavy on drama and who could use a little dose of nice. That happens to be untrue and I'm devoting a series of Q&A's to dispel that notion, which starting next week run on Mondays. Every Monday, I'll be Spotlighting a fashionista who is talented and personable.

First up to kick-off the series - Mary Alice Stephenson, Style Expert and Celebrity Stylist. We met years ago, when she was an Assistant Editor at Allure Magazine. She was one of the nicest people who walked into the Michael Kors showroom I worked in and most definitely not "flaky"in any way shape or form. I first noticed her because she looked like a model [height and face]. After talking to her, I picked-up on her irreverent sense of humor about everything [self-included] and her razor sharp eye for fashion. She had me laughing five minutes into what would have otherwise have been a routine ho-hum market appointment.

She worked with some of the coolest photographer in the business: Matthew Rolston, Peter Lindbergh, and Richard Burbridge, trained under styling legend Polly Mellon's watchful eye while at Allure, and been a fashion editor at Vogue, Marie Claire, and currently, Harper's Bazaar. On the commercial side of the business, here's just a partial listing:

-MAC Cosmetics,

-Swarovski,

-Saks Fifth Avenue,

-Mastercard

-Calvin Klein

- Victoria’s Secret Beauty

-Talbots

-Old Navy.

M.A. is a concept person who has the knack of being able to be an "incisive yet approachable personality", meaning you can count on her to tell you the truth, but in a nice way."While searching for truth in fashion on the Tube, you may have caught her on any of the following: MTV, VH1, ABC’s Good Morning America, CBS’ Early Show, Fox News, Entertainment Tonight, Extra, E!,The Style Channel - the list goes on.

It's this combination of editorial and commercial work in the fashion world topped with lots of experience as a top celebrity stylist that gives her real street cred.

The list of stars Mary Alice has styled reads like a "Who's Who" of Hollywood.

On the List:

-Jennifer Lopez

-Sarah Jessica Parker

-Halle Berry, Beyonce

-Renee Zellweger

-Drew Barrymore

-Nicole Kidman

-Cate Blanchet

-Scarlett Johansson

-Jennifer Aniston

The hardest and funnest part of putting this post together was deciding which images to run.

There are so many that they may spill over into their own photo pictorial, which I've got scheduled for the weekends.

I was impressed at the work portfolio she's put together in the last decade [How could I not?] and recently got to ask a few questions as she sped home in a taxi.

As we were crunched for time, I focused on the recent "I Remain You Desire" Photo Exhibit Party, staring herself, supermodel Lindsey Wixson and photographer Gabrielle Revere.

Gabrielle Revere, like Mary Alice, works in the celebrity and fashion worlds. She shoots for clients such as Sony Music, Entertainment Weekly, New York Magazineand Life.

Mazdack Rassi is referred to as "the Milk Man" by industry insiders, appropriately so, as he's the founder of the 80,000sq. ft. studio in NYC's Meatpacking District that's the go-to place for fashion editorial shoots.

TheFE: What was special about this particular party? There are so many.... You said earlier that it was a more intimate gathering?

M.A: The timing, location and who was involved in it. It was during Fashion Week and Sotheby's understands how fashion permeates pop culture.

What's always amazed me about Mary Alice is that she has the knack for speaking really quickly yet so clearly that you don't miss a word. She also always has a huge smile on her face and engages - nothing phony hear. Talent aside, this is why I like her so much.

I’ve worked with Gabrielle in the past, think she’s talented and Lindsey’s a star. I think it was smart of Sotheby’s to have these little intimate soirees – it was sweet, it was good. I’d love to do a series on this. In the past, Sotheby's have had great exhibitions such as [the one on] Resurrection, the Vintage store.

Lindsey is ranked #12 of the top 50 models according to www.models.comand has representation in NYC [Marilyn Mgmt], London [Storm] and LA [Vision LA]. In addition to all of her editorial work, she walks just about every show in the bi-annual fashion week trifekta, most notably Miu Miu, Balenciaga, and Louis Vuitton - in Paris, New York - Jason Wu and Marc Jacobs, Milano- Iceberg and Missoni. Although this is an impressive lineup by any standards, editorial "stars" tend to have the life expectancy of a fruit fly. I wanted to know if Lindsey was different.

TheFE: Before I flipped through your electronic press kit, I knew you'd worked with pretty much everyone in the world of fashion and celebrity. I'm still a die-hard fan of the original "Supers" - Linda E., Christy T., Naomi, Kate.
[From Left: Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Polly Mellon, Christy Turlington]
Most girls [models] just don't stand out like these larger than life stars. What's special about Lindsey? These photos Gabrielle shot of her?

M.A: Lindsey is really current, kind of this girl who’s on the cusp of becoming a supermodel and yet on the cusp of becoming a woman. She still very much looks like a kooky little girl within the Glamazon, a Lolita.

Gabrielle has so much exuberance and personality and she gets that from her subjects. It was just about Lindsey being Lindsey and you get about whom she is.

Her imperfections [are what] make her perfect.

TheFE: Thanks for squeezing this in - in a car ride, no less!

Photography Credits

Exhibit Photos, Gabrielle Revere

Party Event Photos, Andrew Rothschild

Photos from Mary Alice's Portfolio, MICHAEL FLUTIE’S OFFICE

TALENT BRAND MANAGEMENT

In Search of Fashion and Holiday Gifts at the Orlando Airport

2010-12-13T02:53:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Yesterday, my plan to plop down in front of the fireplace, safely back home and watch Valley of the Dolls, one of my favorite movies of all time blew-up in my face. I’d planned it all - a glass of X-Rated Fusion Liqueur on chipped ice next to me, “Simply Vera” moon boot slippers on my feet, and MacBook on my lap. I looked forward to studying the hair, makeup and clothes from an era that produced some of our most celebrated fashion icons: Marilyn, Audrey, Jackie and Grace.

My plan was as they say in the world of horseracing – “scratched” the customer service rep informed me that all flights to the New York area were cancelled for the day. The first flight we could get out of Orland was over 24 hours later.

I dumped the bags at the airport Hyatt and inspired by the giant Xmas Tree by their elevator bank, decided to see if I could find some fashion at the airport. Ho ho – No. I wasn’t feeling the jingle bell spirit - yet.

There wasn’t anyone fashionable who came across my path – no models or celebs dashing through chased by, but I doubt they’d be in Orlando anyhow.

That left the airport stores. The usual suspects were there – Borders, L’Occitane de Provence, Brookstone, Erwin Pearl, and LUSH. The time – 3p.m., the foot traffic light medium in the shops, traffic at the TSA checkpoints, horrid.

At Borders, I checked out Keith Richard's new book, Life. The few pages I read were entertaining and sounded as if he were really telling his story, as opposed to dumping it on his ghostwriter to do all the work, There are some great family pics and my favorite – Keith strumming his guitar in his CT home. The book qualifies as fashionable because Keith is a Rock God who has great personal style, and he’s married to Patti Hansen,

one of the most important models to come out of the Seventies. She was one of the blondes who defined the “Healthy All-American Girl”, most notably romping at the beach and filling out her Calvins.

Over at Erwin Pearl, I was excited to find out that they’re now offering titanium jewelry for women. According to the very patient saleslady, “titanium is what the space shuttle is made of” ie: bang it around as much as you will safe in the knowledge nothing will happen to your jewelry.

Some of the silver and cubic zirconium pieces and titanium and zirconium pieces looked very similar to Tiffany designs. The saleswoman informed us that Mr. Pearl designs for Tiffany and because he does, he is free to use his designs for his own line. Yes, you can buy the classic Tiffany 6 prong engagement ring at his shop in sterling silver with a
1-carat cubic zirconium for $160. My pick : the faux canary yellow cushion cut ring flanked by two cubic z. trillions, set in sterling, $250.

Twenty minutes later, we hit pay dirt at Brookstone. What’s not to like? Their [“Tote To Go” $19.95]
looks very much like the original Longchamps one [@$125] for dragging all that extra stuff you bought while knocking out some Xmas shopping due to delays.

Best though was the Brookstone MAX percussion massager wand $99.95. The two-minute demos we gave each other worked away the shoulder muscle knots thanks to the pulsing acupressure node. On the way out, we stopped to squeeze the mini Tempur-Pedic pillow stylishly piped in Robin’s egg blue and considered splurging on one as well as a pair of black Tempur-Pedic slippers for $49.95. They’ve got a nice thick sole that you could get away with on days you’re doing errands in a ball cap and sunglasses and your feet need a break from the party heels you wore the night before.

Our last stop was at LUSH.
The colorful gift boxes in the back of the store beckoned. Some people find it awkward to gift soap, but I say, “nonsense!” when they look and smell as good as these. “No” to the jelly soap – too much of a similarity to jell-o for me, but everything else in there is a thumbs up. I bought a ¼ pound of the blood orange colored “Karma” soap [$7.95 for ¼ lb.] in hopes that it would bring us some lucky travel Karma. Even if it doesn’t work, I’ll smell delicious.

Festive Holiday Beauty: Skin Prep With Bioelements and Beauty with MAC’s Tartan Tale Collection

2010-12-10T20:27:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

In addition to my new Miriam Haskell Jewelry obsession, I’ve been jonesing for the look model Raquele Zimmermann sported in the December issue of Vogue. Raquele is one of today's biggest editorial stars, but until this shoot, styled by one of my favorite stylists, Camilla Nickerson, I didn't really pay her much attention. In it, she’s so bloody glamorous that I compulsively ripped out two of the pages and put one in my Louis V tote and tack the other one up on my home office mood board. I started studying it in great detail and approached it one step at a time. While I’m not going to be able swing the fabulous Tom Ford blouse or Jean Harlow-inspired Marc Jacobs suit, I don’t really mind. It’s the beauty look that’s got me over the rails.
Step one – I decide to dye my hair red, really red. As I venture into the beauty supply store I frequent every few months, I try to put a handle on the color I’m going for.
Me: Mmm, it’s flame, well, a deep flame.
Anne: Show me the picture, honey.
[I do and she nods approvingly]. “Yeah, you can do this, but it will fry your hair a good bit.”
I don’t care. She smiles knowingly and hands me the color remover packet, 20 Volume peroxide and the “brunette red” toner that I need.
A few days later, I’m back, because my efforts had resulted in a rose wine hue that wasn’t cutting it. Anne and Maria went to work and dumped some more color in to blast it to that deep "Raquele red" I was fixated on achieving.
That accomplished, I’m almost ready to do the makeup but postponed a visit to the MAC counter until my appointment with Isabelle V., at Beauty 360. Over the past 6 months, on Isabelle’s advice, I’ve been slowly adding a few BioElements products to my daily skincare regimen. Everything I’ve used to this point with the exception of the lash growth formula has been more than satisfactory. I was scheduled for a mini BioElements facial with Krystale, the visiting cosmetician from Boston. in hopes of finding something that would add the moisture that always leaves me come early November.
There’s no point in putting on killer makeup on a skin that is so dry that it won’t hold the product.
Krystale gave me some company background as she peformed enzyme exfoliation on my face. Bioelements was founded in 1991 by Barbara Salomone, one of the first ever licensed aestheticians in the USA. "It's a serious skincare line favored by beauty professionals" she says as she paints the enzyme on my face. The enzyme extracts in the enzyme exfoliator eat up the protein in the dead skin. Once that top layer is gone, your skin feels smoother and can more readily absorb rich creams you apply after the toner. After Krystale explained that the toner boosts the efficiency of the moisturizer, I decided to stop skipping that step.
The following products "The triple moisture treat" gave my skin a much needed moisture drink:

1. B.E. Crucial Moisture
2 B. E. SPF 50
3. B.E. Recovery Serum

I opted for their most hydrating product, “Really Rich Moisture”, which leaves my skin feeling dewy. It's just what I needed and is the RX for skin that's tired after too much travel.
Two days later, I‘m 6oo miles away, visiting my former college campus and a good writer gal pal, T, who’s in town for a few weeks to work on a PR project. The night we arrive, we decide that the Vogue look requires bleaching-out my eyebrows. That accomplished, I’m finally ready for a trip to the MAC Cosmetics counter to check-out the limited edition “Tartan Tale” collection
and to pick-up the right colors to achieve my Vogue look.

The MAC stylist at the Nordstrom’s tells me that my target look “is very easy”. For once, this is actually true. I say “for once” because years ago, as US Beauty Director of Lucire Magazine, beauty stars such as Tom Pecheux, would tell me “how simple” an obviously intricate makeup look was to recreate [for him].
In this case, it actually WAS easy. All that was required were a few items from the “Tartan Tale” collection.
I left with “Golden Crown” eye shadow.
As she worked on my face, I had time to closely inspect the Tartan Tale ad in which the model's hair was a lighter shade of red. I decided I wasn’t done – not yet. My next move – an appointment with Anthony Palmermo of the Anthony Leonard Salon in NYC next Wednesday, to lighten my hair up some more. Once that’s done, I hope to wear it with a hunter green taran top, just like the model in the ad. Today, I'll be hitting the best fashion designer consignment shops in the Orlando area for just such a piece. With luck, I'll be showing you my find next Wednesday in my weekly "The Hunt" post.

The search begins today, at 2p.m. until the shops close down.

The Sotheby’s Press Preview of the December 2010 “Magnificent Jewels” Auction

2010-12-09T18:24:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY
Sotheby’s Gary Schuler and the GIA’s Thomas M. Moses Romance the Stone

We attended a breakfast late last week at Sotheby’s NYC, to preview the incomparable gems that would be up for sale December 9th.
The viewing and presentation was a visual A-list experience. We walked into the airy white room filled with sparkling glass cases housing an Ali Baba’s cavern of spectacular jewelry from the Estate of William B. Dietrich. In his lifetime, Mr. Dietrich indulged his eclectic side and collected a diverse collection of treasures, including Old Masters, Ceramics, Americana, and of course, this incredible gem collection. During his 25 years as the President of the William B. Dietrich Foundation, he funded the restoration and preservation of art and architectural treasures in his native Philadelphia. One notable project was the structural restoration and roof repair of Mount Pleasant (built 1762-1765), a National Historic Landmark building in 2004.

Stepping into the exhibit space, a bit bleary eyed, my eyes cleared when I spotted the super sized “big whites” [diamonds], sapphire and diamond rings, ruby and diamond rings in the case next to the coffee table. For once, I ignored the coffee and concentrated on the matter and hand, resulting in my fogging up the outside of the jewelry case until the lovely curator came over and asked me if I wanted to inspect and try anything on. Did I want to get closer?? This was like letting a heroin junkie loose in the backroom in “American Gangster” and telling them to fill up their garbage bag with as much powder as they could carry.

The proceeds of the December 9 sale will go to benefit the Foundation and to continue Mr. Dietrich’s work. Any or all of these sparklers can be yours. “Magnificent Jewels, sale NO8687”is up for sale ON THURSDAY, DECEMBER 9, IN 3 BIDDING SESSIONS:
10:45a.m., 2:00p.m., and 6:00p.m.

As I jokingly told friend, author/documentary film-maker Roger Manley, “Not to worry, if you can’t make it in person, you can participate via BID now and try some Live Online bidding."
Open another window on your computer and go to: sothebys.com/bidnow.

Roger, the author of a seriously entertaining book, Weird Carolinas, is married to the stylish Theadora Brack, Paris Editor of www.eurocheapo.com. Theadora is among other things, a serious collector. She’s got a mouth-watering collection of rare rings she finds while scouring the flea markets near their home in Montmartre. I’d love to see her add a brooch to her collection of one of -a -kind pieces. My candidate is #17: the Louis Comfort Tiffany, 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Opal, Sapphire, and Garnet Brooch, circa 1920. The reserve is set at US$25,000-35,000.

The press presentation was a dialogue between Sotheby’s Gary Schuler, and the GIA’s Thomas L. Moses, in which they extolled the virtues of some key pieces they’d selected to showcase for their informal presentation. The event was co-sponsored by Sotheby’s, the GIA and Architectural Digest. Each man is a key player in his respective place of work. Mr. Schuler is Senior Vice President and Director of Jewelry Department. He is also a skilled auctioneer Mr. Moses is one of the world’s top gemologists. He began his career at the GIA in the seventies testing pearls with x-rays to determine their authenticity. Mr. Moses provided interesting technical information, and spoke very specifically about just exactly what makes a “magnificent jewel” magnificent.
When Gary spoke, I finally understood what the phrase “romancing the stone” really means.

When he spoke he had my complete and undivided attention. Friend, R Scott French, Editor in Chief of www.TheFashionList.com whispered, “Gary is one of the best auctioneers in the world. You should see him in action.” After watching and listening for 3 minutes, I had do doubt he was right. Gary engaged the weary crowd of editors, making us all forget about the New York cold and the long post-Holiday week. Gary lovingly turned a dazzling pear diamond ring
over in his fingers and rhapsodized about its qualities. The GIA stats were all in place, of course, but the real selling point takes place when the piece of jewelry hits you on an emotional level.

All eyes were on Gary when he spoke, no one got up to grab one of the little breakfast petit fours or yet another cup of coffee. Everyone in the audience was too busy mentally “collecting” one of these pieces for their own personal fantasy “if I win Lotto” collection. Many of us in the audience were collectors.

Just a week earlier, while attending an oval table panel “Collecting: Tales of Obsession”, I came to an epiphany – I too, like the luminaries on that panel, am a collector. In my case, as panelist Iris Apfel shared, “it’s the thrill of the hunt”. My little corner encompasses vintage Prada and Miu Miu shoes [the stranger the better], Louis Vuitton vintage brown monogrammed handbags [only those], 1920’s Art Deco white gold filigree rings, and most recently, Miriam Haskell Jewelry.

By any standards, I’m a guppie-sized collector, but I now have a sense of identity about my little obsessions now that I’ve discovered that I am most definitely not alone. It’s hard to ask for better company than Iris and Carolyn Roehm. Collections such as Mr. Dietrich’s are about dreaming, fantasizing and thinking big.

Gary has definitely kissed the Blarney Stone at least once and his skill combined that rare talent of down-home friendly manner you don’t usually see North of the Mason-Dixon line combined with encyclopedic knowledge about the jewelry for sale was a beautiful thing to behold. In the 20 minutes I sat and listened, I felt like I was traveling with the A-List pack of Great White Collector sharks that will doubtlessly be bidding and taking home some of these treasures.

I won't be buying any of these jewels, but I did get to walk away with a few pounds of glossy literature which I look forward to perusing on lazy winter Sunday afternoons in front of the fire.
Among these is the catalogue, which is really more of a coffee table book than a mere catalogue. The Sotheby’s catalogue is in itself “magnificent”, like an Art Basel Catalogue – too scrumptious to throw away. The 2005 Art Basel catalogue and now the “Magnificent Jewels” catalogue have found a home amongst my cherished coffee table books in the Home Office bookshelf.

Robert Verdi's Celebrity 2010 Gift Guide

2010-12-07T21:46:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

Okay, I was happy with my 1st Annual FE Gift Guide, but I got my vicarious celebrity fix in when I checked-out Robert Verdi's 2010 Gift Guide. Robert is a television personality, celebrity stylist, and general go-to guy of good taste. He's also one of my most fabulous fashion acquaintances, whom I first met years ago at Mercedes Benz Miami Fashion Week Swim. At that time, he was the spokesperson for Sunglass Hut. Watching Robert working alternating pairs of Pradas, Guccis and Dolce frames gave me a whole new view on how a simple pair of sunnies could change your entire look. After that, I don't have any trouble understanding why women will happily drop upwards of $350 for a pair of Chanel or Prada frames.

Robert's one of the celebrity stylists who actually deserves the title. The names in his A-list orbit who he shares with us in his private Holiday gifting list video include: The Jolie-Pitts, Tina Fey, Robert Pattinson, Fergie, Beyonce, and more of that ilk. When you're dealing with that crowd, you'd BETTER have some pretty great ideas. These A-listers have EVERYTHING, but Robert's come-up with the just-right gets for each and every one of them.

Small surprise there. Robert's CV includes co-creating and hosting Full Frontal Fashion,co-hosting Surprise by Design, with co-host, Rebecca Cole, where they redesigned a room/exterior space at someone’s home on a $2,500 budget, in only one day. [The show became the Discovery Channel’s highest rated daytime show.] Add to that, his gigs hosting Fashion Police, and styling Desperate Housewives star Eva Longoria Parker, as well as designing two of her Los Angeles, California homes.
That's just the tip of the iceberg and if this has served to whet your appetite,visit www.luxelaboratory.com.

In the meantime, don't waste any more time and check-out Robert's entertaining video and find-out all about who's getting what. Robert's a great showman and in this video he bears a bit of a resemblance to Mike Meyers, one of my favorite comedians.

A few teasers: Koolaburra "Victoria boots"

for Fergie [love!], a cool Timex for Robert Pattinson [a great watch does NOT have to be expensive-o], and my personal favorite, a bottle of Perrier-Jouet champagne for William and "Kate the Commoner". It's a great bottle of bubbly with the added bonus of beautiful white flowers [painted on the bottle] that will never die on you.
Cheers!

!

The International Best Dressed List - Hall of Fame’s Paul Wilmot: How to be a “Best-Dressed”

2010-12-05T12:10:00.000-05:00

TEXT, VIVIAN KELLY

I was interviewing Paul Wilmot in his Calvin Klein-esque chic all white office to get some insight into how he’s come to be known as “Fashion Pr’s spin master” when I remembered that he was on the International Best Dressed List. As he spoke, steepling his well-manicured hands, I admired his pristine cuffs and heavy gold statement watch. This very well dressed Fashion PR guru looked bandbox perfect, despite the fact that he had been at work for 10 hours before we started chatting. That Monday, he’d kicked off yet another power day with a GMA [Good Morning America] interview around 7a.m., and here we were, around 5:00p.m., with the sun starting to set. Paul didn’t look at all tired and he sat with not a blonde hair out of place or a single wrinkle in his white cotton shirt. He made the International Best Dressed List in 1993, and figuratively sits alongside other fashion greats such as the Countess Mona Von Bismark, Eliza Bolen, Cece Cord, Cosmina Von Bulow Pavoncelli, Tom Wolfe, and Michael York.
True, it’s easy to dress in expensive clothes if you have the access and the budget, but that in itself is akin to baking bread and forgetting to put the yeast in. Like the doomed bread, your look will fall flat because it’s missing a key ingredient – STYLE.
So, just what does that mean? Fashion Designer, Yigal Azrouel, referred to it backstage during NYFW when he spoke of the element of self-confidence and how essential that was when you are wearing whatever it is you put on, even if it was just a humble “I Love NY” tee.
Maybe the old-fashioned word for this concept is “carriage” and Paul has that in spades. Before I read that he was a “Best-Dressed”, I remember all the times I’d seen him at Fashion events and noticed him first, and then the clothes as opposed to some of the colorful combinations the Japanese editors put together and display like peacocks, while at NYFW. That, to me, is costume, whereas Paul’s look is about easy yet traditional elegance.

There hasn’t been a single occasion in which Paul didn’t look “right”, whether it was in a beautiful suit [I’m guessing, Prada}, at client Prabal Gurung’s presentation, or a black ski jacket, as pre-show at Christian Siriano, also a client. The old saw, “birds of a feather flock together” applies here. Paul was a close personal friend
to some of the most stylish women on the planet – Nan Kempner, and C.Z. Guest. While in their company, he says he “observed” and over the years learned a thing or two from these impeccable ladies.
Being impeccable does not mean looking over-coiffed or lacquered into place, or old fashioned, for that matter. Traditional elegance is something that is always stylish, and each generation of “best-dressers” just add their unique take on it, which modernizes the look. Not to digress too much, I must mention the wonderful space I visited last Monday at 524 Broadway. We’d driven in from the country to attend a roundtable discussion there. I attended because my friend, John Tiffany had invited me and I’d have the opportunity to maybe meet two other “Best Dresseds” Iris Apfel and Carolyn Roehm. The New tradionalists space, I randomly thought to myself, “is so Paul”. The definition in the elegant take-home catalogue said it best. Their design firm is “influenced by classic silhouettes, objects, history, and you. We design for today’s eclectic personality. We think traditional can be cool.”
Paul thinks so too, as he reminisced fondly about Nan
and her over-the-top travel luggage, and super outsize personality. While he was speaking, I felt a little tug at my heart, wishing I’d had the fortune to have also have spent some time with this living life to the fullest woman.
As Paul spoke of Nan, he cited consistent details as a key part of the style equation. In Nan’s case, one of these consistent details was the large diamond ring she always wore on her pinkie ring.
A NAN ANECDOTE
“We were sharing a suite at the Crillon in Paris and this thing arrives. You would’ve thought it was a refrigerator, but it was a blouse and a skirt. It took up a whole closet in the Crillon.”

To read the rest of the article, ‘From the Well-Stuffed Closets of Mrs. Thomas L. Kempner", visit www.nymag.com

Below, some of the tips he’s gleaned over the years that helped put him make The List.
Some of these may sound rather obvious, but admit it, when you see a beautiful woman dressed to the nines and spot cracking toe nail polish, I have the same reaction Eddie Murphy did in the 1988 flick, ‘Coming To America’. His love interest, the perfect woman, had feet that hadn’t seen a pedicure in months, complete with dark chipping polish EEEK!!! Run!

PAUL’S TIPS ON HOW TO BE ON YOUR OWN BEST DRESSED LIST
*Invest in a great watch. He’s had his gold Rolex since the eighties.
*Maintain Your Investments: get those shoes shined; buy wooden forms for your shoes and boots. Ladies, the same goes for your handbags. No scuffs allowed!
* Make a statement with a consistent item [Like Nan did with her diamond pinkie ring]: Paul collects gold cufflinks that pop on his

heavily black and white color palette.
* Don’t Ever Forget Grooming – it all counts. Being well maintained includes: regular haircuts, mani and pedi, proper skincare.
In case you’re reading over this list and start thinking, ‘I don’t have time to do all this, and why got through all of this trouble?’ think about what Cybill Sheppard so famously stated for L’Oreal – “Because I’m Worth It”.

To read more about the International Best Dressed List and its creator, Eleanor Lambert, visit www.empressoffashion.blogspot.com